For the record, the tensioner arm on the Procharger is not meant for "adding tension in the event of belt slip" nor is it by any means an acceptable quick fix. Procharger made their tensioner arm adjustable to compensate for various crank/blower pulley size combinations AND the various imperfect belt lengths that would be needed to run them. The spring inside the tensioner arm base is what gives tension. It is engineered to give the best possible tension at any given load. If you center your tensioner arm where it should be within its indicated tolerance, and still experience belt slip, cranking down on the tensioner arm should not even be on the table as an option.
If you crank down on the tensioner arm exceeding its centering tolerance, and spin that bitch up to 6,000+rpm, you may find your tensioner bottoms out and chucks the belt right off the rig. That's just my "unicorns and roses" scenario. Also consider this. What happens when the serpentine tensioner bottoms out? It's basically like taking a sledge hammer side-ways to your crank snout. Great way to shatter oil pump gears and destroy a motor. Same difference with the Procharger tensioner, you bottom it out, just picture that sledge hammer with even greater leverage because it's applying force further out on the crank shaft.
Sorry to rattle on about the tensioner, but when people chime in with "oh just crank down on the tensioner arm" like it's no big deal, I read it like nails on a chalkboard sounds. Don't fuck with the tensioner! Use the most appropriate sized belt, center your tensioner arm within its tolerance zone, and let it do it's job.
Grooved blower pulley, IMO is the best solution. Honestly, I wouldn't do a 10 rib or a cog drive unless you're really dedicated to the track or have money to burn. If that's the case, I would consider upgrading from a D1SC to a F1 or F2 setup.
