Brakes question/clarification

NDSP

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I'm a long time drag racer, who quit the hobby about 6 years ago when I got sick and tired of the money sink and bs that comes with who is the fastest. Long story short, my daughter turned 16 and I got her a mustang( 06 GT convertible ) which of course put the bug back in me, and now I too have a Mustang (06 GT coupe). This makes my 12th mustang, lol. Anyway, it is my daily driver and I would like to do the occasional autocross and track day. So I've been reading in here quite a bit and while the chassis part seems pretty straight forward on what needs to be done, I'm still a little confused on brakes. I know that stock brakes will come to a quick death on the track as they are, and that at a minimum new fluid and track specific pads are in order to safely manage a day at the track. I have to say, the idea of having to change my pads( and possibly rotors) every track day seems like a PITA. I was thinking that maybe if I upgrade my front brakes to say the brembos that maybe I could have a brake setup that would be at home on the street and track without changing pads? But what pads could I use with the brembos that might fit the bill.

My build plan is:
Vorshlag Bilstein coilover setup
whiteline: LCAs, UCA, Watts Link, Relocation brackets, and front and rear sway bars
brembo front brakes upgrade and ????? pads that will live on track and street if they exist, some high temp brake fluid

wheels and tires are stockers for now, was thinking AMR staggered 18/9 and 18/10 but after reading in here I'm thinking stockers for street and 18/10 squared with rivals 265/35/18 for track/autocross. wheel maybe a F14 if I can swing it.


We have a track day coming up in mid june at eagles canyon raceway and I'm jonesing to give it a try. Thanks for your help.

here is my ride:
x4KZ1cq.jpg
 
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Roadracer350

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Cant see the pic but for pads I vote for the DTC-70 Hawks. Terry could prolly tell you better tho.
 

modernbeat

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... I have to say, the idea of having to change my pads( and possibly rotors) every track day seems like a PITA. I was thinking that maybe if I upgrade my front brakes to say the brembos that maybe I could have a brake setup that would be at home on the street and track without changing pads? But what pads could I use with the brembos that might fit the bill...
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Terry may feel differently, but I'm a bit hard nosed and will answer - none.

I'm going to say this with absolutes, though there is really a lot of grey area here.

Any pad that is good on the street will either overheat, or melt or crack and fall off the backing plate on the track.

Any pad that is good on the track will make frightening noise, dust like crazy and eat rotors like they are Oreo cookies when driven on the street. And the good track pads won't even brake well on the street because they aren't up to temp.

The PITA that comes with managing two sets of brake pads and rotors is minimal compared to the PITA of having pads that are even slightly too aggressive on the street, or pads that are even slightly not up to the task of braking on the track. There are compromise pads, but those will exhibit all the bad characteristics on both the street and the track. Those compromise pads make it difficult to enjoy your car on the street due to the dust, noise and increased cost due to wear. They make it difficult to enjoy your car on the track because you will either have to baby it around the course or sit out sessions while your brakes cool off.

I highly recommend using a dedicated set of track pads to supplement a dedicated set of daily-driver pads.
 
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Roadracer350

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Terry may feel differently, but I'm a bit hard nosed and will answer - none.

I'm going to say this with absolutes, though there is really a lot of grey area here.

Any pad that is good on the street will either overheat, or melt or crack and fall off the backing plate on the track.

Any pad that is good on the track will make frightening noise, dust like crazy and eat rotors like they are Oreo cookies when driven on the street. And the good track pads won't even brake well on the street because they aren't up to temp.

The PITA that comes with managing two sets of brake pads and rotors is minimal compared to the PITA of having pads that are even slightly too aggressive on the street, or pads that are even slightly not up to the task of braking on the track. There are compromise pads, but those will exhibit all the bad characteristics on both the street and the track.

I highly recommend using a dedicated set of track pads to supplement a dedicated set of daily-driver pads.

Wouldnt you have to "deglaze" the rotors when you swap over and "rebed" the pads?
 

