Thanks for the tips! I have a theory I'm working with here and would love to hear more educated opinions on this. More on this later.
First, regarding brakes, I'm running SS lines, Motul RBF600 fluid, GT500 cooling shields, and Carbotech XP10/XP8 pads. (I have the 14" Brembos) I'm very happy with my brake setup. At Gingerman raceway I was able to outbake Miata and a Rousch Mustang in April. I have not measured my rotor temps yet, but based on pad deposits I'm guessing I'm right at the edge of 1450 deg F rating of the XP10s. I'm debating switching to XP12 next season.
It's probably my bad for not watching the video in full screen watching more closely for nose dive. FWIW, I'm on XP10's all around, but moving up the XP12/XP10 next time around. Stock GT rotor size but with a little ducting aimed at (but not connected to) a fabbed nozzle in the dust shields
I have 19x9.5 wheels and 275/40 tires (Bridgestone Potenza S04). When these go I will likely upgrade to 285/35 BFG Rivals.
S04's seem to be unusually noisy tires. Decent grip, but they can't help telling you all about it. With 285/35's, you'll want wider wheels, possibly as wide as 11" (285/35-18's on 11" wides in my sig pic). This will sharpen turn-in, guaranteed, because you're stiffening up the softest thing in the path from the steering wheel to the ground.
Now as for Sways. Based on my own experiences and conversations with fellow '14 GT Track Pack guy who races regularly, I'm of the opinion that the rear sway of this car needs to be soft to allow as much grip as possible. I'm thinking that with stiffer springs, -1.3 deg camber and adjustable shocks the roll of the car will be subdued by ~35 to 40%. Lowering and more negative camber will also help eliminate understeer. I think I will need a front adjustable bar to fine tune turn-in performance. I want to try it like this and see if I really need a stiffer rear bar. I know someone with this setup who raves about it, and the guy is a great driver.
My goals are:
1) Maintain neutral balance which the car currently has, or push it ever so slightly towards oversteer
2) Maintain or sharpen turn in
3) Maintain the excellent corner exit manners the car has
4) Increase the overall cornering capabilities. I'd like 1.05g sustained with street tires.
5) Allow for adjustability since I DD the car 7 months out of the year, and do 3-4 track days per year.
My thoughts on bar adjustabilities is that the thinner rear bar will have finer adjustments than any front bar, and will have far less effect on overall roll stiffness (meaning less effect to whatever camber you might want to set). If you start out with a mid setting on the rear bar that's close to the OE rear bar rate, you have the flexibility to go either way. Keep in mind that the overall effect of your planned spring swap includes both understeerish effects (more front roll stiffness) and oversteerish effects (less roll and camber change). You've got about a hundred more HP to play with than I do, though . . .
On adjustability for swapping between track and DD . . . I'm betting that tweaking anything other than shock settings will get real old, real quick, and you'll just leave the bar(s) at your track setting(s).
My car also splits duty between track time and year-round daily stuff (though me being retired means that "daily driving" is mostly just where I want to go instead of being mostly where I have to go
). All I play with are the damper settings (track, daily me only, and sometimes still softer settings for when my wife is along for the ride). Near as I can tell thus far, I need to pick up about another second/minute to run even with the SS Camaros.
Norm