Brake Pedal Firmness Problem

ddd4114

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I've been struggling with a squishy brake pedal for over a year, and I'm just about stumped. Unfortunately, I can't exactly remember when I started noticing the problem. I have a 2011 Mustang GT that almost exclusively is a track car. I have a Stoptech ST40 front brake package (w/ SS lines), and I have the OEM rear brake setup. I use Hawk DTC60 brake pads on all corners, and I use Motul RBF600 fluid.

What's strange about the squishy pedal is that once the brakes are hot, the problem completely goes away, and the pedal feels fantastic. This only takes about 1/2 of the warm-up lap on a road course or after thoroughly bedding in new pads on the street. I've also noticed that while the pedal is squishy when the brakes are cold, stopping power doesn't feel compromised at all. At first, I thought it was a fried master cylinder, but if I stand on the brakes, the pedal doesn't sink at all (while the engine is running).

With a squishy pedal, the culprit is almost always air in the system, but even after bleeding the brakes many times all last year, I couldn't get rid of it. I just replaced/rebuilt all of my calipers, bled the system with new fluid, and it still feels the same. I'm reluctant to have a dealership use their special tool to bleed the ABS module because I'd think air in those lines would still cause the pedal to feel soft when the brakes are hot. I also don't see how the booster could cause this because if anything, it feels like there's too much assist. I still have the OEM rubber lines on the rear brakes, but again, if they were expanding, I don't see how heating them up would make the pedal feel better.

Has anybody else experienced a problem like this before? Fortunately, it doesn't seem to be a safety issue, but it sure feels disconcerting on the street. I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks.
 

ddd4114

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Yeah, I thought about that too. It would make sense that as the pad expands in the caliper, it's not as easy for the rotor to push them back. What seems strange is that I didn't experience it when I first started using the ST40 setup. It also doesn't feel quite the same as the pad knockback I've experienced before because it feels more "squishy". The pad knockback feeling I've experienced before just has no resistance until the pads start pushing against the rotor. It's definitely a possibility though.
 

Sky Render

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What pads are you running? They can have an effect on pedal feel.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk
 

ddd4114

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I've been using Hawk DTC-60 pads exclusively for years, but I didn't notice this problem when I first switched to them.
 

Boone

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Someone on another forum (TRACKMustangsOnline?) came up with a master cylinder brace. Check to see if you're having deflection there. I thought it seemed a little useless until I looked at this thread.

Just checked and it's from Blowfish Racing, and they are $90.
 

Sky Render

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ddd4114

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Someone on another forum (TRACKMustangsOnline?) came up with a master cylinder brace. Check to see if you're having deflection there. I thought it seemed a little useless until I looked at this thread.

Just checked and it's from Blowfish Racing, and they are $90.
Very interesting. I might have to test this theory over the weekend and try to measure how much compliance I have.

Thanks!
 

El_Tortuga

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I'm curious as well. I've never been happy with the pedal firmness. I attribute a fair bit of that to whatever is happening with overboost in power brakes. If you turn the car off and pump out the vacuum stored in the brake booster, by pumping the brakes a couple of it still feels off just a touch softer than I would prefer.

I think I'll set up the dial caliper on the engine side to check.
 
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ddd4114

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I just drove the car today for the first time since making this thread, and inexplicably, the pedal feels much better. Nothing has changed except time (and weather). I guess it has to be something related to the fluid. Maybe it's like water and traps small air bubbles that are slowly released over time? Regardless, I'm still interested to see how much deflection the M/C has from the firewall flexing.

I'll be at Mid-Ohio all weekend, so I'll see how the pedal feels during the warm-up laps.
 

El_Tortuga

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Curiosity got the better of me so I set put the dial indicator tonight. Typical master cylinder deflection was on the order of .015-.020". Maxed out, I saw about .045".

Center of pedal is roughly 13.5" from pivot and the brake cylinder rod about 3.25" of that. By my reckoning, that means if it's totally solid the pedal might not droop by .19 or about 3/16". Not sure if that would translate to much better feel.
 

SoundGuyDave

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1) I don't think firewall flex (which is what's being measured here) is the culprit in a "soft pedal" feeling. Usually, when I've destroyed my brake fluid, pedal travel can be well over 1" of mush, and if you're flexing the firewall, it won't feel like mush.

2) Personal opinion is that this is a solution just looking for a problem to solve.

3) Coming late to the party, but I have a trick for the persistent "slightly soft" pedal, despite bleeding. Vacuum-burp through the reservoir. Put a vacuum pump hose through a rubber stopper in the fluid reservoir opening, apply vacuum, then RAPIDLY dump the vacuum (say by pulling the stopper, NOT the line). This sends "micro-tremors" through the fluid, and may dislodge a small bubble or two that is clinging to the side of a tube or passage through surface tension. You'll need to repeat it about a dozen times or so.

I stumbled across that after replacing a throwout bearing and trying to get it all bled down. Brake pedal feel improved at the same time!
 

2006mach1

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Using a scan tool, perform an ABS bleed. Air can get stuck in the ABS system. Also, on my Boss, I seemed to always have a soft pedal in hard braking. I finally replaced the master cylinder. The pedal is now firm. So much better than since I have owned the car from day one. The master cylinder is inexpensive, I think around $50.
 

ddd4114

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UPDATE: I'm 99% sure the cause is boiled brake fluid - but not 100%.

I've been monitoring pedal feel more closely since starting this thread, and I've run 3 track events in that time. The pedal felt fine until a full day at Road America this weekend, and then it felt like crap again after only three 15-min sessions. In the past, I only bled the front brakes since they take the majority of the abuse. However, this time, I decided to bleed all four corners. The pedal feel improved substantially. After the next session, I checked the rotor temperatures with a pyrometer, and to my surprise, the rears were just as hot as the fronts. All four corners measured ~480 degF - and that was after a cool-down lap and driving back through the paddock. I have 4" brake ducts, so the front gets lots of cooling. I'm wondering if fluid boiling in the rear calipers caused this issue in the past.
 

SoundGuyDave

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That'll do it... Also, if you're running any sort of "race" brake fluid (Motul RBF600 for example), it's so aggressively hygroscopic, it ages out in around six months, and the temp required to actually boil the fluid plummets. 595*F becomes 400*, and the thermal gain from the braking zones into T1, T5, and T12 can get your fluid up there in short order. Full system flush at the start of the season (and end if you're a maintenance freak) is solidly indicated. Also note that the owners manual recommends ANNUAL brake fluid service even with street fluids in a car that never sees a track...
 

ddd4114

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Yup, that's exactly the fluid I'm using. I flushed the system at the beginning of April, so it's been less than 2 months. However, pushing a 3800-lb car around Road America isn't very easy on the braking system, so I'm not surprised.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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Soft pedal = air in your brake lines (ie: boiled fluid). It is almost always this. Bleed your brakes first, then go looking for other answers.

Pad knock back makes for a lot of pedal travel where nothing happens - the caliper pistons are having to take up a lot of slack. This happens on the rear of some solid axle cars which have opposed piston calipers. Sometimes.

A master cylinder "brace" would reduce flex at the firewall when pushing on the pedal, and could give you a little pedal feel change... but I don't see the need on an S197. This is a real problem on some cars, namely modern Subarus, but not the S197. But hey, its another new doo-dad to buy, so there is that. :whistle1:
 

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