Building long block today

Hollowdweller

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2018
Posts
324
Reaction score
37
Hoping APR lube comes today so I can complete longblock build. Preassembled last night & ran into an issue…I think? I was putting the lifters in oil and priming them…I thought it’d be a real smooth action but it’s not. Some seem a lot smoother than others. I have 2 so far that aren’t smooth at all, they move but barely. Problem is I have no idea how they’re supposed to feel. I grabbed several of the old ones and they don’t really move at all, way worse than any of the new ones. They’ve been sitting in a box for a few months but I can squeeze alittle oil out of them still. I’m wondering if they feel hard and locked up to me but the cam will move them effortlessly….I dunno, hate to keep going. Anything else I can do to show you all what I’m talking about? Vid or any tests I can run? If I compare the new ones to the old ones it’s no comparison really, none of the old ones really move but the new ones do. Are they supposed to be hard to compress?

D833B15C-B80F-4D01-9E37-0B6D50616B99.jpeg

570398D8-A2FE-4D85-8B3F-F1EA903D8392.jpeg
Old lifters
6720E3E3-5E15-4558-90BF-82683D387823.jpeg
 

moooosestang

Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2022
Posts
261
Reaction score
95
Location
Alachua, fl
I can't answer your question, but i think i'd have ordered all new lifters just to be safe. I so want to do this. Did you buy a used long block and tear it down then build it back up?
 

Hollowdweller

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2018
Posts
324
Reaction score
37
I can't answer your question, but i think i'd have ordered all new lifters just to be safe. I so want to do this. Did you buy a used long block and tear it down then build it back up?
I pulled the motor in my 2006 Roush & had forged rods & pistons put in for 76mm turbo. All new components ……lifters, springs, seals, followers…only things existing are the valves and keepers. All new timing chains, guides, sprockets, phasers, & turbo cams. Yeah the last one I did in 2002 I had the shop build it all but this one I at least wanted to build the timing & valve train. Had shop do Tranny too….kinda wanted to attempt it but nah lol


ARP lube just came in…fixing to go build , wish me luck lol

4DA185C7-CCF6-420A-9FF8-6F35234940DC.jpeg

87B4D27E-93D3-4B93-8D44-786C75A36B36.jpeg
 

JC SSP

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Posts
1,084
Reaction score
470
Location
FL
Take your time and double check everything.

Cannot wait to hear how she runs buddy.
 

Hollowdweller

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2018
Posts
324
Reaction score
37
Take your time and double check everything.

Cannot wait to hear how she runs buddy.
Maaaan me either!!!….thanks for all the help

Didn’t get it all done today. Heads torque’d, got the cams & new timing chain kit installed expect the chains. Ran into a few problems. Lost a head stud washer, found it 2hrs later in very back of head. It fell between a valley way and ended up behind the spring…man I was pissed!! Had to remove spring again to remove it. Have a few fears and questions…..

1. When I was torquing the head studs sometimes it would “slip” or feel like it would strip out…is this normal? Freaked me out at 1st but they all seemed to do it really. Everything torqued so I proceeded on but it didn’t seem right

2. Can I rotate the cams now? They turn alittle but hit a stopping point and I’m scared to apply pressure. Could I bend a valve?

3. I had to cut some of the plastic off the timing chain guides to make them fit correctly….what does that mean? Did I get a cheap set? I watched a YT vid and a guy did the same thing but the vid was kinda cheezy so I figured he got cheap parts..?

C06B3875-400B-4EA2-B182-BCB709190CDA.jpeg

4ABAEFC4-4AF4-4D42-A7AC-8A2DE5CFC586.jpeg

E4254489-3B7E-428F-AEB9-58CCF47AD883.jpeg
 

Hollowdweller

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2018
Posts
324
Reaction score
37
The main trimming done was on the right side head. The plastic fins hit the CTV housing. I got lucky and had the spacer from my factory setup bcz the spacer that came on the guide was to thin. The bolt would’ve bottomed out well before hitting the spacer. I didn’t get a pic of the factory spacer before install. It all fits flush and bolts down smoothly but is this normal?

7B62E600-8D53-4D87-8BBF-BB221BA5C8AC.jpeg
 

Hollowdweller

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2018
Posts
324
Reaction score
37
Also cam phaser lockouts!!?? I don’t understand these at all!! The sec I torqued the 2nd phaser bolt I wondered if I’d just screwed up!! I asked awhile back and was told to talk to my tuner…just haven’t found one yet. My search for a local tuner hasn’t been successful! Have zero problems using Lito based off what I’ve read on the forum but was hoping for local.

Anyway…now that I’ve installed and torqued those bolt will I have to get new ones if I have to add lockouts?
 

Midlife Crises

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2019
Posts
1,857
Reaction score
1,266
Location
Fairbanks, Alaska
The bolt that holds the phaser to the cam is a one time use fastener. Use a new Ford bolt every time. Also, the cam manufacturer usually specifies what springs to run and wether limiters or lockouts are needed. The tuner will need to know if the phasers and active, limited or locked out.
 

Hollowdweller

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2018
Posts
324
Reaction score
37
The bolt that holds the phaser to the cam is a one time use fastener. Use a new Ford bolt every time. Also, the cam manufacturer usually specifies what springs to run and wether limiters or lockouts are needed. The tuner will need to know if the phasers and active, limited or locked out.
10-4….I didn’t know if the bolt would need to be removed to install the lockouts but it does. I don’t see anything on the cam sheet that mentions lockout, just says new springs required. I’ll call Comp Mon and see.
 

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top