Napoleon85

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Terry may feel differently, but I'm a bit hard nosed and will answer - none.

I'm going to say this with absolutes, though there is really a lot of grey area here.

Any pad that is good on the street will either overheat, or melt or crack and fall off the backing plate on the track.

Any pad that is good on the track will make frightening noise, dust like crazy and eat rotors like they are Oreo cookies when driven on the street. And the good track pads won't even brake well on the street because they aren't up to temp.

The PITA that comes with managing two sets of brake pads and rotors is minimal compared to the PITA of having pads that are even slightly too aggressive on the street, or pads that are even slightly not up to the task of braking on the track. There are compromise pads, but those will exhibit all the bad characteristics on both the street and the track. Those compromise pads make it difficult to enjoy your car on the street due to the dust, noise and increased cost due to wear. They make it difficult to enjoy your car on the track because you will either have to baby it around the course or sit out sessions while your brakes cool off.

I highly recommend using a dedicated set of track pads to supplement a dedicated set of daily-driver pads.

I agree with this completely. I thought I was going to be able to stomach Hawk HP Plus pads on the street, but it's unbearable and they're not even close to the really aggressive end of the spectrum. These are basically entry level track pads. My car sounds like a school bus whenever you touch the brake pedal, and the wheels are covered in a full coat of dust every time I drive the car.

So now ... I'm buying a second set of rotors and pads anyways.
 

NDSP

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Wouldnt you have to "deglaze" the rotors when you swap over and "rebed" the pads?

I was wondering about this also, when swapping pads. Which makes me think, not only do you need to swap pads but also swap rotors. I quess it isn't that big of deal, but I'm lazy.

Can ya'll see the pic now?
 

TheViking

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I was wondering about this also, when swapping pads. Which makes me think, not only do you need to swap pads but also swap rotors. I quess it isn't that big of deal, but I'm lazy.

Can ya'll see the pic now?

Personally I would swap both over for track days. My understanding is swapping over to race pads will work ok but swapping back to street pads is the issue. Since the street pads (probably) won't sufficiently remove the material left by the race pads you will have issues braking. I've read Carbotech makes a set of pads which can be swapped but I have no personal experience with them.

The front rotors & pads are pretty straightforward to swap out. The rears are more involved but you may get away with a street/strip pad here since they are doing little of the braking anyway (ie, heat up less).
 

I am Legend

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With much debate, I personally don't feel that there is a pad on the market that can accomplish street and track duty. Street pads work cold, so when you leave your driveway in the morning that first stop on your commute is going to be there and bite strong. Track pads need to heat up, thus around town might not work that well and then there is the aesthetics (dust, noise, etc)

Conversely, street pads on the track, melt. You could push hard for a lap or two but then you will need cool down laps before you can give it a go.

Honestly (I know its involved) If you are going with all those suspension mods and you are serious about doing some track time, get a set of rotors and pads for the track. Keep them paired so you know what pad goes with what caliper/rotor. Also do the same with the street setup. Your street setup will be on 80-90% of the time, so what if you need to do a quick swap for the remaining 10-20%
 
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modernbeat

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Wouldnt you have to "deglaze" the rotors when you swap over and "rebed" the pads?

No. You swap rotors also. And you keep the track pads and rotors together and the street pads and rotors together.

It's a surprise to most people that are new to motorsports that quality replacement rotors are cheaper than good performance pads. In fact, with good pads that have little or no filler materials, you may go through two sets of rotors for each set of pads on the track.

I'm going to ask Terry to chime in here. He's tried to find a compromise pad for years, while I immediately gave up and went directly to the good stuff!
 
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SoundGuyDave

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I'm with Jason here.... The first time you punt somebody on the street on a panic-stop because your race brakes aren't up to temp, you'll REALLY wish you spent the 30 minutes or so to swap pads and rotors. And the instant the pedal drops to the floor on track at 130+ MPH because your street pads just disintegrated, you'll REALLY wish you spent the 30 minutes or so to swap pads and rotors.

