01yellerCobra
forum member
Before I embark on the joys of troubleshooting wiring with redfirepearlGT I thought I would post up about this issue to see if anyone else has found a fix that was out of the box. Plus I'll try to keep the thread updated on the steps taken and results. Unless I "accidentally" set the car on fire before it's fixed.
The car is a 2006 GT. 99.9% stock. Stock fuel system, stock wiring, and a stock tune. It has the issue where the fuel gauge will drop to empty and the 0 miles to empty warning comes on. The real issue is that this causes the CEL. Which is a problem since I need to get the car smogged soon.
When the problem first happened I picked up a new sending unit for the drivers side and wired it in. Then the problem seemed to only happen between a full and half tank. At that point I swapped the entire sending module on the passenger side. The problem persisted and slowly got worse. In a 2 mile drive it would beep 5 times. The fuel level seemed to stop mattering. So last weekend I picked up a full module from Amazon. It was a Spectre brand, but as I wasn't sure it would fix the problem I was leery of spending $300+ on a Motorcraft unit. I installed the module and all seemed well for 4 days. Then yesterday (Thursday) the wife comes home and tells me the problem was back. Yesterday I pulled the driver side rear interior panel to check the wiring. I first checked the wiring around the plug for obvious damage. I didn't see any so I did a continuity check between the terminal about an inch back on the wire. No breaks found. Today I went as far as plugging the old module back in and manually worked the arm and watched the fuel gauge follow the arm. For the most part. A couple times it seemed to get stuck around 1/4 tank. Even though I know there's 1/2 tank in there. I plugged the module that's currently in the tank back in and messed with the arm and had the same results.
Something else is that the car would sputter and buck a little when the fuel level would drop. Since everything comes from the same plug that's what had me thinking a possible wire issue. I pulled the plug apart and cleaned and pinched the terminals for a better contact. I must've done something right because my wife said when the fuel level dropped this last time the car didn't sputter or buck.
After I got tired of it I put the lower seat back in then turned the key to on without the engine running. The gauge showed half full. Cool. But then after about a minute it went back down to quarter tank. I also checked for codes and got two body codes. B2627 and B2879. From my quick search I believe those have to do with the VCT and I'm assuming it's something to do with a test as that hasn't been a problem. Yet.
We've had the typical SJB issues in the past with it getting wet. But pulling it apart and drying it fixed the issues at the time. I'm assuming the gauges run through the SJB. I'm really hoping it's not the issue.
I think that's everything up to this point.
The car is a 2006 GT. 99.9% stock. Stock fuel system, stock wiring, and a stock tune. It has the issue where the fuel gauge will drop to empty and the 0 miles to empty warning comes on. The real issue is that this causes the CEL. Which is a problem since I need to get the car smogged soon.
When the problem first happened I picked up a new sending unit for the drivers side and wired it in. Then the problem seemed to only happen between a full and half tank. At that point I swapped the entire sending module on the passenger side. The problem persisted and slowly got worse. In a 2 mile drive it would beep 5 times. The fuel level seemed to stop mattering. So last weekend I picked up a full module from Amazon. It was a Spectre brand, but as I wasn't sure it would fix the problem I was leery of spending $300+ on a Motorcraft unit. I installed the module and all seemed well for 4 days. Then yesterday (Thursday) the wife comes home and tells me the problem was back. Yesterday I pulled the driver side rear interior panel to check the wiring. I first checked the wiring around the plug for obvious damage. I didn't see any so I did a continuity check between the terminal about an inch back on the wire. No breaks found. Today I went as far as plugging the old module back in and manually worked the arm and watched the fuel gauge follow the arm. For the most part. A couple times it seemed to get stuck around 1/4 tank. Even though I know there's 1/2 tank in there. I plugged the module that's currently in the tank back in and messed with the arm and had the same results.
Something else is that the car would sputter and buck a little when the fuel level would drop. Since everything comes from the same plug that's what had me thinking a possible wire issue. I pulled the plug apart and cleaned and pinched the terminals for a better contact. I must've done something right because my wife said when the fuel level dropped this last time the car didn't sputter or buck.
After I got tired of it I put the lower seat back in then turned the key to on without the engine running. The gauge showed half full. Cool. But then after about a minute it went back down to quarter tank. I also checked for codes and got two body codes. B2627 and B2879. From my quick search I believe those have to do with the VCT and I'm assuming it's something to do with a test as that hasn't been a problem. Yet.
We've had the typical SJB issues in the past with it getting wet. But pulling it apart and drying it fixed the issues at the time. I'm assuming the gauges run through the SJB. I'm really hoping it's not the issue.
I think that's everything up to this point.