Clay bar suggestions
- Thread starter 2kanchoo
- Start date
Zaino. I love the stuff.
Zaino eh. Now to see if I can find a local zaino dealer...
SteveP
Modular Specialist
Meguiars!!! I detail alot of cars and used alot of stuff. Their clay bar works the best and its the only thing I will use!!
Any do's or donts with the clay bar/wax system?
Good question. I haven't had or used them before but have seen the results. I'd really like to get a good setup for spring.
08AlloyGT
forum member
Here is a long winded post from mustangforums.com called "Deatailing 101:etc. etc"..http://www.mustangforums.com/m_3061659/tm.htm It pretty much covers everything. Although it may be a little biased on some waxes and sealers. If you scroll down about halfway through the original post, there's a section on clay barring. I picked up Meguiers Smooth surface kit the other day, and am going to give it a go using that method on the mustang tomorrow (if it stops raining). I'll let you know how bad I fuck up the paint.
Last edited:
08AlloyGT
forum member
It was still pissing rain on and off today so I'm holding off . I will re-post when it's done for those who are interested.
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Id say mothers or meguairs.....either one just do it good....wash,clay,wash again, wax......and you will be bragging and driving around showing off ur sexi car
btw no offense but i cant see your car making 364 HP with what you have...are you sure the dyno was working properly
btw no offense but i cant see your car making 364 HP with what you have...are you sure the dyno was working properly
+1000000000 That stuff just rocks. Period. I have never seen or felt a car finish like the one I get from Zaino. The absolute slickness of it will astound you. Not that the others mentioned aren't a good solid choice, but IMO, it's not even close on the finish.
www.zainostore.com
I can't either. I have no idea why it read so high. My elevation reading was 325/343 I'm guessing that is a lot closer to being my actual sae reading. I'll have to see what 1/4 times I can cut this spring at the track. I'm hoping for a 12.8ish at 2500 above sea level.
Oh I have all mothers for leather conditioner and interior spray etc and love it. I'll see what I can find. I don't want to have to order crap I'd rather be able to pick it up locally.
Sometimes ordering crap is worth the difference. You may be able to get Zaino locally. We have a guy that stocks & sells the stuff personally. Where are you located? I may be able to assist.
slicksilver
forum member
Majestic Solutions in Raleigh NC has a great clay bar and lube. They also have a synthetic premium carnuba wax that is amazing. I buy all my detailing products from them and have never been disaponted. You have got to try their "Finish Polish" with a porter cable 7424 buffer, will make you paint look like glass!
http://www.majesticsolutionsinc.com/
http://www.majesticsolutionsinc.com/
slicksilver
forum member
I do detailing on the side for local stang owners. Maybe I can make some suggestions? Just ask Caleb at Fastlane, I keep my stuff clean!!
slicksilver
forum member
Here are a few basic steps I follow when cleaning my car:
Steps to detailing a cars painted surface.
1- Using two buckets, (one for the soap, and one with only water for rinsing) and sponge or mitten, wash the car. Use a grit guard in the buckets to prevent the sponge from picking up dirt. Rub the sponge on the grit guard to release trapped dirt. You may need to use a clay bar to remove bugs and tar and/or a special bug/tar removing sponge. If you use a bug/tar sponge, let it soak in water for a few hours before using, this is a very stiff abrasive sponge. Make sure to use clay bar lubricant if you use clay bar for bug/tar removal. Wash the wheels last! Use a separate brush or sponge for the wheels and the same soap bucket that you used to wash the vehicle. When finished washing an area, make sure to flood the area with water to allow faster drying time and less spotting. You want the water to sheet off. Spraying the area will cause the water to bead. To flood the paint, remove the spray attachment and run the water over the area straight out of the hose. Flooding also cuts drying time in half. When cleaning the wheels, use a brush to clean the cracks and tight areas in the rim. Make sure to clean the fender splash shield as well.
2- Dry the cars paint. Use a micro fiber towel to dry the paint. Let the car completely dry, not just the painted surfaces, but in the areas where water is trapped and can wet applicator pads and buffer pads. Use an air compressor or small vacuum set to blow setting to blow the water out of cracks and hard to reach places. Also, make sure to dry all water under the fender area and hood/trunk/doors. Make sure the paint is completely dry.
