BMR Watts Link - Teaser

Whiskey11

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But, Kelly, you have the same problem with using the spare tire well. It, too, will be up or down if the car is lowered.

Can you just measure stating the car being stock, lowered 1 inch, etc. Or, if the test vehicle is lowered, just give the drop and the specs on whether lowered or not and how much.

I am interested in pre-ordering as long as I know what I'm buying.

It doesn't matter if the car is stock or modified, that spare tire well is in essentially the same place on every model of S197 making it a usable reference point. Measure 6.5" down from the point there to get an idea of how low the bracing will hang. You can do the rest of the maths from there to figure out how close it is to the ground.
 

nelsonbullitt

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It doesn't matter if the car is stock or modified, that spare tire well is in essentially the same place on every model of S197 making it a usable reference point. Measure 6.5" down from the point there to get an idea of how low the bracing will hang. You can do the rest of the maths from there to figure out how close it is to the ground.

Well, that is only partially true.

The most precise, usable measurement is from the bottom of the center of the differential to the bottom of the watts link. If the car is lowered, the Watts link will be lower as the bottom of the spare tire well is.

They are both attached/part of the chassis which is supported by springs which may be stock or lowered.

It is not a difficult question.

What is the difference. Plain and simple on the test vehicle used and then is it stock or lowered. I can figure the rest out.
 

Wes06

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How about. Watts link is 1in below the spare wheel well. And 2in above the bottom of the diff on said car. That gives two locations to match up.
 

jmauld

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The "relative" point depends on what the lowest piece is hard mounted to. If the lowest piece is hard mounted to the chassis, then the spare tire well is relevant. If the lowest piece is mounted to the axle, then the diff cover is relevant.
 

claudermilk

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Since this is currently discussing the chassis-mount version, I would venture to guess measuring against the spare tire well would work fine.

I'm still waiting on more info on the diff mount version (and to be able to put together funds for which one I decide to go with).
 

nelsonbullitt

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If the axle moves up, the frame of the ways link goes down relative to the axle. If the warts link is too low to begin with, it could make contact with the pavement. Think of a speed bump. The axle moves up more than the chassis therefore if the watts link is low to begin with a problem could result. Mine is primarily a street car so these questions need to be answered.
 

BMR Tech

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How about, measure from the ground to the spot I mentioned, and subtract 6.5" ?

Just saying. ;)

Anyhow:

Rear Fender Height - 28.50" (slight drop)
Bottom of Diff, to lowest spot of Watts Mount - 2.1875"

Here are some pics to better show it.





I apologize, but our cross pad is on another lift being used....or I could have gotten a precise measurement of the distance between the "ground" and the Watts bar.

Right now, the best way to do it - is to use my 28.5" rear fender measurement, and the 2.1875" diff to watts distance. Or, measure from the tire well, to the ground, and subtract 6.5".

Hope that helps some.
 

BMR Tech

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And, it is actually a little less than 6.5"....but 6.5" would be maximum, based on manufacturing tolerances.
 

Whiskey11

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Well, that is only partially true.

The most precise, usable measurement is from the bottom of the center of the differential to the bottom of the watts link. If the car is lowered, the Watts link will be lower as the bottom of the spare tire well is.

They are both attached/part of the chassis which is supported by springs which may be stock or lowered.

It is not a difficult question.

What is the difference. Plain and simple on the test vehicle used and then is it stock or lowered. I can figure the rest out.

No, that is entirely true, it's the only measurement you need. You can calculate how much bump travel your suspension has by looking at it in comparison to the chassis and bumpstop height. Or if you REALLY want to know you can take the springs out and lower the car onto the bumpstops (gently) and give yourself an inch or two of additional room to see if it clears.

FWIW, I'll try and get under my car tonight and give you the Fays2 length. Can't say I've ever had issues with it making contact with the ground and I'm pretty sure it hangs just as low as the BMR unit does.
 

Whiskey11

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Ohhh kay.... I got warm enough to go lay under my car for a few minutes and get some measurements on the Fays2 unit. I also relayed these measurements to Kelly at BMR.

The bottom of the Fays2 bracket sits at 4" from the spare tire well "star" point Kelly used to measure their unit. The upper most center pivot point sits a "lofty" half inch above that point and the bottom is at 2.5" lower. Six and a half inches puts the bottom of the BMR unit at about the same height as my torque arm's lowest point. In the bottom pivot position on the Fays2, the bottom of the prop would sit at about 6.5" from that measuring point.

In other words, ground clearance at that point in DD is a non issue.

FWIW, here is a video of the under side of my car in DDing:


At the 1:00 mark the car starts to go down one of those "half curbs" they now call the end of driveways. At 1:10 the driver side tire goes down, at 1:12ish the passenger side goes down. There is a good 4-5 inches of clearance there.

With that said, Kelly told me they may be revising the design a little to chop off a half inch ish of the bottom of the frame for additional breathing room.
 

Kobie

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Do you have the prop in the top hole? If so how far do your springs lower your car in the back?
 

Whiskey11

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Do you have the prop in the top hole? If so how far do your springs lower your car in the back?

Yes, my Watts is in the top hole.

The coilovers are set for a 2.25" rear drop.
 

claudermilk

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With that said, Kelly told me they may be revising the design a little to chop off a half inch ish of the bottom of the frame for additional breathing room.
I was wondering about that. It seemed squaring off that lower bend would be an easy way to gain some clearance for peace of mind.
 

Whiskey11

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whiskey, are you running stock lca's?

Nope. Haven't been on stock LCA's for well over a year now. Initially to stock control arms with poly bushings and then to the BMR TCA022 Poly/Spherical combo.
 

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