Gear Oil in cold weather

[cekim]

Ok, I have lived up north for more than 10 years, but I have never asked this stupid question (or even thought about it until now) - so here goes...

It is near 0deg in my garage and I am filling up my rear-end with gear oil and I realize that it is now the consistency of molasis. I can literally put a spoonfull on my thumb and it won't roll off...

Now when I asked Moser and Currie what oil to use they suggested high torque apps should use 85/140 gear oil...

However, they may have been assuming that one would not be driving a "high torque app" in 0 deg conditions...

Anyone from up north have any thoughts on whether I need go with a lighter oil during the winter?

 

[MikeVistaBlue06]

I would consult these dudes:

www.bobistheoilguy.com

I would think the weight called out in the owners manual would be what to use and get that weight in a fully synthetic gear oil such as Mobil 1 or something equivalent. Synthetics will flow much easier in in extreme cold conditions like you describe.

Redline and/or Royal Purple may be synthetics that will work as well.

Also, with an LSD in these cars you need to add the LSD additive as well.

Hope this helps.

Mike

 

[cekim]

I would think the weight called out in the owners manual would be what to use and get that weight in a fully synthetic gear oil such as Mobil 1 or something equivalent.

I am just a smidge outside the "stock" configuration (9" rear). Thus my problem...

This is not a LSD either (true-track). The manufacturer of the rear-end (Moser + Eaton) actually suggests not using synthetics particularly for break-in. I have not checked to see of Currie also calls for a non-sythetic oil or not - I know they sell something they like, but I have not looked at its specs other than weight (also 85/140)

I am breaking in a new center section - if it was already broken in, I would go ahead and use a synthetic...

I won't ordinarily drive a lot in winter, but I need to get this setup broken in and move on to other parts...

 

[GIG4FUN]

simple... warm up the oil (grease haha) and put it in. GO for a nice drive...

 

[cekim]

simple... warm up the oil (grease haha) and put it in. GO for a nice drive...

"I am sorry Ossifer, I had to go that fast, my gear oil was cold - what else could I do?"

 

[GIG4FUN]

Well you know what happens to people that get in a rush. They do the wrong thing OR make a mistake. I think you are trying hard to make a mistake. Let it wait. That's my advice now.

 

[MikeVistaBlue06]

Ok, I have lived up north for more than 10 years, but I have never asked this stupid question (or even thought about it until now) - so here goes...

It is near 0deg in my garage and I am filling up my rear-end with gear oil and I realize that it is now the consistency of molasis. I can literally put a spoonfull on my thumb and it won't roll off...

Now when I asked Moser and Currie what oil to use they suggested high torque apps should use 85/140 gear oil...

However, they may have been assuming that one would not be driving a "high torque app" in 0 deg conditions...

Anyone from up north have any thoughts on whether I need go with a lighter oil during the winter?

Ah..that is a mite different. You know it makes you wonder why Ford quit using that bullet proof rearend. You'd be able to make gear changes in a few minutes by yanking the axles, pulling the punkin' and putting another one back in. I wished they'd never gone away from that one!

Since it is really cold up your way, a thinner "regular" gear lube should do the trick.

Most non synthetics are showng 80W-90 while most of the synthetics are showing 75W-90.

A larger number at the end implies more viscosity index (VI) improvers that activate with heat. Conversely they turn to gel at temperatures like you are experiencing!

This might be helpful as well (however it may be biased by whomever paid for it!):

http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/Gear%20Lube%20White%20Paper.pdf

Mike

 

[cekim]

Well you know what happens to people that get in a rush. They do the wrong thing OR make a mistake. I think you are trying hard to make a mistake. Let it wait. That's my advice now.

You are no fun at all...

Just ran into another snag that means I have to wait until tomorrow to fire it up anyway, so I will hold off with the lube... I have already asked them once what oil to use, so now its a question of whether they would give me a different answer if I said I was running in 0-20F weather... Thought perhaps someone around here might know that - I grew up down south - "cold" just was never an issue...

You know it makes you wonder why Ford quit using that bullet proof rearend.

Cost of manufacturing and possibly assembly. Stamped housing requires welds the cast housing does not. With the expensive tool set Ford has shimming up the 8.8 is about the same difficulty/time as the very easy 9" housing...

This is one of the many places where engineering meets cost management/economy of scale and strange things pop out the other side...

 

[GIG4FUN]

Well you know what happens to people that get in a rush. They do the wrong thing OR make a mistake. I think you are trying hard to make a mistake. Let it wait. That's my advice now.

You are no fun at all...

well Mike... I know it, I also know you are lots smarter tham me. I know you would give me that kind of advice in a heartbeat! I understand your frustration with quite a few things going on there. I wish you well. AND warmer weather I am freezing my ass off here in Iowa as well.

 

[cekim]

well Mike... I know it, I also know you are lots smarter tham me. I know you would give me that kind of advice in a heartbeat! I understand your frustration with quite a few things going on there. I wish you well. AND warmer weather I am freezing my ass off here in Iowa as well.

Thanks, I pretty much knew my evening was blown when I opened the up the bottle of gear oil to wet the splines and bearings for installation...

 

[rog06gt]

Cekim,
I have taken my car out at 15F for a leg stretch whenever the road is dry, my garage is non heated about 50F in there, running Royal Purple 75-140, no problem at all, the only thing I do is I make sure that I take it easy the first 15-20 minutes until everything is warmed up then I stomp on it...
Done that in my 911 and my 'stang for the past 2 years, this winter in Minnesota and last year in Toronto...
Stop worrying and enjoy your car!
Cheers

 

[don_w]

The manufacturer of the rear-end (Moser + Eaton) actually suggests not using synthetics particularly for break-in.

I am breaking in a new center section - if it was already broken in, I would go ahead and use a synthetic...

FWIW, the guys that did my rear gears absolutely will not use synthetic gear oil. And they build many types of rear ends... street cars, drag cars, off road trucks, etc. Below is a quote from their website, http://sdgearaxle.com/index.html:

Tip #2 Oil recommendations. We have found that synthetic gear oil generally does not have the correct properties to allow a long life for the gear set in the differential. We recommend using quality petroleum based gear oil. We use Schaeffer’s oils in our work. Stay away from the cheap gear oil; it will only end up costing you a lot more down the road. In rear ends we use a 140 wt while in front ends we use a 90 wt. If you’re differential is equipped with a L.S.D. (limited slip differential), posi, trac lock, etc. then you will need to add a bottle of friction modifier or you will experience a chattering effect going around turns and could damage the L.S.D.

 

[dustindu4]

However, they may have been assuming that one would not be driving a "high torque app" in 0 deg conditions...

I think currie understands that EVERYBODY who puts their 9" rear end in a car that it's a high torque application