Finally made it to the track yesterday!!

[skaarlaj]

Before laughing at me too much, keep in mind I was racing in 8000"+ DA, I'm completely stock in the power dept. I do have M&H drag radials, 3.90 gears, and a wot box.

I had three runs at 8.5, one at 8.6, one at 8.7, and I missed my 3-4 power-shift on one of the runs and dipped into the bottom 9's, my mph's were from 78-83. 60's were from 1.9's to 2.06's. I struggled disabling the advance-trac on the first few passes and my burnouts didn't work out too well when the car started drifting sideways.

Anyways, based on how a street race went between my old red fox body sans nitrous and this 2012 and also knowing the times the fox usually does, I was only expecting an 8.9 at the very best, so over-all I'm very happy, and will do better or more consistent next time now that I know how to disable the goofy advance-track.

Also, for those who want to start directing me on what parts to get my 60' down, know that I'm experiencing zero wheel-hop, and got my best 60' so far with my 2 step set on 3800. I do want more power as well, but improving my 60' will benefit me greater, and truthfully, a 1.9 60' doesn't deserve more power imo, hahaha. I'm thinking bang for the buck being the Roush upper control arm and mount, removing the front sway bar, and adding 90/10 struts in the front??? Also note that the stock shifter and stock clutch are working flawlessly, thank goodness I don't have to spend money on those two things.............yet, hahaha

 

[Five Oh Brian]

8000' DA - holy crap! Converted to sea level and 1/4 mile #'s, you should be able to run 12.0's @ 114, approximately. 1/8 mile at sea level should be around 7.7's @ 88 mph based on your 8000' DA numbers.

Not sure how to improve you 60' times, other than finding a track with a better DA and a willingness to launch at higher rpm's. Although, a set of big & little wheels will help you immensely without adding any more power. I dropped 63 pounds and 2 tenths just by switching to 17x4.5 fronts and 15x10 rears.

 

[skaarlaj]

8000' DA - holy crap! Converted to sea level and 1/4 mile #'s, you should be able to run 12.0's @ 114, approximately. 1/8 mile at sea level should be around 7.7's @ 88 mph based on your 8000' DA numbers.

Not sure how to improve you 60' times, other than finding a track with a better DA and a willingness to launch at higher rpm's. Although, a set of big & little wheels will help you immensely without adding any more power. I dropped 63 pounds and 2 tenths just by switching to 17x4.5 fronts and 15x10 rears.

Hahaha, that helps me be a little more proud of the car. I think it's amazing how this thing is running only a half second slower in the eighth than my old 04 Cobra, that had "alot" of work done to it, and it's still on stock power level. I know a stalled auto would be quicker, but there's something to be said about the fun behind powershifting, and launching decently with a manual. I have never driven a manual car that powershifts nearly as easily as this MT82. If I can keep it from breaking, I think I'll be a happy camper with this car for quite a while!!

 

[skaarlaj]

Well I ordered some SVE 15x10 drag wheels with some 28" tall Hoosier quick time pro bias plys for the little white stang, and hopefully will get my 60's down to the low 1.8's or possibly even better? Again, if the car still doesn't have any wheel hop, and she doesn't squat too darn bad, I really don't see a reason for lower control arms or LCA relocation brackets, however I might do an Upper and mount just because it's supporting as much rotational twist of the axle housing as the lowers and there's only one upper doing the job vs the 2 lowers, Thoughts?

 

[ponys197]

I went to test and tune last night and pulled a 1.88 60ft time off the stock tires with my new 3K stall converter. I pulled a 1.93 60ft on the next pass as well . Going back to tonight with a set of NT 555 drag radials and see what I can do with those.

The suspension stuff I did helped me out. And doing LCA's and adjustable shocks isn't a big investment. I would try that out.

 

[RazorbackMustang]

Well I ordered some SVE 15x10 drag wheels with some 28" tall Hoosier quick time pro bias plys for the little white stang, and hopefully will get my 60's down to the low 1.8's or possibly even better? Again, if the car still doesn't have any wheel hop, and she doesn't squat too darn bad, I really don't see a reason for lower control arms or LCA relocation brackets, however I might do an Upper and mount just because it's supporting as much rotational twist of the axle housing as the lowers and there's only one upper doing the job vs the 2 lowers, Thoughts?

You'll like the bias plys better, I think. I have 15x10 Race Stars with 28 x 10 Hoosier slicks. DA was 2400, 60' was 1.69, went 11.97. Tires at 18 psi cold (I didn't check them after that). I have 3.73 gears. Also have rear LCAs with relocation brackets.

 

[skaarlaj]

I figure the taller side-wall and the sidewall flex from the bias ply will help me out, maybe at least enough to justify the addition of more power one of these days, haha

 

[skaarlaj]

I went to test and tune last night and pulled a 1.88 60ft time off the stock tires with my new 3K stall converter. I pulled a 1.93 60ft on the next pass as well . Going back to tonight with a set of NT 555 drag radials and see what I can do with those.

The suspension stuff I did helped me out. And doing LCA's and adjustable shocks isn't a big investment. I would try that out.

Good job, that's not bad at all for street tires.