3- Once car is dry, you need to use a dry micro fiber cloth to gently wipe over the entire painted area. This removes any surface dust that may scratch the paint in preparation to clay bar in the next step.
4- Now you will want to clay bar the painted surface. Do not use water to lubricate the surface, make sure to use a clay bar lubricant only. In some cases clay bar lubricant can also be used as a quick detailer spray. Spray the lubricant on the clay bar and on the surface to be clayed. Using just the weight of your hand, gently rub the clay bar over the lubricated surface. You will feel the roughness of the paint at first and then it will become smooth. When you cannot feel any roughness, use a micro fiber cloth to dry the area that you just clay bared. Do this to the entire vehicle. Make sure to keep the area that you are working on well lubricated. You do not want the clay bar to stick or grab the paint, this may cause scratching. Water will cause the clay bar to do this that is why it is recommended to use a clay bar lubricant only. (Note: if a micro fiber cloth does not remove clay bar residue, you may have to re wash the car. This is recommended if you are not planning to polish)
5- Next, using painters tape, tape off all headlamps, tail lamps, glass, plastics, emblems, rubber, the antenna base, and/or other items that polish may become trapped in or that polish may harm.
6- Next, you will need a buffer for this step with a white pad (white pads are slightly abrasive and work well on slight paint buffing. Designed to be used with a finial polish or light cutting polish) (For heavier scratches or marring, use a more abrasive pad and polish). Set the buffer on medium to low high speed (Porter Cable 7424 set to speed 3 first), do not set on highest speed! Using a polishing compound (not a wax), apply a streak of the compound to the paint. Using a squirt bottle filled with water, lightly mist the buffing pad with water before using. Make sure to continue applying a light mist of water throughout polishing. Tilt the buffer and buff over the compound in an angle the first stroke so you do not sling the compound off the paint, then lay buffing pad flat on the surface and work the compound into the paint. After going over the polish a few times, change the buffer speed to medium high (Porter Cable 7424 set to speed
7). Do not apply pressure to buffer, use only the weight of the buffer to apply the polish. Work the polish into the paint until the appearance of the polish is very faint. Try to do complete sections of an individual panel at a time. After working the polish in, wipe off a small area to check results. Use a halogen light to show any faint scratches or micro-scaring. If you see any, repeat the polishing once more. Once the compound is worked in again, use a micro fiber cloth to wipe a small area clean. Check results, if there is still scaring, repeat until area is perfect. You may have to work the buffer in a back and fourth motion to help aid the cutting properties of the pad. Depending on the condition of the paint, you may have to use a more abrasive polish and pad at first then finish it up with a finial cutting polish. Sometimes just a fine cutting polish is not enough. Polish the entire painted surface of the vehicle.
8) Now that you have polished the paint it is time to put a protective coat of wax over the surface. Make sure to leave the paint tape in place. Apply the wax with a foam applicator pad by hand. Make sure to continually spray a light mist of water on the pad while using. Apply a very faint coat of wax to the paint, the less the better. If using a liquid wax, wax the entire vehicle before removing. This allows the wax to haze properly. Check the area you are going to wipe clean by swiping your finger over the haze. If it reviles a clean surface, it is ready to be wiped clean. Wipe off the wax with a micro fiber cloth. Use only the weight of your hand to apply the wax, do not rub hard. The idea is to keep the wax on the surface of the paint, not in the paint.
Steps to detailing a cars glass.
1) Using Windex, or one part ammonia to ten parts water, clean the glass using a tightly woven 100% cotton towel. Wipe of the cleaner with a micro fiber cloth in order to prevent streaking.
