DIY Ignition Coil Wire Upgrade

Redrocket06

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Upgrading the 12V feed from the BEC to the coils and the grounds from the coils to the PCM. Some have done this to combat spark blowout. This has been talked about but I wanted to put up some pics to help with clarification. Wire diagram: http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=40&viewfile=Electronic Engine Controls - 4.6L.pdf

On the PCM the bottom connector is where all the coil grounds return to.
I don't have pics of the botton PCM connector with the loom removed. But my wire colors matched the colors indicated in the diagram link posted up top:
Cylinder Color Stripe
1 LT Green White
2 pink white
3 white pink
4 DK green violet
5 LT green yellow
6 orange yellow
7 pink LT Blue
8 white red

You will cut these wires leaving enough to strip and solder larger awg grounding wire from the coils (I used 12awg). It is important to match each wire to the proper cylinder, if you fail your car will not run.


Fuse box/BEC removed and upside down, 12V feed is from the green section (closest to the battery):


Green section disassembled and you will need these two red wires that are sharing a square. Check from here to the coil connector with a multimeter before cutting (fuel injector 12V feed is on the same block and have 2 red wires sharing a square too). Cut them leaving enough to strip and solder larger awg to them. I cut the wire leaving about 4-5 inches and soldered larger driverside wire to one and larger passengerside wire to the other. This is 12V always hot, so matching which goes to what side is not important here. I used 10awg wire.:




After cutting coil connectors off and making harness. I used 2 10awg wires (one for each bank) for 12V feed from the BEC, and a 12awg for coil grounding back to the PCM (each coil has to have its own ground back to the PCM). I made all the wire I used the same length to equalize resistance across the circuit. About 6ft each (made hiding wire interesting in the end). solder all connections with rosin core solder and heat shrink wrap. I also kept the ignition transformer capacitor (some I have read deleted it).



After tracing out the 12V feed I couldn't figure out where this wire went (one with a red zip tie going into connector C110), after spending many hours looking in wire diagrams and connector pinouts and some help on here I did not include it in my new harness. No ill effects found as of yet. Thread asking for help/info:http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107044

 

wildbillcody

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Instead of cutting the wires and splicing them back together with a bigger gauge wire is there any way to rewire the plugs that way its all the same gauge wire or would that not make a difference?
 

fdjizm

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^this, aren't you still bottle necking the wire because the one in the connector is still the stock size?
Never heard of anyone doing this.
 

JeremyH

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While doing the whole wire is optimal of course, doing a splice and bigger wire near each end is the same gain (no measurable difference resistance wise). There is no "bottlenecking", this isn't fluid physics/flow. The large gauge wire with more copper for the majority of the distance will reduce heat, reduce resistance and improve amperage flow. Which means more responsive electrical components with better control.

You could de-pin the connector and de-solder the pins but the connector likely wont accept the larger wires, it's already a tight fit for whatever wire size the connector is built for. Plus the pins on the connector are already only so big so an inch more of thicker wire like I mentioned will make no measurable difference and the larger wire like done definetly will help.
 
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Redrocket06

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^^This. If you did want to take it into the connector, you can find the connector from diyautotune on amazon. Comes with the connector, terminals and seal, just run wire of your choice through the connector, crimp/solder terminal. $6 each X 8 for no real level of improvement. This upgrade made it feel like I ditched some old plugs for new ones, I thought it was worth the effort and time.

When buying wire, check the temp ratings, most wire from auto part stores is only rated to 175F, best to go up a bit.
 

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