 

[RazorbackMustang]

I figure the taller side-wall and the sidewall flex from the bias ply will help me out, maybe at least enough to justify the addition of more power one of these days, haha

With 3.90 gears, you definitely need a 28" tire. With my 3.73 I'm very close to needing 5th gear. Although if you're just racing 1/8, moot point. I'm going to bump the pressure down to 16 to start next time. I think they'll stick a little better.

I have a tune and an off-road H as well. Those are my only other mods.

If you haven't driven on bias ply tires before, make a couple passes to just get used to them before you balls to the wall it. The top end rear sway (with radial fronts) is unnerving at first so you have to use your brain to override the urge to countersteer. Just ride it out, the car is going straight. I caught myself about to counter it on one pass and had to back out.

 

[skaarlaj]

With 3.90 gears, you definitely need a 28" tire. With my 3.73 I'm very close to needing 5th gear. Although if you're just racing 1/8, moot point. I'm going to bump the pressure down to 16 to start next time. I think they'll stick a little better.

I have a tune and an off-road H as well. Those are my only other mods.

If you haven't driven on bias ply tires before, make a couple passes to just get used to them before you balls to the wall it. The top end rear sway (with radial fronts) is unnerving at first so you have to use your brain to override the urge to countersteer. Just ride it out, the car is going straight. I caught myself about to counter it on one pass and had to back out.

Hahaha, yeah I've been on hoosier bias ply slicks on my old 03 Lightning, and just got some M&H bias ply slicks on our Mercedes C63, that ones a little scary, lol!

 

[wbt]

With 3.90 gears, you definitely need a 28" tire. With my 3.73 I'm very close to needing 5th gear. Although if you're just racing 1/8, moot point. I'm going to bump the pressure down to 16 to start next time. I think they'll stick a little better.

I have a tune and an off-road H as well. Those are my only other mods.

If you haven't driven on bias ply tires before, make a couple passes to just get used to them before you balls to the wall it. The top end rear sway (with radial fronts) is unnerving at first so you have to use your brain to override the urge to countersteer. Just ride it out, the car is going straight. I caught myself about to counter it on one pass and had to back out.

Hahaha, yeah I've been on hoosier bias ply slicks on my old 03 Lightning, and just got some M&H bias ply slicks on our Mercedes C63, that ones a little scary, lol!

You should never mix a radial in the front/bias ply in the rear. Big no no.

Manual trans cars need to run a bias ply tire. DR's aren't the way to go there.

Also, with a tune, clutch protection is disabled and RPM limits can be raised. You don't want to have to shift into 5th. Additionally TQ management can be manipulated to keep the throttle from closing.

Once you are there then you will realize how important good suspension parts are needed along with a single piece drive shaft and supporting driveline mods to make the car consistent and reliable.

There is nothing worse than breaking at the track and having to call a tow truck.

 

[RazorbackMustang]

You should never mix a radial in the front/bias ply in the rear. Big no no.

Manual trans cars need to run a bias ply tire. DR's aren't the way to go there.

Also, with a tune, clutch protection is disabled and RPM limits can be raised. You don't want to have to shift into 5th. Additionally TQ management can be manipulated to keep the throttle from closing.

Once you are there then you will realize how important good suspension parts are needed along with a single piece drive shaft and supporting driveline mods to make the car consistent and reliable.

There is nothing worse than breaking at the track and having to call a tow truck.

It really isn't bad. It's definitely something you need to experience on a nice easy pass (read: not going for hero time). But I didn't find it discomforting, just needed to be in control of the car and not let autoresponses take over.

 

[wbt]

It really isn't bad. It's definitely something you need to experience on a nice easy pass (read: not going for hero time). But I didn't find it discomforting, just needed to be in control of the car and not let autoresponses take over.

I have seen people destroy their cars at the track with that setup. It's not worth destroying your car over. Plenty of evidence out there on why not to and I have witnessed it first hand.

 

[RazorbackMustang]

Advice noted. I would posit that an IRS car is vastly different than a solid axle setup. Personally, I plan to get some front drag wheels and tires in the future. Just didn't have the budget for it at this time.

 

[skaarlaj]

Advice noted. I would posit that an IRS car is vastly different than a solid axle setup. Personally, I plan to get some front drag wheels and tires in the future. Just didn't have the budget for it at this time.

Agreed. My C63 with bias ply slicks is hairy to say the least since their sidewall has so much more flex in conjunction with the independent rear causing the rear tires to track nowhere near as straight to each other as a solid axle.

Our Lightning wasn't bad at all with the bias ply slicks in the rear and stock wheels/tires in the front, and I don't expect this 2012 to be too awful, but in time I will have some skinnys on the front and control arms, bla, bla, bla. But I'll take care of it bit by bit. The last thing I want to do is everything at once and get bored with this car within a year, lol

 

[jam07GT]

Does removing the front sway bar make that much difference if you keep the same springs? I measured my front end travel with the sway bar and it was a little under 4". Without the sway bar, it was the same. Or is the front end then able to move faster? On my Chevelle drag car I think I had like 8" of travel, but the front end was dropped way down and it had light, tall springs in it. Just asking, as I am just learning about these cars and how they work suspension-wise.

scott

 

[lindertw]

Does removing the front sway bar make that much difference if you keep the same springs?

you'll have to try it to see what it'll do with your car. at a minimum you can disconnect the links between the sway bar and struts, but you're also losing ~20 lbs by taking the bar/bracket/end links off and installing a lightweight radiator support bracket.