FRPP Iron Forged Short Block in a 2012?

Seer

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Is this a possibility? Do these blocks have provisions for knock sensors?

Can the factory 2012 Knock sensors work with this short block? I see in the description it says this short block requires the 2010 style water pump. Is this the same for the 2012 as well?

Anything else to look at additionally? As a blanket question, is there anything else one would need to get this to work or should it be plug and play?
 

Boozshey

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I dunno man, if it were me, I'd save a few more grand and get a stronger block. L&M would run you around $7k'ish for an aluminum block that will handle 1000hp.

Might not want to settle... :/
 

Seer

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I dunno man, if it were me, I'd save a few more grand and get a stronger block. L&M would run you around $7k'ish for an aluminum block that will handle 1000hp.

Might not want to settle... :/

According to FRPP those handle 1000. I'm pretty much set on throwing on a whipple 4.0 and calling it a day, including fuel etc.
 
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weather man

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O.K. Is the current block hurt and can't work, or your just looking to amp the car up?
 

Seer

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Pretty sure I popped the short block. Fuel pressure sensor came undone during a wot pull. Tons of black smoke at 120mph and oil from somewhere near the rear of the motor all over my undercarriage. Haven't done a tear down yet but when it was running man did it vibrate and run like crap. It basically would barely run for the few seconds I left it on when pulling over.

I haven't assessed the damage yet. I don't know if the block has a hole, heads are damaged etc.

Hoping damage is just contained to the short block only.


As far as trading it in, I don't know. Looks like now I'm going big.
 

weather man

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Ouch! Good luck on putting it back to right!
 

nasty281

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Pretty sure I popped the short block. Fuel pressure sensor came undone during a wot pull. Tons of black smoke at 120mph and oil from somewhere near the rear of the motor all over my undercarriage. Haven't done a tear down yet but when it was running man did it vibrate and run like crap. It basically would barely run for the few seconds I left it on when pulling over.

I haven't assessed the damage yet. I don't know if the block has a hole, heads are damaged etc.

Hoping damage is just contained to the short block only.


As far as trading it in, I don't know. Looks like now I'm going big.

You were trying to sell recently too right? If your keeping this one itll be a beast with a 4.0 tho
 

Seer

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You were trying to sell recently too right? If your keeping this one itll be a beast with a 4.0 tho

If someone met my number I would've sold. Everything is for sale technically :D
 

Boozshey

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According to FRPP those handle 1000. I'm pretty much set on throwing on a whipple 4.0 and calling it a day, including fuel etc.

Reference? That seems like a stock gt500 sb to me.
 

Seer

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Reference? That seems like a stock gt500 sb to me.

Far from it. I think its closer to a Cobra Jet SB. Guys on other sites who have run this SB have been able to spin it up to 7800 rpm with an upgraded valve train.

http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/5_4L_FORGED_IRON_SHORT_BLOCK_p/m-6009-c54sc4.htm

Brand New Ford Shelby GT500 5.4L Cast Iron Block
Ford Forged Steel 8-bolt Crankshaft M-6303-M54
Manley 4340 Forged Steel H-beam Connecting Rods with ARP Rod Bolts
Mahle Forged Aluminum 16cc dish pistons

Brand New Oil Pump Installed
Other misc. parts
Approximately 8.1:1 compression ratio when used with SVT Mustang 4V 5.4L 52.7cc heads
Approximately 8.9:1 compression ratio when used with Lightning 2V 43.9cc heads
Built with these upgraded all NEW PARTS
Will accept 2V and 4V cylinder heads
Will not work with 3 valve cylinder heads
Block configured for use with 2007-2010 SVT Mustang water pump
 
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stkjock

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my :2cents: I would not go from Alum block to iron. When I redid mine I considered going alum, but it would have added $2500 to the build at the time and the costs were getting beyond where I wanted to be at the time. ( I had just bot the car a few weeks prior).

tear down the short block and see if the block is usable - if it is - I'd rebuild that block and would agree L&M would set you up right.

also upgrade your oil pump to a TSS billet gear set would be my suggestion

another thing to consider - the FRPP s/b doesn't seem to have a double key crank - IMO with a 4.0 blower that's something you'd like to have.

and lastly... meh to the CR.... mine is at 9.5:1
 

Seer

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my :2cents: I would not go from Alum block to iron. When I redid mine I considered going alum, but it would have added $2500 to the build at the time and the costs were getting beyond where I wanted to be at the time. ( I had just bot the car a few weeks prior).

tear down the short block and see if the block is usable - if it is - I'd rebuild that block and would agree L&M would set you up right.

also upgrade your oil pump to a TSS billet gear set would be my suggestion

another thing to consider - the FRPP s/b doesn't seem to have a double key crank - IMO with a 4.0 blower that's something you'd like to have.

and lastly... meh to the CR.... mine is at 9.5:1


Big IF on if the block is reusable. I cannot figure out where all of the oil is coming from, but at the same time, I didn't give it a good look either.

Oil pump is on the list :D
 

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Interesting, had oil all in the throttle body
 

BadPiggy

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Curious.
Will this block drop inside a 05-09 model?
What is the difference between this block and the Brenspeed 326 block?
I think the Brenspeed will use 3v heads.
Definitely watching this thread.

Sub'd
 
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