5r55s Auto Trans Issue. Resolved!

[KIMMER]

Well, got the auto swap done on my car but have an issue with a noise coming from the trans area and some strange symptoms. At first we thought it was the converter, so I got a circle D 3000 stall multi-disc for it and I still have the same issues. Trans makes a lot of racket around 40mph when you start to get any kind of load on it, like going up a hill. Also, the trans is making the converter stall way higher than it is suppose to be and feels like it struggles to ever allow the converter to lock (this happens to both converters). On the dyno, it seemed like the trans or converter was slipping, but it has to be the trans due to me swapping out the converter. The only thing we did is add a hardened input shaft and I had billet servos installed at a trans shop. Anyone had these issues before or know of someone who did and what the cause was? Could the anchor nut cause this if it had fell into the trans when the shop did the servos? What about the valve body? Just trying to figure out my next step to this cursed car that is about to get traded in if I don't get it fixed soon!

Here is a vid clip of the noise, you'll have to crank your speakers. It's the rattling sound.

http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/...ew&current=photobucket-6781-1309645519601.mp4

Here is the dyno sheet and you can clearly see something isn't right when you look at the torque curve.

 

[Pumpkinfish]

What trans do you have again?

 

[KIMMER]

5r55s

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Pumpkinfish]

Honestly, I am on my 4th 5R55S and I have never had a rattle noise on any of them when I trashed them. I hope thed trans shop didn't have anything drop in when they swapped the servo's.

 

[KIMMER]

Honestly, I am on my 4th 5R55S and I have never had a rattle noise on any of them when I trashed them. I hope thed trans shop didn't have anything drop in when they swapped the servo's.

That's what i'm worried about. I'm sure if they did let an anchor nut drop in, the case is probably trashed along with other parts. I'll find out more in the next few days if we have time to pull it. I'm already tired of f'ing with this car honestly.

 

[white05gt]

You can't catch a break with your car.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Two questions:
Did the noise start after the input shaft/servos, or was it there before?
Was the input shaft put in the the correct orientation? One end is machined longer than the other.

 

[KIMMER]

Two questions:
Did the noise start after the input shaft/servos, or was it there before?
Was the input shaft put in the the correct orientation? One end is machined longer than the other.

On the first question, no ideal, I haven't ran this trans in my car before these parts were added. This was a manual to auto swap. Input shaft is in correctly, I double checked it when we took the trans back out. I'm leaning towards the billet servos/anchor nuts being the possible cause. I'm sure if the anchor nut dropped in, the trans is probably toast and the trans case. Hopefully find out soon.

 

[psfracer]

I don't know about the rattle stuff, but regards to the very high stall and the trans not wanting to lock up-----that sounds ALOT like the fluid level is way too low.

How much tranny fluid did you put in????

 

[KIMMER]

I don't know about the rattle stuff, but regards to the very high stall and the trans not wanting to lock up-----that sounds ALOT like the fluid level is way too low.

How much tranny fluid did you put in????

A LOT! LOL, I actually added the pan with a dipstick this time to make sure it was filled up. It seems like we were around 10 quarts, but i'd have to double check.

 

[psfracer]

Also, how did you verify the converter is engaging the pump properly? The converter did not make contact with the flexplate before the trans bellhousing hit the block, right?

 

[KIMMER]

Also, how did you verify the converter is engaging the pump properly? The converter did not make contact with the flexplate before the trans bellhousing hit the block, right?

Correct, had a small gap between the converter and flexplate. We're pretty baffled right now, but we're going to have to pull it out yet again and possibly tear it down.

 

[psfracer]

Yeah I guess so. If you have plenty of fluid, but its slipping alot and acting like you have a really high converter, then I think its the pump.

 

[KIMMER]

Yeah I guess so. If you have plenty of fluid, but its slipping alot and acting like you have a really high converter, then I think its the pump.

Damn, it's suppose to have a new pump in it. Another thing to look at I guess. Is there a way to verify if the pump is good or bad?

 

[retfr8flyr]

I does have a new pump, the pump only had about 500 miles on it. I'm wondering if you damaged the pump with the TCI converter. The TCI uses both sections of the flex plate, I don't know about the Circle D, if you don't get the converter lined up with the special tool it destroys the pump very quickly.



Earl

 

[KIMMER]

First converter was a PTC and doesn't use the adapter plate, but I guess anything is possible. The rattling is what makes me lean toward the anchor nut, but I have no ideal what a failing pump sounds like either. This auto stuff is pretty much new to me. I've rebuilt a few along time ago, but never really looked at how stuff worked in them. I'll have to research about the pump failing and what it sounds like or symptoms of it.

 

[retfr8flyr]

OK I thought the first converter was an TCI. It could be, as you say, that something was dropped inside during the install of the solenoids as the sound does resemble something grinding inside. It also sounds like it could be the pump from the description of the way the converter is acting. Keep us posted on the progress.



Earl

 

[AlloyGT]

When my pump went out, it didn't slip or make any noise. Just a couple of times at the track, it wouldn't go into gear unless I rev'ed it up to like 4500 rpm, then it would slam into gear. Never saw an increase in ETs, and gas mileage stayed the same. Then like 8 months later, it just suddenly wouldn't go into gear, period. Ford said the gears in the pump were binding, and replaced the pump.

 

[8306gt]

When my pump went out, it didn't slip or make any noise. Just a couple of times at the track, it wouldn't go into gear unless I rev'ed it up to like 4500 rpm, then it would slam into gear. Never saw an increase in ETs, and gas mileage stayed the same. Then like 8 months later, it just suddenly wouldn't go into gear, period. Ford said the gears in the pump were binding, and replaced the pump.

There was most likely nothing wrong with your pump, more likely however the POS $20 pressure relief valve that is inside the front pump was stuck open causing the loss of all pressure. Mine did the exact same thing and left me stranded at the track 90 miles from home. Pulled the trans, split the front pump, replaced the pressure relief valve and all is good.

To the OP if you have any burnt bands or other junk in the pan from it slipping, when you remove the trans I would highly suggest you flush the cooler thoughly and replace this valve because they stick very easily and if it does you will be pulling the trans, convertor and front pump all over again.

 

[KIMMER]

Well, hopefully we are making headway. I'm still not positive that the new converter took care of the high stall and slipping yet, because the concentration has been on the noise right now. Bill (the guy helping me out and has the lift) noticed that one hanger on the exhaust hits the trans under load. He cut it off and took it down the road and it was quiet! BUT, it came back after 4 miles, but not nearly as loud so that could still be the issue. The motor really moves around alot in the engine bay, so i'm thinking some new billet/poly motor mounts will be going in soon to help get rid of any twist. Things are looking better and should figure out more with the next few days. At rest everything had clearance, but on the lift and running, you see where clearance disappears.