And yes, it really only takes around 30 minutes (or so) to swap all that stuff out. Tools requred: 12MM, 13MM, 15MM wrenches, C-clamp, rear piston compression tool, available from Harbor Freight for around $30.

If you haven't, read my "Brake Tech" sticky at the top of the forum, there should be some decent info in there about why "compromise pads" won't work.
 

Napoleon85

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If you have the non-brembo brakes you can get rotors incredibly cheap from the Roush Overstock ebay store. Last I checked they were $50 an axle, and these are truly "new take off." I've seen the lot they sit in, and these cars are probably driven about 300 feet before being stripped (Ford drops them off on a vehicle carrier).
 

NDSP

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If you have the non-brembo brakes you can get rotors incredibly cheap from the Roush Overstock ebay store. Last I checked they were $50 an axle, and these are truly "new take off." I've seen the lot they sit in, and these cars are probably driven about 300 feet before being stripped (Ford drops them off on a vehicle carrier).

Thanks for the heads up, just picked up four rotors for my "track" set.
 

dontlifttoshift

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Good advice here, I agree with all of it but I do have a question.

Doesn't driver ability and ACTUAL inteded useage factor in here? The typical new guy running 20 minute sessions at a PDX certainly isn't going to hurt a set of HPSs on stock rotors...we haven't. 10,000 street miles, 200 autocross runs, and a couple of pdxs and we are still in good shape. They will get changed out before the next "big track" but we could autox and street drive the rest of the summer on whats left. FWIW, we are Brembo equipped.

I realize that we don't drive as hard as most (we'll get there) but maybe this guy doesn't yet either.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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So you've likely read my horror stories about tracking my stock 2013 GT on the base 13.2" brakes/OEM pads/OEM fluid. It was ugly, brutal pad wear that took the fronts down to the backing plates in two shortened 15 minute track sessions (running in a NASA TTB class). I went for a big ride off track after the front brakes finally failed. Always.... ALWAYS upgrade at least the fluid and pads to track worthy hardware before tracking in anger. Unless you are going to tip-toe around at 5/10ths speed, this can happen. And it isn't just the Mustang. Even with the 14" Brembo fronts, the stock pads and fluid both turn to mush when they see the extreme heat of track braking on these big, heavy cars.

IMG_6222-M.jpg
IMG_6429-M.jpg

This is what I did to the OEM brakes on a brand new 2013 GT in two track sessions...

I also agree with Jason @ Vorshlag (aka: modernbeat)... there isn't a good dual-purpose track & street pad. You can get away with the same pad for autox and street, but the requirements and needs of street use and track use brake pads are contradictory.

Street pad wish list:


  • Quiet
  • Low dust
  • Work well when pad ice cold (don't take any preheating to have effective stopping power)
  • Long rotor life
  • Unwanted characteristics include: aggressive pad wear, braking effectiveness drops off badly with added heat, lower coef of friction

Track pad wish list:

  • Great stopping power
  • High coefficient of friction
  • Stop well when warm or HOT
  • Unwanted characteristics include: noisy, lots of dust, aggressive rotor wear, don't work AT ALL when pad is cold
As you can see, these two sets of requirements pretty much cancel each other out, nearly perfectly. So, as you can see... there is no dual-purpose street/track pad. Anyone that says there is, well... they aren't being 100% honest with themselves. They are either holding back on the track (braking early/less aggressively) or dealing with lots of dust/noise/poor cold stopping power on the street.

DSC_6489-M.jpg


I've tried at least 100 different brake pad compounds/models/brands, on dozens of cars, over the past 25 years of racing. For many of those years I was looking for the best dual-purpose street track pad, but it simply does not exist. Once I figured that out (it was after Jason made me quit trying to have "one pad to do everything") things got a lot simpler.

