Andy's One Car to do It All

SoundGuyDave

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Make sure that you buy several sets of center caps, so that when you spit them off going around a sweeper, you'll have handy spares. Hopefully the forcefully-ejected center cap won't bean a corner worker... ;-)

Personally, I'd argue for extended (ARP) studs before center caps!
 

Speedboosted

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Make sure that you buy several sets of center caps, so that when you spit them off going around a sweeper, you'll have handy spares. Hopefully the forcefully-ejected center cap won't bean a corner worker... ;-)

Personally, I'd argue for extended (ARP) studs before center caps!

I don't think you should ever go out there with center caps on. Traps more heat (not sure if that makes any difference in that area though) and will end up falling off and becoming a projectile. Something must of happened recently in my area because now almost every event I go to they require removal of the center caps. I never even show up with them so it's not an issue for me but interesting to think about IMO.
 

Sky Render

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The center caps are for his street wheels, which otherwise are the sex!

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk
 

modernbeat

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We've melted center caps when we forget to remove them. Don't do that unless you want a couple caps that look like Pringles potato chips as souvenirs.
 

Norm Peterson

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AaaaaAAARGH! Center caps! CENTER CAPS!

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http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_268&products_id=521

:bleh:
I know I've got a set that looks something like that . . . still in the plastic bag they shipped in. I was told at one of my first couple of track days that the organizers weren't going to hold up an event while people went hunting for ejected center caps even if they had a pretty good idea where they might have ended up. If you lost any of them, they were gone.


Norm
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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I know I've got a set that looks something like that . . . still in the plastic bag they shipped in. I was told at one of my first couple of track days that the organizers weren't going to hold up an event while people went hunting for ejected center caps even if they had a pretty good idea where they might have ended up. If you lost any of them, they were gone.
Norm

Yep, depending on how you drive on track, plastic center caps tend to MELT.

IMG_4371-M.jpg


I forgot to remove these (non Forgestar) center caps once and ended up with a Salvador Dali sculpture....

IMG_4370-M.jpg
 

2Fass240us

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Still looking for them . . . stuff seems to have a way of hiding itself around here.


Norm
You and me both, brother. I ordered a set of Wilwood BP-10 pads (for street), Amazon Prime gotta-have-em-now, only to find a brand new set the next day as I was mocking up the brakes. Thankfully they're only ~$65 each but it will be years before I wear through them with a total thickness of 0.8".
 

2Fass240us

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I know this is counter to Jason McDaniel's advice, but I bought 3.73 gears to have installed with the T2R.
 

Mark Aubele

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I know this is counter to Jason McDaniel's advice, but I bought 3.73 gears to have installed with the T2R.

Depends on what height tires you use. I am sure Terry and Jason's gear recommendations are based on 315/30r18 height tires. That's why I swapped to 3.31s, although I would prefer that gear with the factory manifold even with the factory height tire.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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Depends on what height tires you use. I am sure Terry and Jason's gear recommendations are based on 315/30r18 height tires. That's why I swapped to 3.31s, although I would prefer that gear with the factory manifold even with the factory height tire.

DSC_3898-M.jpg


We came up with this 3.31 ratio recommendation (for 5.0 + Getrag) based on multiple tires in the 25.5-26.5" height range, which encompasses most aftermarket 18" sizes that fit these S197 cars.

  • Most of the wide 18" sizes are 25.5" tall: 275/35/18, 295/30/18, 315/30/18, and 335/30/18 Hoosiers are all within 0-0.1" of this height
  • Another popular size: 275/40/18 = 26.7" tall
  • 285/35/18 (of which there are painfully few to choose from) = 25.9" tall
  • 295/35/18 (again, too few to choose from) = 26.1" tall
  • 345/35/18 monster rear Hoosier is only 26.8" tall. That change made the car SO much easier to autocross and drive on track... softening the effective rear gear ratio, and of course giving us 13.2" of tread on the ground (shown above). :)
Well with the 5.0L motor and the Getrag 6-speed gearing, plus those tire heights, the 3.55 and 3.73 ratios MAKE NO SENSE WHATSOEVER. We have had a hard time trying to understand the reasoning at Ford for using these ratios... other than "that's what we used before", with the T45 and other transmissions. Just like there are "legacy" parts made for this chassis that make no sense to us (torque arms, bump steer kits), Ford used some "Legacy" rear ratios.

