Getting ready to lower the car....

[KoolerSL2]

guys im almost to the point of lowering my car.
heres a couple questions i want to ask.

1. is there lowering springs that can work on stock struts/shocks?
2. what would be a cost effective lowering? ( brand springs & Struts/Shocks )

Car is a daily driver that will see some time on the strip but mainly daily use and some cruising and shows.

and im staying with 18" wheels but will be a staggered fitament with stock height tires.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

You may want to post that in the main forum section, since your needs will be quite a bit different than what most of the denizens in this here dungeon are looking for...

There is a LOT to consider when lowering the S197, primarily having to do with suspension geometry alteration (roll centers, instant centers, anti-squat/anti-dive, etc.), and if you're planning on dropping more than about an inch, doing it properly will cost a lot more than I suspect you're budgeting. For drag racing, your spring and damper needs are completely different than what we're looking for when carving corners at the road course or autocross track.

 

[KoolerSL2]

thanks for the info dave.
i figured id ask in here though since i would like my car to handle well as i live on some curvy back roads.
im budgeting around a grand to do everything for now.

 

[TexasKyle]

I did the Steeda Ultralites. Nice noticeble drop, but not slammed. Now, what Dave said is true. You will spend more money than you think doing it properly. You will need an adjustable panhard bar for the rear, to recenter it. You will more than likely need a front end alignment. The problem with that is there may not be enough adjustment in the front to be able to do it. Camber/caster plates or bolts (or both) will be required as well.

At least, all those were required for my car to get it back where it needed to be.

 

[Melvin's Fly]

I got FRPP springs, shocks, struts, and rear sway bar and that lowered her about 1.5". I did the install myself, but I did get camber bolts and got her an alignment immediately after lowering. I'm running 18" rims and staggered, and mine is just fine. I am looking into a panhard bar or watts linkage, but at 1.5" it's not that big of an issue. I'm pretty sure I paid less than $1k for everything also - but it helps by doing the actual install yourself.

 

[Bizzyb0nes]

For daily driving...I like the steeda ultralites, im sure you would be just fine with eibachs or H&R's...I would suggest, if you have $1000 to spend...even if you have to wait...buy Koni's. I've been told the Koni SRT's are as nice as my Bilsteins that are $200 more

Springs - $250
Koni SRT Shocks - $450
Steeda Mounts - $300

Your welcome for me spending your money LOL...the PHB will need to be done too, UMI has some pretty nice stuff for a great price. I'd highly suggest giving Stranoparts.com a chance...Sam has been super great to deal with

 

[Random Asshole]

Steve Poe has an entire frpp setup in the classifieds from one of his donor cars in the classifieds for dirt cheap..

 

[Sam Strano]

For daily driving...I like the steeda ultralites, im sure you would be just fine with eibachs or H&R's...I would suggest, if you have $1000 to spend...even if you have to wait...buy Koni's. I've been told the Koni SRT's are as nice as my Bilsteins that are $200 more

Springs - $250
Koni SRT Shocks - $450
Steeda Mounts - $300

Your welcome for me spending your money LOL...the PHB will need to be done too, UMI has some pretty nice stuff for a great price. I'd highly suggest giving Stranoparts.com a chance...Sam has been super great to deal with

Hey Bizzybones: Thanks, I'm glad you've been happy with my service!

Those three items are what you want to do all the work @ once, take care of the weak factory mounts, and give you camber adjustment.

The good news for you is that the Steeda springs (I have both Sport and Ultralites in stock), and the HD mounts both have free shipping. And the Koni's are not $450, but on sale for $369.....

So you'd be looking at $928.98 in total.

And adjustable PHB isn't a bad idea at all, I can't say it's 100% necessary (for that matter neither are the HD Mounts). The difference is a PHB is easily added later, and not having an adjustable one doesn't mess up your wheel alignment where as the stock upper mounts are more critical to change first IMHO.

 

[TexasKyle]

I mentioned the PHB because I know, specifically with the Ultralites, the rear of the car will push over towards the passenger tire about 3/4" (if I remember correctly the measurement) It didn't hurt anything, I drove it like that for a while before noticing it.

 

[Sam Strano]

I don't disagree that it's something to think about and eventually do (if not moving to a Watts link anyway). But I can't call it critical--and you seem to agree since you said you drove it like that and even took you a while to notice.

 

[TexasKyle]

I don't disagree that it's something to think about and eventually do (if not moving to a Watts link anyway). But I can't call it critical--and you seem to agree since you said you drove it like that and even took you a while to notice.

Oh, I absolutely agree. I wasn't arguing with you. I have no doubt you know more about suspension(s) and setups than I do.

 

[alloy6ix]

I mentioned the PHB because I know, specifically with the Ultralites, the rear of the car will push over towards the passenger tire about 3/4" (if I remember correctly the measurement) It didn't hurt anything, I drove it like that for a while before noticing it.

Welp. looks like I need one of those real soon. Damn. Ultralites in the only in the back here.

 

[RedFire07GT]

When i lowered my car with the FRPP 1.5" drop all around i also added GT500 Strut Mounts. There stiffer then the GTs. Also did an alignment after bc my camber was off. Used the Eibach Camber Bolts.

 

[Sam Strano]

The stiffer strut mounts don't make them any more durable. The rubber is not what fails, it's the fit between the upper and lower portion of the mount. GT500 mounts will ride a bit more firmly (so will HD Mounts), but the GT500's are of the same design as the stock mounts, including the failure mode that's inherent in them.

 

[Stangmeister9]

i went with the H&R Race Springs which are a little stiffer, but run the softer Tociko blues and have real good experience with them. i track my mustang once a month for the last year and have a real nice nuetral feel. granted i used Steeda F/R sway bars and the adjustable PHB. but it was all not installed at the same time. the tokicos were dirt cheap, but will eventually give way to some koni. good luck, there is an infinit number of combos one could go with.