Help me into the 12's

808muscle

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My car is a daily driver, blower, cams etc.... Its also takes 75-100 passes a year. This 4.6 is a mule. Race it, drive it home it will be fine.
 

porkipine

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Ive been away... Carlisle, then went for schooling on hybrids... I had time to think. DR's are obviously needed, recommendations for 8/12x18 wheel or 10x18 wheel.... 305's will they fit?

I left out a few mods, it does have relocation brackets on it, delete plates... Probably more... Changing suspension, gears, convertor is not a problem either... Give me tire advice, 27-29 inch tall, what do you suggest?
 
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Noclutch

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I was a 12.8-9 109mph daily driver on factory rubber. It took cams, headers, c&l intake, lower control arms adjustable upper. I had a brenspeed tune. Auto with stock converter. The key was a 1.8 60' what they are trying to tell you is the truth. You need lots of seat time and grip. Get the dr's and shocks. I was full weight and shaker in the trunk. You can do it.
 

daveyboy

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I went 12.88 with just gears, converter and a tune. Goodyear Mud and snow tires, and it was daily driven. with that MPH you should be somewhere in the mid 12s if you can get some sort of traction. What is your air pressure in the rear tires?
 
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porkipine

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Thanks to all for advice, springs were changed to stock, front sway bar removed, tire pressure stays at 32psi, always 3/4 tank of gas... Its a long drive home... Best so far is 13.000... I borrowed a set of DR's, 28.8 tall, killed my gearing, car ran the same 60ft, same mph

Yeah... 13.000, all runs were on very hot days, no cool off time

Gears, converter, cams, even a procharger is waiting...
 
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ski

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All you need now to dip into the 12's is a lower D/A, like someone else mentioned. And good track prep.
 

808muscle

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Torque convertor! Your current 60 ft's will not improve with better tires much at all. You cannot launch with any higher rpm with an auto to see the benefits. Auto cars are totally different than manuals. Only a TC with a higher stall will allow you to launch harder. You can see 3-4 tenths with one too on your ETs.
 

porkipine

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Torque converter is needed, i agree. Gears, DR's, i agree... Something ive noticed, leaving at idle speed, the engine hesitates, ie, its like i floor it, lift off throttle, then floor it again... Is this a tune issue? Only using a sct tuner now... Long tubes place the o2's further back... Bringing the engine against the stock convertor... Its not there.... Blows the tires away tho... It has a new throttle body, plugs, no cats, new 400 lph fuel pump.. No codes, no misfires reported... Any advice?
 

porkipine

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I think i just realized the answer to my question... It goes real lean, then the o2's respond. Btw, i didnt have this issue with shorty headers
 

ski

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No solution to your hesitation problem.
However, the O2 sensors should not be causing it, because the ECM is designed to go into open mode during WOT and it ignores the O2 sensor data.
 
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ski

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See if resetting the KAM, and recalibrating the accelerator pedal/throttle body helps.
 

porkipine

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I installed a used 3000 stall converter... 50 miles later, od light started flashing. P0741 code, oh well. Launched it twice on backroad... Works well, 3rd time, wasnt happy, spit fluid out vent, grinding noise... Towed to shop. Fluid is still red, no metal or metallic in fluid, original converter was reinstalled... Same noise, flow control valve malfunction located in the front pump? New pump will be installed shortly
 

porkipine

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Tci converter, 60k miles... Noise still present after pump replaced. Valve body is spotless.
 

porkipine

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Solenoid pack cured noise issue, p0732 code showed up, trans is being replaced with a spare trans... Until i have time to go thru the trans completely. It has been suggested i need to tune for stall speed, this may be why it set a torque converter slippage code, p0741
 

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