DSC_2024-M.jpg


Maybe it works for a drag racer, who switches to a TALLER rear tire. But for the wider tire sizes that work on track or in autocross, WHICH IS THE WHOLE POINT OF THIS SUBFORUM, the 3.31 is the ratio that works. It extends 2nd gear in an autocross and reduces how many shifts you make in 3.73 or 3.55 geared cars on track. Torque at the wheels isn't an issue with 3.31s on the 5.0L powered cars, and you can't almost ever have enough tire to use what there is in low speed (2nd gear) corners anyway.

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My HPDE1 student this past weekend had 3.73s in his 2012 Boss302 and it was always running out of gear, and a 3.31 gear would have given him more choices and less shifting. I've driven too many 5.0L Coyotes with the Getrag on track and I always feel like I'm in the wrong gear in 3.55 and 3.73 cars. Always.

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anyway, sorry for the thread jack... just had some right seat time in a 3.73 geared car on track this past weekend - which reinforced our calculations and recommendations for the past 6+ years once again. :)

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Now when you put in a real transmission in these cars, like the T56 Magnum XL (with the optional 2.66 1st and 0.5 6th), ALL of that goes out the window. THIS transmission is when the 3.73 rear gear feels "right" on track and with street use. The internal gear ratios are VERY different than the Getrag MT82. The T56 Magnum has 2 overdrives, and 4th is 1:1 (with the Getrag 5th is 1:1).

Cheers,
 

2Fass240us

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I'd like to say I'm upgrading to the T56 but that won't happen until the warranty's up and the MT-82 shits the bed. Car's sitting at 10k on the clock now so I have plenty of time to stack my chips.

I am still conflicted. The 373s made a massive difference at CMP (my home track) with the 3650, but the Getrag has different ratios.
 

Boone

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I've been studying my gear ratios and track shift patterns at CMP and VIR. I use Harry's Lap Timer to look at my exit speed and straight speeds to try to come up with the best combination of tranny and rear gear I could have.

And the $1,000,000 answer is... I can't. It just sucks. Different tracks will provide different advantages for each combination. For example, my '05 GT with a 3650 and 4.10's:

CMP
Turns 1 - 4 and turns 11-14. Speeds range from 40 to 90 in both sections. I run the whole thing in 3rd.

Two shifts to 4th between 7 - 8 and 8 -11.

Option at turn 14 to drop to 2nd or run the turn and front straight in 3rd. This tops out at 100 mph, so my car is screaming across the line.

VIR
I can run the whole track in 3rd and 4th if I don't want anything over 130 on the straights. When I drop into 5th on the front or back straight, progress is slow to say the least.

I'm debating changing my rear gear to eliminate the use of overdrive, but I will give up a little everywhere I'm pulling out in 3rd gear.

Auto-x
2nd gear tops out at 68mph @7000 rpm and lugs at 25mph @2500 rpm. Slow and tight courses will suck. Wide open spaces where I can keep my speed up will be wonderful.

Check YouTube for corner and straight speeds if you don't know them. Chart your RPM's with a gear ratio speed calculator for positions on the track. Try various setups for different trannys and gear ratios. Optimally, use a dyno sheet for your motor to try to stay in the range that is optimal for your car.

Whether you have 5 or 6 forward gears, no setup will be perfect for everything. I plan to pick my favorite track or activity, and suffer through the rest. If I can optimize two or three, wonderful.
 

2Fass240us

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Thanks Terry and Boone.

Given that I run CMP 3x/year and VIR-F once, CMP takes priority. I DD the car but don't autocross it. If I do, it'd be No Care class, car number 69.

I may delay the decision until after my event in June, to give me a chance to run CMP without the T2R.
 

Boone

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Here's a video of my first, and only, trip to CMP.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DStAMm6O3X4

I took a map of CMP and charted my RPM using a gear ratio calculator. I plan to upgrade Harry's with an OBD2 sensor to confirm my results for my RPM calcs. I'm too much of a rookie to actually look down at my gauges.

Don't change a thing until you know what will change.

I'll see you at CMP sometime for sure.
 

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