Getting 750 RWHP to the ground with a little help from BMR

[Synister500]

Oh it's fixed and street tune is done. With the 3.25" pulley and 93 octane it made 730 rwhp and 660 rwtq at 18 psi on a mustang dyno. We are setting up the race tune with a 3.0 pulley, should be 21-22 psi and over 800 rwhp on race fuel. I go back to the dyno July 22nd.

http://youtu.be/ut29x8Wl_fQ

 

[Synister500]

Radiator support is a breeze to install. 20 mins to remove and install. The directions from BMR are easily followed.

The K-member is out and ready to swap components. The weight difference in this thing is crazy. I don't have a scale to weigh them but it has been posted.

Got space? Lol!

 

[warpig12354]

Where else is there motor mounts holding the engine in with the k member out?

 

[Synister500]

It is being held from up top. I have a brace that goes across the strut tower to hold the motor and I have a engine hoist as a back up.

 

[RetroGT2006]

What a build bro, this thing is nasty!

 

[Surfstang2020]

Coming along good man !

 

[Synister500]

Everything is together and looks great. I'm having a few clearance issues such as my headers are touching the stock A-arm bracket on the passenger side and my steering shaft. I believe the motor is too far to the right so that should be a easy fix. I had an alignment done yesterday and everything suspension wise is lined up perfect. I do notice more noise and some vibration in the cabin area. However, my car is extremely loud to begin with so I expected that. The only conflict I had with BMR instructions was they have you install the EPAS unit before the A-arms. If you do this you cannot insert the bolts for the arm supplied by BMR because they are too long. The weight difference is very noticeable when handling both the stock and BMR unit. I believe the weight savings is like 35 lbs, that doesn't sound like much until you are holding it in your hands.

Installed with chassis brace:

In all honesty I will say that, if you cannot live with an increase in noise and vibration in the cabin area then I would not recommend this for a street car, it is a race inspired product.

 

[Saleen S281]

sub'd, good luck!

 

[BMR Tech]

Looks good BJ!

Couple things:

-You can install the the Rack first, then the A-Arms. That is how we do it. You have to install the bolt from the back of the car, towards the front (opposite of how you have the bolts) I do agree though, we probably should not recommend the rack going on first, OR we should tell them to install the bolt from the back.

-Some advice, swap the rack bolts around, to where the bolt-head is on the bottom/k-member side, and the nut on the rack side. It will provide you with more clearance, and it looks much cleaner, IMO.

-One of the primaries is hitting the a-arm/bracket? Both sides? I apologize for that, honestly, we have not tested your specific K-Member (Shelby 1000 Spec) on a combo with stock arms, as we developed the entire front end package together for the Shelby 1000 application. Please send me some detailed pics to my email sir of the clearance issue.

I am glad you are happy, and yes, there is definitely an increase in NVH with that system. The NVH increase is primarily due to the small poly engine mounts.

 

[Seer]

Looks good BJ!

Couple things:

-You can install the the Rack first, then the A-Arms. That is how we do it. You have to install the bolt from the back of the car, towards the front (opposite of how you have the bolts) I do agree though, we probably should not recommend the rack going on first, OR we should tell them to install the bolt from the back.

-Some advice, swap the rack bolts around, to where the bolt-head is on the bottom/k-member side, and the nut on the rack side. It will provide you with more clearance, and it looks much cleaner, IMO.

-One of the primaries is hitting the a-arm/bracket? Both sides? I apologize for that, honestly, we have not tested your specific K-Member (Shelby 1000 Spec) on a combo with stock arms, as we developed the entire front end package together for the Shelby 1000 application. Please send me some detailed pics to my email sir of the clearance issue.

I am glad you are happy, and yes, there is definitely an increase in NVH with that system. The NVH increase is primarily due to the small poly engine mounts.

If his is a KM020, I'm running it with stock arms. Works fine.

 

[BMR Tech]

If his is a KM020, I'm running it with stock arms. Works fine.

Hmmm....

I just looked up his order, and it is the KM020.

Maybe it is the headers? Not that, it's a bad thing....because the header companies cannot be expected to make pieces that clear, even with a 1/2" dropped engine.

Seer, what headers do you run? BJ, what headers are those?

 

[Synister500]

Mine are kooks with 1 7/8" primaries. Like I said though I believe it's a matter of the motor sitting to far to the right. I have plenty of clearance on the left side except where the steering shaft goes through the headers.

Here is where the header is hitting the a-arm bracket. The top ring of the A-arm mount. It flanges up and is hitting the top portion of the rear ring. I have a couple days off coming up. I'll jump in and get it figured it and let you know Kelly. You've always been a big help.

 

[BMR Tech]

Keep me updated sir.

You may be able to shift the K-Member a little, where it bolts to the chassis, but....if it is the actual engine "cocked"...that wouldnt be a smart move.

BJ, did you check/ensure there is nothing interfering with the engine height? I do know, I had a customer who said his oilpan was sitting on a harness between the oil pan and the rack, causing the engine to tilt. May wanna check all that sir.

 

[Synister500]

Kelly, you remember how bad the box was damaged? I hope that's not an issue.

 

[Seer]

Hmmm....

I just looked up his order, and it is the KM020.

Maybe it is the headers? Not that, it's a bad thing....because the header companies cannot be expected to make pieces that clear, even with a 1/2" dropped engine.

Seer, what headers do you run? BJ, what headers are those?

Running a 2" primary header.

My K Member has also been spaced though with the whipple spacer kit. 3/4"

 

[BMR Tech]

Kelly, you remember how bad the box was damaged? I hope that's not an issue.

I highly doubt it.

If the K-Member bolted-up without modifying it, then that is definitely not the issue.

 

[Synister500]

I highly doubt it.

If the K-Member bolted-up without modifying it, then that is definitely not the issue.

Got ya. Just thinking outside the box.

 

[Justinjor]

Nice build. Looking forward to results

 

[GreenTerror]

Looks nice! I never know if I should grin or pray when the go wot on the dyno during tuning, its a lot of cash if something goes wrong.

 

[Scott]

Looking great! Was there a reason you did not go with BMR tubular A-Arms?