Track / Street Brake Pad Options:

1. Buy a dedicated track pad and swap them in at the track or just before your drive to the track from home. Then swap in your street pads once you return from the track. This way requires you to re-bed the pads slightly after each swap (and has some risk some cross-contamination of each differing pad material to the rotor)

2. Buy an extra set of rotors and track pads and swap them together, between track and street use.

We tried Option 1 above for years and, well... some funky things would happen. We've had much better luck with Option 2, especially when we marked where each pad (like "RF, outer pad") and rotor ("Street, RF") belonged. Then you never have to worry about cross-contamination or re-bedding pads to rotors. They are already bedded with their matched set of rotors. Sure, it is a bit more work, but it is the best option we've found, in the long run.

DSC_5558-M.jpg

The small-ish rear brakes on the S197 can be overtaxed, too

Note: Most cars respond very positively to proper track pads on the front axle, but some are more tolerant of a "street pad" on the rear, especially on cars using street tires (ie: not generating massive brakign g-forces). So if you're really lazy, at least keep swapping good track pads (and rotors) on the front axle. But as you get faster you will notice you are taxing the rear brakes more, and could potentially overheat them, too. We saw significant rear rotor and pad wear early on with our 2011 Mustang, and the car responded very well to a more aggressive rear track pad. It has gotten so bad on the rear of our Mustang that we're upgrading to the rear rotor diameter, pad and and caliper.

DSC_0248-M.jpg
DSC_0234-M.jpg

Of course adding brake ducts to the front rotors always helps a great deal for track use

---------------

As for the front brakes on the OP's 2006 GT... YES! Most definitely upgrade the fronts to the 14" Brembo set-up from the 2011-up Mustang's optional package. We're putting together a "Vorshlag" package right now for this very upgrade, which will include the authentic Brembo calipers, quality 1-piece rotors, your choice of street or Carbotech track pads, stainless steel brake lines, all associated bolts/hardware, and optional custom backing plates for 3" brake ducting. This will make a TREMENDOUS track braking upgrade in any S197 Mustang that doesn't already have a 14" or larger front BBK.

_DSF2162_1-M.jpg
_DSF2159-M.jpg


This first 14" Brembo upgrade kit is about to go on my 2013 GT, which has the base GT 13.2" front brakes. The weights for the rotor and caliper are shown above, for reference. Once we get this kit together I will post about it on this form. We are also working on a 13.77" diameter rear brake upgrade kit for this the S197 chassis (the first kit is going on my 2011 GT, TT3 car). We will be testing this rear brake upgrade at our next NASA TT event at Hallett, June 22-23. Hoping to see more reasonable rear brake temps than we did at NOLA.

More soon,
 

Sky Render

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265 tires will fit on an 18x9. I run 285s on 18x10 AMRs on all four corners. The front tires rub at full lock.
 

I am Legend

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If you have the non-brembo brakes you can get rotors incredibly cheap from the Roush Overstock ebay store. Last I checked they were $50 an axle, and these are truly "new take off." I've seen the lot they sit in, and these cars are probably driven about 300 feet before being stripped (Ford drops them off on a vehicle carrier).

Just did this also, 100 for 4 rotors! good stuff! spare set...check.

Upgrading to brembo....eventually :thumb:
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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Good advice here, I agree with all of it but I do have a question.

Doesn't driver ability and ACTUAL inteded useage factor in here? The typical new guy running 20 minute sessions at a PDX certainly isn't going to hurt a set of HPSs on stock rotors...we haven't. 10,000 street miles, 200 autocross runs, and a couple of pdxs and we are still in good shape. They will get changed out before the next "big track" but we could autox and street drive the rest of the summer on whats left. FWIW, we are Brembo equipped.

I realize that we don't drive as hard as most (we'll get there) but maybe this guy doesn't yet either.
Of course, the driver's ability and speed on track GREATLY effect brake pad & rotor wear and heating issues. We can't know how fast a driver is when folks ask these questions, so I always assume "this guy is pushing 10/10ths". I'd say the OEM brakes are good for about 5/10ths in a Mustang. But yea... some people ARE THAT SLOW. Most people are, really.