2) If glass contains spotting (or hard water deposits) that cleaners will not remove, you will have to use a buffer or 100% cotton towel and lots of elbow grease, and “bio-clean” cleaner to remove the spots. Make sure to wash and clay bar the glass before proceeding. Do this step on glass only! Do not use “bio-clean” on clear plastics! Bio-clean contains a fine grit that will damage paint, make sure to tape up any surfaces other than glass. This includes all plastics, rubber, chrome, or painted areas. With the buffer set on medium to low high settings (Porter Cable 7424 set to speed 3 or 4), apply the cleaner to the glass and use techniques mentioned in steps 6 and 7 under “steps to detailing a cars painted surface“. “Bio-clean” will not become faint, instead it will turn into a paste. Work the buffer over the cleaner for quite a while in order to cut the hard water deposits off. Once you are finished, use a micro fiber cloth to wipe off the cleaner. If you use a cotton towel to clean the glass instead you will have to rub very hard depending on the severity of the spotting. Wipe areas clean as you work to see if any spotting is still visible. Note, make sure you wash, and clay bar the glass before doing this step.
3) Next, you will need to repeat step 1 to remove any remaining residue from the “bio-clean”.
Steps to detailing a cars clear plastics (head lights / tail lights).
1) With area clean of contaminates, wash then clay bar the area first using techniques in step 4 under “steps to detailing a cars painted surface”
2) Repeat process in step 1 under “steps to detailing a cars glass”.
Steps to detailing a cars dark plastics.
3) Clean plastic the same way you would wash your car. Make sure the plastic is completely dry!
4) Using a color rejuvenating solution such as “back-to-black” apply to the plastic and work it in with a 100% cotton towel. Allow the compound to set a few minuets. Then using a micro fiber cloth, wipe the residue off the plastics surface. Make sure to do this to dark colored plastics only.
Steps to detailing a cars painted surface.
1- Using two buckets, (one for the soap, and one with only water for rinsing) and sponge or mitten, wash the car. Use a grit guard in the buckets to prevent the sponge from picking up dirt. Rub the sponge on the grit guard to release trapped dirt. You may need to use a clay bar to remove bugs and tar and/or a special bug/tar removing sponge. If you use a bug/tar sponge, let it soak in water for a few hours before using, this is a very stiff abrasive sponge. Make sure to use clay bar lubricant if you use clay bar for bug/tar removal. Wash the wheels last! Use a separate brush or sponge for the wheels and the same soap bucket that you used to wash the vehicle. When finished washing an area, make sure to flood the area with water to allow faster drying time and less spotting. You want the water to sheet off. Spraying the area will cause the water to bead. To flood the paint, remove the spray attachment and run the water over the area straight out of the hose. Flooding also cuts drying time in half. When cleaning the wheels, use a brush to clean the cracks and tight areas in the rim. Make sure to clean the fender splash shield as well.
2- Dry the cars paint. Use a micro fiber towel to dry the paint. Let the car completely dry, not just the painted surfaces, but in the areas where water is trapped and can wet applicator pads and buffer pads. Use an air compressor or small vacuum set to blow setting to blow the water out of cracks and hard to reach places. Also, make sure to dry all water under the fender area and hood/trunk/doors. Make sure the paint is completely dry.
3- Once car is dry, you need to use a dry micro fiber cloth to gently wipe over the entire painted area. This removes any surface dust that may scratch the paint in preparation to clay bar in the next step.
4- Now you will want to clay bar the painted surface. Do not use water to lubricate the surface, make sure to use a clay bar lubricant only. In some cases clay bar lubricant can also be used as a quick detailer spray. Spray the lubricant on the clay bar and on the surface to be clayed. Using just the weight of your hand, gently rub the clay bar over the lubricated surface. You will feel the roughness of the paint at first and then it will become smooth. When you cannot feel any roughness, use a micro fiber cloth to dry the area that you just clay bared. Do this to the entire vehicle. Make sure to keep the area that you are working on well lubricated. You do not want the clay bar to stick or grab the paint, this may cause scratching. Water will cause the clay bar to do this that is why it is recommended to use a clay bar lubricant only. (Note: if a micro fiber cloth does not remove clay bar residue, you may have to re wash the car. This is recommended if you are not planning to polish)
5- Next, using painters tape, tape off all headlamps, tail lamps, glass, plastics, emblems, rubber, the antenna base, and/or other items that polish may become trapped in or that polish may harm.
