bought my maximum motorsports caster camber plates

[darkstar november]

what should i start with spec wise for my alignment?

the car has tockico d specs, steeda springs, some bracing. lcas, adju 3rd link, adj panhard bar and is on nt555's atm, moving to nt05's next set of tires

 

[Rangersfan]

I would help you John, but since you are cheating on me by buying MM plates, I'll will say good day to you sir






Caster you're good, stock they come with plenty. Camber, depends on street or track setup. Street, go with the stock OEM specs, for the track -1.5 degrees is a good starting point.

 

[RedMosesSC]

Im at -1 degrees but that is my max with the Steeda HD strut mounts, most people run -2 degrees for street or more if your on the track.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

I run the MM plates, PLUS crash bolts, and came up with a pretty good setup...

Pull the plates full-outboard (minimum camber), and adjust to factory spec with the crash bolts. Then, when you get to the track, just dump the plates inboard to add as much negative camber as you want. The more negative camber you dial in, the more your toe angle will change towards the positive. But, believe me, the change isn't huge. A little less toe-in (or zero toe) will get you a slight improvement in turn-in crispness, without getting unstable at speed on the straights. At the track, I'm set up for -2.75* camber, and just a touch of toe-out. Bang the plates back outboard, and I'm sitting around -1.2* camber, and roughly neutral toe.

 

[Random Asshole]

I run the MM plates, PLUS crash bolts, and came up with a pretty good setup...

Pull the plates full-outboard (minimum camber), and adjust to factory spec with the crash bolts. Then, when you get to the track, just dump the plates inboard to add as much negative camber as you want. The more negative camber you dial in, the more your toe angle will change towards the positive. But, believe me, the change isn't huge. A little less toe-in (or zero toe) will get you a slight improvement in turn-in crispness, without getting unstable at speed on the straights. At the track, I'm set up for -2.75* camber, and just a touch of toe-out. Bang the plates back outboard, and I'm sitting around -1.2* camber, and roughly neutral toe.

Congrats! After your next run, you will smack yourself for not buying them sooner.

I have mine set to -2.5, but I don't drive my car more than 50 miles a week. I'm thinking about doing Dave's approach. Who's bolts did you buy? You recommend them or think you'd gone with something else now?

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Congrats! After your next run, you will smack yourself for not buying them sooner.

+1 to that!! Negative camber makes a TON of difference in the mid-corner phase...

I have mine set to -2.5, but I don't drive my car more than 50 miles a week. I'm thinking about doing Dave's approach. Who's bolts did you buy? You recommend them or think you'd gone with something else now?

If I was starting from scratch, I would skip the camber bolts and go with the Steeda offset plates for the strut/knuckle joint. Solid fit rather than a friction fit. I'm constantly double-checking my eccentric bolts.

There's a plug for you, Steve!! How 'bout a group-buy on those?

 

[darkstar november]

sorry steve

im making decent moneys now, ill be calling you in a month or so for some nt05's...

 

[Random Asshole]

+1 to that!! Negative camber makes a TON of difference in the mid-corner phase...



If I was starting from scratch, I would skip the camber bolts and go with the Steeda offset plates for the strut/knuckle joint. Solid fit rather than a friction fit. I'm constantly double-checking my eccentric bolts.

There's a plug for you, Steve!! How 'bout a group-buy on those?

Not following..You talking about steeda's upper strut mount/cc plates or something else. I'm not seeing what you are describing on their site.

Is it these?

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Yessir, that's them!

I'll swap over to those if I can get a deal or a sponsorship (hint, hint, Steve and Gus), because paying full boat on them just isn't in the budget. And no, the Grani-fucking-telli knockoffs are NOT "the same, only cheaper."

Now would be a perfect time for me to swap over, since (I hope!) my AST dampers are due in in less than a month.

 

[Wbihm225]

MM CC Plates Install ?

I've just orderd a set of MM CC Plates this evening. I have read through MM install directions serval times I am trying to figure out if the Steeda HD Strut mounts I have are useless in the transition over. The MM instructions refer to the upper strut mounts from the factory. Anyone know if I need to go pick up a set of OEM to make them fit or will pieces off the Steeda HD's transfer over? Want to do it right. This is what I have know

 

[Random Asshole]

The MM plates are your new mount. Why are you swapping?

 

[Wbihm225]

New wheel/ tire set up. Can't dial in my camber with current set up.

 

[Random Asshole]

ok. You confused me with the picture of the steeda CC plates. I thought that's what you had.