Clamp-on Ammeter Help

[Flapjack]

i'd like to have a 5.4 in my stang also

Hahah, do it then.

I should have the headers for the twin turbo next Monday or Tuesday. They're not coated or anything... he wants to make sure they fit right. Once I confirm that, he'll start sending out the rest of the stuff. Getting excited.

 

[Flapjack]

Another update. This was from a question someone asked on the Mustang Collective... if anything aftermarket had been installed. This was my reply:

Yeah, stereo and such... But that's been there for years. The newest addition is a backup camera, but that's also been there for over 2 years.

The "auxiliary power" fuse is for the cigarette lighter plugs, which is exactly what the backup camera plugs into, but I've only recently hooked that up. Even so, I usually leave it off because it's wireless and seems to interfere with the keyless entry. Then after I get in the truck, I turn it on so the backup cam turns on.

So... the small drain I saw could be explained by the backup cam... But again, it's been there for several years and always gets shut off anyways. In fact, it was disconnected completely because I accidentally broke off the camera. I hooked it back up after soldering and repairing it, but this battery drain problem has been going on much longer, during the time the cam was disconnected.

So if that's all the draw was, I'm back to square one, as I didn't register any draw when I first had this problem (while the camera was disconnected).

On top of everything, I got a sweet battery light after starting the truck up today. That was never there before. The only thing different about this time was that I removed the alternator to have it tested. I had a difficult time getting the control plug harness out, so I might damaged a cable in the plug or something. I'll have to look at that tomorrow.

 

[rojizostang]

makes sense if it's the cig lighter circuit as it would be one of a few circuits i believe that would retain the capability of being energized while the key is off. the others would probably be the brake lights/tail lights, head lights, dome lights and such.

i don't know how the experts shoot trouble on stuff like this, but it would seem the next step would be to isolate segments of the wire/wires/harness attached to this fuse and then start testing each section for continuity to ground. i'm sure that's going to be easier said then done, though.

you should pm ixtlan. he's one among several on the forum that are very knowledgeable with wiring and schematics and stuff. i'm pretty much just self taught and really don't have a lot of understanding regarding schematics and symbology and stuff like that. i'm surprised he hasn't chipped in here already, to be honest.

 

[GB10]

Just fyi, if you are trying to read current in your house then you would need to take the breaker panel cover off and clamp the meter around one of the conductors that are terminated on the 2p 30 breaker for the dryer. Should be around 21-25 amps on each phase at full load(i.e. high heat).

Reading current from anywhere but the power distribution source will give inaccurate readings mainly due to voltage drop. The greatest load will be at the breaker or fuse termination point.

Btw, I'm a licensed electrician and have been doing commercial/industrial work for 15 years.

 

[rojizostang]

/\/he's got problems with his suburban...