Breaking in a new motor?

Cali HP Addict

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Ok, who here has broken in a new motor and how did you go about it?
I ran mine at idle for about 20 minutes to bring it up to full temp, shut it down and changed the oil and filter.
Now, I think I am supposed to drive for about 500 miles fairly easily. That meaning 4500 rpm max and little to no boost. I am varying my rpm as much as possible and trying to put the miles on it via the back roads so I'm not stuck on the highway.
I will probably change the filter but not the oil at about 200 miles.
Then, at 500 miles I will do an oil and filter change.
Is 500 miles really necessary? Who has broken theirs in differently and what were the results?
 

psfracer

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Yeah, I want to know the best way also---will be breaking mine in later this week.
 

94tbird

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+1 i will be eventually haha. Don, care to comment?
 

DynoJoe

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This is from one of the top Engine builders in the country. I ran into him at a race last year and asked him the same thing and here is what he told me.


Him: Do they do road racing where you are?
Me: Sure
Him: Find out if they let anyone do it. If they do sign up and run the car. The motor will go through sooo many RPM changes with you getting in and out of the throttle in the sessions that after a couple sessions, It will be broken in Perfect!


The Gentleman that told me this...............Jack Roush Himself.

When he told me this is was like....no Way. We did on a couple motors I;ve built and Not one ever had a problem with anything. One was an '03 Cobra with a 3.3Whipple and another was another '03 Cobra with a 2.4 KB running ALOT of boost making 690 or so to the rear wheels.



So I pass this knowledge on to all of you as I have followed it like gods word on how to break in a Motor.
 
V

VSOP

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I have always been told not to babby them or run them to rich during break in.. You need to get on it just not stay in it.. The rings need to seat properly and if you don't get on the gas or run it really rich you run more of a chance of blow by..
 

Cali HP Addict

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I found this at VT Engines:

VT Competition Engine Development – Engine Break In Procedures

Your VT Competition Engine Development motor has been assembled by seasoned race engine builders, to the fine specifications they demand. Here is what they recommend for maximum life and performance from your new engine combination:

- Add non-synthetic 5W30 to engine. Upon start up, allow engine to run at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes to allow valvetrain components to fully pump up. Have another person watching the gauges, specifically oil pressure. After the 2 minutes is up, allow engine to idle until it comes to operating temperature. Drive vehicle for a short 10-15 mile cruise to allow load on engine. Do not take motor past 3500rpm. Once back at the shop, drain oil and replace filter, again with non-synthetic 5W30. Put 500 miles on this round of oil, gradually taking engine higher in the rpm band, as miles are put on odometer. At 500 miles, again drain oil and replace filter. Add non-synthetic 5W30 and drive vehicle for another 500 miles. At this time, if you prefer to run Synthetic oils, you may add them now (1000miles). This has given the rings ample time to seat into the cylinder properly. We recommend Mobile1 5W30 synthetic (or a comparable quality) for use in any VT Competition Engine Development motor.

If you have specific questions, please call our sales/tech line at:
(519)245-1164
M-F 9:00-5:00 EST

Thank you for choosing VT Competition Engine Development, home of many of the world’s fastest Modular powered vehicles!

TeamVT
 
V

VSOP

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anyone that does not run dyno oil in it is asking for issues..
I would not run syth till at least a 1000miles..

Also I'm wondering if 5w30 will cause any issues with the vct
 

thump_rrr

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I ran Dino on the stock motor for 5,000 miles before switching to Mobil1.
I believe in the let it warm up and drive it like you stole it.
 

Cali HP Addict

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I was instructed by JDM to run the full synthetic GT500 5-50 oil from the get go. This is because I run the GT500 oil pump. Also, the ford factory starts every new motor up with full synthetic oil. It must not be all that bad.
 

thump_rrr

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Cali HP Addict said:
I was instructed by JDM to run the full synthetic GT500 5-50 oil from the get go. This is because I run the GT500 oil pump. Also, the ford factory starts every new motor up with full synthetic oil. It must not be all that bad.
The GT500 doesn't have VCT does it?
 

94tbird

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good question peter, i have no idea myself but id like to know
 

Cali HP Addict

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One thing I do know for sure is that the GT500 oil pump is actually a 3v pump with a slight tweaking of the internals by SVT. Also, my stock oil pressure gauge reads 3/4 when it only read 1/2 before the new motor. I started it up with 5-30 Valvoline Dino oil and it read just shy of 3/4 so the additional pressure is not just the oil.
 

94tbird

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interesting....very interesting. are you basing this only on the stock gague or do you have a real oil pressure gague as well?
 

Cali HP Addict

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Just the stock gauge. I have been watching closely though since I am the first "regular guy" I know of to run the GT500 pump.
 

94tbird

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u can be the test dummy, although for your sake i hope your not the dummy lol haha. i suck with the regular GT base oil pump
 

ZmanM3

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I think it was Larry H that sent me a link to an article about breaking in engines, it was pretty good and it pretty much agree with what DynoJoe put in his post and what Pete said about driving it like your steeling it. Then again I also read the VT engine article too. I think that for every opion out there some one has the oppisite opion. I think when it is time for me to break in my engine I am going to do a lot or research on results that people have, but right now I am leaning tward the Jack Roush method of engine break in.
 

Cali HP Addict

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I think that the motors of today are so damn technologically advanced that it doesn't really matter. I mean, really, have you ever heard of anyone saying that I screwed up by doing ??? when breaking in my new motor? Some take it easy and some drive it hard and it seems that both end up with good results. If there is a problem with a new motor, it is gonna show up no matter what. At this point in the topic, I think it is important to ask, who has proof that any particular break in procedure is inferior and produces negative results and why?
 
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VSOP

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No the issue with Full Synthetic oil is real.. The really slick synth oils can slip past the rings making it harder for them to seat properly.

I did not think ford had a full synth oil in the GT500 I thought at the most they had a blend
 

Larry_H

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Ron, You will break in the new motor exactly as I tell you to....I've already told you that you have to run it till its up to normal operating temp, then change the oil and filter.....OK, your done...all broke in....now, go drive it like you're trying to give the Troopers writer's cramps!!!!!!
 

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