camber bolts for toe-out

[phatphil]

Has anyone used the BMR camber bolts to adjust for toe-out? I noticed after having the S/C installed the extra weight created some toe-out, causing some serious tire wear on the inside of my tires. I had the alignment checked after the install and everything checked good. I just think the extra weight over time has caused the toe-out. Is there sufficient adjustment in the stock set-up to compensate? The camber bolts are fairly cheap versus caster-camber plates.

 

[ren274u]

Im pretty sure toe can be adjusted without bolts or plates

 

[phatphil]

That's why I'm asking because I really don't know. I thought I read somewhere that there isn't any adjustment for the S-197's to amount to anything.

 

[jizabel]

toe is adjusted at the tie-rod ends, inside cupping is a camber adjustment this needing bolts

 

[05stroker]

toe is adjusted at the tie-rod ends, inside cupping is a camber adjustment this needing bolts

+1000

 

[phatphil]

Thanks guys. The tires have worn completely to the cords on the very inside tread on both front tires, no cupping. Tread is completely normal on the rest of the tire.

 

[phatphil]

Heh, never give it any thought but maybe the front end coming up and slamming down might have something to do with the toe-out.

 

[05stroker]

Heh, never give it any thought but maybe the front end coming up and slamming down might have something to do with the toe-out.

If your talking about at the track then I would think the camber would be affected more by that but I have not had to worry about the tire off the ground thing YET !!!

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Regardless, something is off on your alignment, either camber or toe.
Get it to a good alignment shop who knows what they are doing.

Camber adjustmens are usually needed for lowered cars; even with extra weight up front from my supercharger, the camber was in spec until I lowered it. And adjusting camber will affect toe, too.
The only easily-adjustments are for toe (via tie rods). Caster and camber are generally not adjustable w/o special bolts.

 

[phatphil]

If your talking about at the track then I would think the camber would be affected more by that but I have not had to worry about the tire off the ground thing YET !!!

The tires don't come off the ground, but the front end sure comes up alot and slams down pretty hard. Although I'm not sure that the wheels don't come off the ground sometimes. I think I'll take it in to my alignment shop when I get my new tires and see what they have to say. I had it checked out when I had the S/C installed and everything was dead nuts on. I'm thinking a combination of the added weight and the front coming up and slamming down has made a difference, I also had some Roush lowering springs put on the back that probably made some changes. We'll see, I just got to decide what combination of tires I want, right now I can't decide.

 

[KIM_05_GT]

So to adjust caster and camber on these cars can be done with just bolts and not plates? Whats a good kit? I'm having the same problem from being lowered.
thanks

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Camber is easy to do:

"crash bolts" skinny bolt with an eccentric lobe to adjust the strut to knuckle angle, thus adjusting camber
"camber plate" replaces the crap Ford upper strut bearing plate, allows the top of the strut to move inboard/outboard relative to the tower, thus adjusting camber

Caster is a bit more problematic... Only one that I know of is the Maximum Motorsports camber/caster plate, allows strut-top to move inboard/outboard as well as a slight (around 1*) fore/aft. Nice piece, I have one myself.

Also, just as an aside, due to the geometry of the front end, changing camber will have a small effect on toe, but not that pronounced. If you have a toe issue, it will show up as "sawtooth wear" across the tread of the tire: look for a sharp edge to the inboard or outboard of each tread block on the tire Wearing the inside or outside edge will come from camber being off, wearing BOTH is underinflation. Caster will not show in wear, but will show with a pull to one side or the other. Cupping will indicate bad shocks or a wheel badly out of balance.

HTH

 

[KIM_05_GT]

Thanks for the good info.

 

[phatphil]

Camber is easy to do:

"crash bolts" skinny bolt with an eccentric lobe to adjust the strut to knuckle angle, thus adjusting camber
"camber plate" replaces the crap Ford upper strut bearing plate, allows the top of the strut to move inboard/outboard relative to the tower, thus adjusting camber

Caster is a bit more problematic... Only one that I know of is the Maximum Motorsports camber/caster plate, allows strut-top to move inboard/outboard as well as a slight (around 1*) fore/aft. Nice piece, I have one myself.

Also, just as an aside, due to the geometry of the front end, changing camber will have a small effect on toe, but not that pronounced. If you have a toe issue, it will show up as "sawtooth wear" across the tread of the tire: look for a sharp edge to the inboard or outboard of each tread block on the tire Wearing the inside or outside edge will come from camber being off, wearing BOTH is underinflation. Caster will not show in wear, but will show with a pull to one side or the other. Cupping will indicate bad shocks or a wheel badly out of balance.

Both tires have a fairly narrow wear pattern around the entire circumference of the tire about 1/2 inch wide, no cupping, no pulling.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Both tires have a fairly narrow wear pattern around the entire circumference of the tire about 1/2 inch wide, no cupping, no pulling.

Where on the tire? Inside, middle or outside?

 

[phatphil]

Where on the tire? Inside, middle or outside?

Inside.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Well, that's either camber or toe... Get thee to an alignment shop!

 

[phatphil]

Well, that's either camber or toe... Get thee to an alignment shop!

Thanks everyone.

 

[willautoy]

Also have your rear a arm hydro bushings checked out I found at 30 k they start to get some play in them. I personally am going with the steeda insert set for mine