Air fuel ratio up about 1 point

one eyed willy

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I've had this happen before, ended up being a exhaust leak.upstream of the wideband would suck in air as the exhaust passed by.
 

eighty6gt

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Checked codes (no CEL), had codes P0133, P1000. P0133 is probably because I experimented with an NTK oxygen sensor instead of sticking with motorcraft back when I was looking into a trim offset between banks. The pass. side was easy picking, and I left the new sensor in there. I might drop the factory sensor back in since I never resolved the offset, really. I reset the codes to see if it comes back immediately, I'm driving a few hundred miles this weekend.

Voltage at battery at idle was 15.06, at feed wire to FPDM 14.98. Cheap multi meter.

Replaced fuel filter, cleaned MAF sensor with sensor cleaner, no change.

The zeitronix tech also said the most likely culprit is a tiny pinhole exhaust leak, it can be undetectable and still affect the results. Usually I'm only 12.3:1, which is actually about .5-.7 higher than I used to see, it always takes a while to stabilize rich when you go WOT.
 

702GT

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How long since you changed the sensor, 702?

I will probably pop in a fresh sensor. Maybe a year is a decent lifespan for an aftermarket WB? The guy at zeitronix said that when they go bad, they really flop out and will get stuck or be obviously wrong. My plugs are a lot whiter on the passenger side - I wish I had put my wideband there. I will put bungs in both sides if I put long tube headers on next year.

I'm glad everyone's innovates worked well. Mine seemed accurate, I just hated never knowing if it was calibrated and I much prefer the little box I stuck behind the dash and stand alone gauge I've got going now.

It's the original wideband O2, so probably 5 years old now. Probably buy another one from Dynojet. I think a replacement is $89
 

s8v4o

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Popped off the filter, MAF wires appear clean, no excess oil anywhere in the intake tract. I'll spray the sensor with cleaner and change the fuel filter before I datalog. Hopefully it stops raining this weekend.

They can "appear" clean even with oil on them. I would just clean it anyway.

LOL I sold my piece of shit innovate to a guy with a carbed VW bug. The McDonald's of widebands! Have fun rolling around on the ground pulling the sensor for free air calibrations!

http://www.zeitronix.com/

edit: that MTX-L looks nicer than the LM-2 I got rid of. Still have to do the free air cal. Nope.

Never had a problem with my LM1. I only do a free air calibration once a year. Also the manual says you don't have to take out the sensor to do the calibration. All you have to do is let it sit overnight or about 12 hours and then take the test. I still take mine out to do it and takes me about 20 minutes.
 

eighty6gt

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Nowhere near blowing up. Duty cycle still ok. Voltage looks like what it should be. I'm not sure if it should be richer earlier, from 3000-4500. Probably.

I bet things get better when I remove and reinstall the midpipe.

Attached are the .csv's, renamed to .txt.
 
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TheKurgan

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I have the LC-1 wide band too and the original sensor did go out a couple years ago on me. The LED light would not stop flashing even after recalibrating it. I replaced it and it's been reading fine ever since.
 

eighty6gt

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Reloaded the same tune. Car is much leaner at part throttle, at idle. Driving while cold car will lean out badly on tip in. WOT ratios back to where they were. No mechanical changes. This was how the car drove last time I loaded this tune.
 

DiMora

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Any chance it's the O2 sensor?

Could be if everything else is in order.

They do go out from time to time. Have you done a calibration procedure lately? How about cleaning the maf? Basically the maf isn't reporting the correct airflow and that can be caused by a dirty maf. Seeing 14.7 in closed loop means that the o2 sensors are still within the range to trim the a/f. Have you checked the short and long term trims lately?

Edit: Is your air filter oiled? If so it's quite possible to over oil and have some of the oil get on the maf. That situation could cause exactly what you are seeing.

Bruce nailed all most my concerns...

Clean MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner - even if you thin kit is clean
Check intake tube for air leaks - a hole in a silicon couplet can make you lean
Check for any vacuum leaks (EGR lines that feed into intake as well)

What is Zeitronix...? Maybe you should get a reputable AFR gauge like a Innovate Motorsports. Has a lot better resolution also.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php

You can download the data along with the PCM data all in one shot and graph it all together.

My new Innovate (RMA'd) is working well now, but the first one was crap. I kept calling Innovate, and they kept having me re-calibrate it, cut wires, delete calibrate button, remove LED - all sorts of stuff. Total PITA and waste of my time when the LC-1 was bad all along. They finally let me RMA it and I got a new one at no charge - but it took them a couple weeks to get it back to me. The old one lost calibration every few months. The new one has been good for a while now.

LOL I sold my piece of shit innovate to a guy with a carbed VW bug. The McDonald's of widebands! Have fun rolling around on the ground pulling the sensor for free air calibrations!

http://www.zeitronix.com/



edit: that MTX-L looks nicer than the LM-2 I got rid of. Still have to do the free air cal. Nope.

You got that right. Calibration is a PITA; that's why I was cheezed every time Innovate told me to do that.

Also, the G3 wideband gauge is too bright at night, too dim in day and has no color change or brightness controls.

I was under the impression the Innovate was the wide bands of all wide bands. Super accurate and tuners love them.

Was I mis-guided?

Partially. When they work, they are great. Lots of reports on lots of sites of them failing, however.

I have the LC-1 wide band too and the original sensor did go out a couple years ago on me. The LED light would not stop flashing even after recalibrating it. I replaced it and it's been reading fine ever since.

Yup.
 

DiMora

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DiMora you're killing me here... I just bought two Innovates!!! sigh

Sorry. They *can* be good. Mine is fine now, but my first one was crap.

The good news is they stand behind it, so if it is bad, they will send you a new one.

Just do this if you have any problems: Ask for an RMA and tell them you want it repaired or replaced. Don't waste your time troubleshooting beyond a simple re-calibration. If they start asking you to cut wires and remove buttons, LED's, check grounds, etc. box it up and send it back!
 

eighty6gt

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I removed my midpipe and welded a crack that extended around the pipe at the bottom of the cat (downstream of both O2 sensors.) No leaks at the header to midpipe connection.
 

AutoXRacer

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Gerald - I jinxed myself. Mine failed tonight. I'm hoping it just needs re-calibrated.

Uuuugh.

How does it fail? And which model do you have? The MTX-L?

You are worrying me now... I am depending on these AFRs gauges to warn me about running too rich while I break-in the motor. I got one for each bank.

Not sure what to do now...
 

BruceH

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Really? Nothing has happened yet. You bought LC-1 correct?


Believe everything will be ok and save the panic. If something happens then the heavy sigh. Until then just smile.



How does it fail? And which model do you have? The MTX-L?

You are worrying me now... I am depending on these AFRs gauges to warn me about running too rich while I break-in the motor. I got one for each bank.

Not sure what to do now...
 

AutoXRacer

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Is the LC1 the model everyone is complaining about? Or are there issues with MTX-L also?
I'm feeling a little better since the above post. Sorry DiMora... lol
 

dysan

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I don't believe the issue is actually with the wideband controller but more so with the Bosch sensor. I generally replace my sensor once a year since they are stupid cheap from Autozone..I think it was $50 the last time I bought one a month or so ago.
 

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