Dynosheet, need opinions!

[Jucostud]

Time for a c&l intake manifold. It will smooth that curve up big time!

 

[AbdullaGT500]

Time for me to go into bankruptcy too....fml this is getting more and more expensive!

 

[GB10]

I'm running the stock cams and my torque comes in at 650ft-lbs at around 3600 through redline at 6200 and never drops off until right around 6200. I have no intentions in changing the cams either and I plan to eventually be in the mid 9's. I will upgrade the springs later on though.

Something about your graph definitely seems off since it is so jumpy. Usually turbo cars have a smooth broad curve and those Hot Rods should show short curve with a high peak, but with the turbo they just don't work well since you are loosing boost pressure due to the excessive overlap.

 

[Irishman]

could the ruff lines be because of the smoothing being set at 3. It seems that most have it set to 5.

 

[AbdullaGT500]

I'm planning on getting the cams taken out when I do the clutch next week. Along with the swapping the rear end back to 3.55's, and maybe a frpp intake manifold before getting it retuned.

 

[bmaxwell]

If your clutch isn't slipping, which it looks like it is, then it will be very shorlty haha. Good thing you're ordering that clutch

 

[Jucostud]

could the ruff lines be because of the smoothing being set at 3. It seems that most have it set to 5.

Mine was done at 3, so probably not the issue...

I'm planning on getting the cams taken out when I do the clutch next week. Along with the swapping the rear end back to 3.55's, and maybe a frpp intake manifold before getting it retuned.

C&L manifold is better for boost.

 

[JeremyH]

Hell yeah rev that bitch lol

 

[AbdullaGT500]

Holy shizzle, I'd piss my pants before taking my car that high. Clutch ordered! Now I need to find a deal on a manifold....

 

[Vapour Trails]

As mentioned, the cams and gears are all wrong for a turbo setup but the overall power level is healthy. I don't see a reason to change anything unless you are going to upgrade the shortblock.

 

[Full_Tilt]

Doesnt look like clutch slippage to me, but it does look like it was tuned by a monkey.

Its not an issue of the smoothing, that just takes out the really sharp spikes, the OPs dyno has very large lumps most likely due to inconsistent fuels or possibly extremely conservative timing.

Could also be boost control issues but its usually more dramatic that that.

 

[AbdullaGT500]

I think he said it was 16 degrees of timing.

 

[Full_Tilt]

I think he said it was 16 degrees of timing.

rofl
Where? max boost? in boost in general?

 

[AbdullaGT500]

Excuse my ignorance, but is that conservative? I know nothing about tuning.

 

[Full_Tilt]

It depends on where its at. If thats at like 5 psi its extremely conservative, if its at 15 psi its pretty aggressive

 

[AbdullaGT500]

Well I'm only making 8lbs of boost...

 

[Full_Tilt]

Even being conservative I would expect a few more degrees than that at 8 psi. Most likely youre tuner was being overly conservative because hes tuning on a dynojet.
The vast majority of Dynojets are not load holding, so theyre sorta okay for tuning NA engines and almost useless for tuning a turbo engine.
Since its not under as much load as it should be, you could be super agressive with the timing and boost on the dyno without a hint at detonation and as soon as you take it out on the street it could blow up. So when you tube a turbo car on one you just have to be really conservative and hope it was conservative enough.

Im not saying the timing is the issue for sure, but I can tell you that dyno is lumpy. With the exception of spool up a turbo will make for a very smooth powerband, and you dont have that.

Either way, Getting a tune on a load holding dyno (mustang, dyno-dynamics, etc) is a must imo.

 

[JeremyH]

Yeah somethings up but timing is def not the issue.

V8 motors dont need alot of timing to make alot of power with a turbo.

All my tunes run 16-17 degrees timing max. Its not overly conservative its just safe and no need for more timing like a blower needs.

My 10psi tune made 490rwhp with 16 degrees timing, that was before the frpp manifold.

My first dyno pull at 16psi was rich and had 15 degrees of timing and made 585rwhp. Cleaned up the air fuel and added 2 degrees of timing from 15 to 17, Netted me 70rwhp gain on the second pull.

 

[Full_Tilt]

True.
The reason I asked was because if its reeeeally conservative it will get pretty lumpy.
I dont think this is that conservative, although I would personally be more agressive, but thats just me.

Another though. Where is the signal for the WG coming from? Compressor outelt? Manifold? Cold side charge piping?

 

[AbdullaGT500]

The wastegate signal is coming from the manifold, I'm going to get it retuned after I get the cams taken out and I'll mention it to the tuner. He's more of a blower guy than a turbo guy and that's probably why it's not as smooth as it should be