I've instructed 100s of track newbies over the decades, and I've seen a lot of the "Mr. Magoo" super tentative drivers that brake 500 feet early, never brake at anywhere near full potential, and never squeal a tire. That's fine, and a good place to start (much easier to speed people up than reign them in from near-death over-driving). Rolling around at 5/10ths is probably not going to tax the brakes, tires or anything. But I've seen others that were also total newbies to track events, that either had some natural ability ("Maybe she's born with it, maybe it's Maybelline?") or experience from another form of motorsport (ie: motocross, autocross, etc) that quickly translated to lots of speed track, from the very beginning.

Most of the in-car videos I watch of typical HPDE folks are... painfully slow. I dunno, but to me, it usually looks like a large percentage of HPDE folks brake 300-1000' too early, use maybe 40-50% of the braking system's potential, and get on the gas WAY too late. Braking on a road course is a tricky thing to master, and can have dire consequences if you get it wrong, so I understand the reason why most folks brake too early. And I don't push my DE students to "Go faster!" until they have mastered all of the new, strange skills that you just won't have at your first few HPDE events (proper seating and hand position, smooth down shifting, learning understeer/oversteer/car control, passing etiquette, throttle application, etc, etc). On the rare occasion that I get a GOOD student in say... HPDE2, one who has worked hard and mastered these basic skills and is confident and safe driving at 9-10/10ths, sure... then I'll work with them on pushing the brakes, pushing braking zones, and going faster. Speed is just so far down the list of "needs" for HPDE1 students.

But so many folks graduate out of HPDE1 to drive solo, then never get the "go faster!" instruction they might need to actually.... go faster. Brake later. Learn car control (but they should learn this in a parking lot, dodging around cones). Coming from an autocross background myself, where we Left Foot Brake like mad and push every braking zone to the inch to squeak out every thousandth, you quickly learn to PUSH THE BRAKES. I just watched some in-car laps today someone sent me and it was... sad. 20 seconds off the pace he should be running in that car at this track (ZR1 at TWS, CW), for his experience level. The guy was braking 1000 feet too soon, everywhere. Coasting through corners. On the throttle 100's of feet too late. What do you say to these folks? There's no nice way to tell someone, "Your lap times are slow because you're just driving too damn slow". You can get away with that in person, with friends, but most people just don't take that criticism well. When you can get in and show them what 20 seconds faster feels like, with real timing equipment, then... maybe you get through. Maybe. Being an effective "Driving Coach" for track drivers takes mountains of patience and diplomacy skills that I probably just don't have.

So one rambling diatribe later, yes, driver ability is a huge factor in brake pad wear. :p Sorry if I came off as a know-it-all snob, but I see a lot of really slow laps on video, and in person from the right seat. I'm sure there's someone, somewhere, that watches my in-car videos and says the same thing. :D

Stock brake pads or even HPS pads just will not last that long when you are pushing it. I've used Hawk pads (HPS, HP+, all of the DTC variants) on a number of cars and S197s and... well, I guess all I will say is that any of the low cost brands have LOTS of filler, which makes for poor wear. I've had some pads literally crumble and fall apart when removed, even with more than 50% pad material still left. Does not make for a cost effective set-up. The more expensive pads just don't have these useless filler material and/or don't crumble and fall apart, so they last longer, and have a much better cost-per-mile factor, too. I've gone through the cheap pads, and the expensive pads (PFC, Ferrodo, Carbotech), and always end up saving money with more costly pad brands. That's a whole other subject.

Cheers,
 
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Napoleon85

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If I sent it to you, I would want you to tell me that I was slow, why I was slow, and what I could do better. Then again I know I'm slow because I've done zero hpdes and gotten zero professional instruction. I would start with paying for seat time with an instructor before buying a GoPro ;)
 

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