BMR Watts Link - Teaser

claudermilk

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The best method period - is to perform this install on ramps or drive on lift....measure the angle of the actual chassis mount center plate....and match that angle on the axle mount double shear mounting points (not the actual mounts per the instructions, but the actual mounting tabs that bolt to the axle mounts)[/B]

:dunce::doh2::crazy: Why didn't we think of that? So simple.
 

nelsonbullitt

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Yesterday I ordered the BMR watts link. After owning the Fays2, which is very good, I am convinced the BMR design is superior as the axle mounts can be set completely vertical and the connecting rods(is this the correct term?) can be set at the precise angle with out the binding that can occur with the Fays 2 if not exactly precise.
Also, the poly end setup which I ordered should keep the heim end from clicking and clacking as much as the Fays2.
I'll give a report when done. Probably 3 weeks from now.
BTW I was very impressed with the conversation with Kelly. He is a gentleman.
 

BMR Tech

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Thank you for the kind words nelsonbullitt.

It is great to put a voice to usernames. I am pretty confident that you will appreciate our design, and I think you will have a great experience with it, compared to the one you currently have.

I think it was you on the phone, but like I said - for a guaranteed clunk/click free operation, you can acquire some good quality O-Rings and wedge them on the sides of the bearings that connect to the pivot.

Honestly, I have tested both the poly/bearing and the bearing only designs and I was very happy with the NVH levels.

Thanks for supporting our operation, and enjoy!
 

tbrock

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Has any one installed the BMR on a car with Ford Racing rear sway bar? I've got some fitment issues and I'm looking for a work around.
 

tbrock

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Has any one installed the BMR on a car with Ford Racing rear sway bar? I've got some fitment issues and I'm looking for a work around.


Heads up for those running the FRP/Eibach rear sway bar. The endlinks are only 5 1/2 inches in length so the sway bar will make contact with the watts frame. The only options I found so far is to get a stock bar or a bar with longer end links. I believe after talking with Kelly that the BMR end links are 6 3/8 in length so they might alleviate the issue.
 

cbass

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That's the part number Kelly gave me for the rod ends on the lca, and he said it would work for the watts arms as well.
 

CobraRed

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I will say the rod end has linkage has been the most problem free aspect of the watts install and use so far. Has been dead quiet and looks great after driving in rain and grime.

Just coated it with Amosil super protectant spray stuff.
 

tbrock

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Anyone on here have some pictures of their rod end setup? I've got my axle brackets as far inboard (near 3rd member) as possible and I'm almost at my limit of adjustments on the linkages? I'm approx 2-3 turns in on each end for both passenger and drivers side with the pivot near vertical. Looking at BMR online photos they have very few threads showing. Kelly is out today.
 
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JerryZ

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The instructions say to position the axle clamps as far outboard as possible. Mine are right against the spring mount on both sides. Seems to me the WL will work better with the mounts farther outboard. I would not be so concerned about the few threads showing in the photos
 

CobraRed

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Anyone on here have some pictures of their rod end setup? I've got my axle brackets as far inboard (near 3rd member) as possible and I'm almost at my limit of adjustments on the linkages? I'm approx 2-3 turns in on each end for both passenger and drivers side with the pivot near vertical. Looking at BMR online photos the have very few threads showing. Kelly is out today.

I have 3 videos on installing mine if it helps in any way. Sounds like video 2 would start to help.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0b2n4djn9o&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVsP-FX98lw&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jb9iwA5D060
 

tbrock

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The instructions say to position the axle clamps as far outboard as possible. Mine are right against the spring mount on both sides. Seems to me the WL will work better with the mounts farther outboard. I would not be so concerned about the few threads showing in the photos

That's where I started, but with the clamps positioned outboard as far as possible the rod ends come out of the link rod. I had to move them in just to be able to get some threads into the link rod.

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1566&superpro=0

If you look at the photos on BMR's site the link bar connecting the two rod ends is long enough to have very little of the rods ends "backed" out. On my setup I have at least twice as much rod end thread showing on both sides.



Thanks I used your thread as a guide. However, I have rod ends on both ends and I'm guessing that the links that were sent are not the correct length.
 

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tbrock

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Just got off the phone with Pete at BMR who was helping out while Kelly is out. I was shipped the wrong links. The correct links should be 8" not 7". Looks like next week before I can drive the car.
 

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CobraRed

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Hmm, seems like stuff like that has been happening a lot.
 
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