6- Next, you will need a buffer for this step with a white pad (white pads are slightly abrasive and work well on slight paint buffing. Designed to be used with a finial polish or light cutting polish) (For heavier scratches or marring, use a more abrasive pad and polish). Set the buffer on medium to low high speed (Porter Cable 7424 set to speed 3 first), do not set on highest speed! Using a polishing compound (not a wax), apply a streak of the compound to the paint. Using a squirt bottle filled with water, lightly mist the buffing pad with water before using. Make sure to continue applying a light mist of water throughout polishing. Tilt the buffer and buff over the compound in an angle the first stroke so you do not sling the compound off the paint, then lay buffing pad flat on the surface and work the compound into the paint. After going over the polish a few times, change the buffer speed to medium high (Porter Cable 7424 set to speed
7). Do not apply pressure to buffer, use only the weight of the buffer to apply the polish. Work the polish into the paint until the appearance of the polish is very faint. Try to do complete sections of an individual panel at a time. After working the polish in, wipe off a small area to check results. Use a halogen light to show any faint scratches or micro-scaring. If you see any, repeat the polishing once more. Once the compound is worked in again, use a micro fiber cloth to wipe a small area clean. Check results, if there is still scaring, repeat until area is perfect. You may have to work the buffer in a back and fourth motion to help aid the cutting properties of the pad. Depending on the condition of the paint, you may have to use a more abrasive polish and pad at first then finish it up with a finial cutting polish. Sometimes just a fine cutting polish is not enough. Polish the entire painted surface of the vehicle.
8) Now that you have polished the paint it is time to put a protective coat of wax over the surface. Make sure to leave the paint tape in place. Apply the wax with a foam applicator pad by hand. Make sure to continually spray a light mist of water on the pad while using. Apply a very faint coat of wax to the paint, the less the better. If using a liquid wax, wax the entire vehicle before removing. This allows the wax to haze properly. Check the area you are going to wipe clean by swiping your finger over the haze. If it reviles a clean surface, it is ready to be wiped clean. Wipe off the wax with a micro fiber cloth. Use only the weight of your hand to apply the wax, do not rub hard. The idea is to keep the wax on the surface of the paint, not in the paint.
Steps to detailing a cars glass.
1) Using Windex, or one part ammonia to ten parts water, clean the glass using a tightly woven 100% cotton towel. Wipe of the cleaner with a micro fiber cloth in order to prevent streaking.
2) If glass contains spotting (or hard water deposits) that cleaners will not remove, you will have to use a buffer or 100% cotton towel and lots of elbow grease, and “bio-clean” cleaner to remove the spots. Make sure to wash and clay bar the glass before proceeding. Do this step on glass only! Do not use “bio-clean” on clear plastics! Bio-clean contains a fine grit that will damage paint, make sure to tape up any surfaces other than glass. This includes all plastics, rubber, chrome, or painted areas. With the buffer set on medium to low high settings (Porter Cable 7424 set to speed 3 or 4), apply the cleaner to the glass and use techniques mentioned in steps 6 and 7 under “steps to detailing a cars painted surface“. “Bio-clean” will not become faint, instead it will turn into a paste. Work the buffer over the cleaner for quite a while in order to cut the hard water deposits off. Once you are finished, use a micro fiber cloth to wipe off the cleaner. If you use a cotton towel to clean the glass instead you will have to rub very hard depending on the severity of the spotting. Wipe areas clean as you work to see if any spotting is still visible. Note, make sure you wash, and clay bar the glass before doing this step.
3) Next, you will need to repeat step 1 to remove any remaining residue from the “bio-clean”.
Steps to detailing a cars clear plastics (head lights / tail lights).
1) With area clean of contaminates, wash then clay bar the area first using techniques in step 4 under “steps to detailing a cars painted surface”
2) Repeat process in step 1 under “steps to detailing a cars glass”.
Steps to detailing a cars dark plastics.
3) Clean plastic the same way you would wash your car. Make sure the plastic is completely dry!
4) Using a color rejuvenating solution such as “back-to-black” apply to the plastic and work it in with a 100% cotton towel. Allow the compound to set a few minuets. Then using a micro fiber cloth, wipe the residue off the plastics surface. Make sure to do this to dark colored plastics only.
rad_rob
forum member
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2008
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Adam's Polishes FTW! Ive been using all of their products for a little while now and have been REALLY happy. They have a ton of dealers too. You should definitely check them out.
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