How Do I Break-In Internals with Turbo Install

[raredesign]

My turbo kit will be arriving shortly, but I decided to go with forged internals; probably the MMR 900 rotating assembly.

How do you properly break in the internals, but install a turbo and tune it? Is there a really low wastegate spring that disables boost so I can drive untuned until I put on enough easy miles, and then put a spring in and tune it?

Thanks

 

[Taxman]

In before somebody tells you this isn't tech.

 

[def67]

Good job Taxman, you're a fucking hero!

 

[Devcon 7]

1) Pray that mmr didnt send you a shit motor
2) read this http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[raredesign]

1) Pray that mmr didnt send you a shit motor
2) read this http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Thank you. I had read a very similar article before, but wasn't certain if it was unofficial. Do you or anyone else here have personal experience with this method, so I can know for certain that it is proven for long term results?

Regarding MMR, I have read a bunch of both good and bad reviews, but it seems most of the bad reports were regarding a full block assembly, but the parts were fine. I am only looking to buy the rotating assembly. If the thought is to piece it together separately, what crank would you go with that wouldn't require grinding?

 

[stkjock]

Is there a really low wastegate spring that disables boost so I can drive untuned until I put on enough easy miles, and then put a spring in and tune it?

Thanks

Better buy a second motor if you're going to do that.

also break in and easy miles... bad choice.

 

[jodadejss06gt]

I would either try to get the kit fully on and tuned and then pull the motor to have it done or leave the kit off, put the motor in, break it in, then install turbo. I tried to change too much plus do a motor at the same time and I paid the price because I'm assuming the tune was off and it wasn't broken in hard enough and I had to pull the motor and have it rehoned and re-ringed.

 

[raredesign]

As long as everyone agrees that the procedure outlined in http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm is correct, then that puts me at ease.

It seems the rotating assembly can be installed, and broken in on the dyno per the above link. Then the turbo installed and tuned.

Thanks all.

 

[Taxman]

Good job Taxman, you're a fucking hero!

Here to please...

 

[my07silvergt]

leave the kit off, put the motor in, break it in, then install turbo.

this is what I did with my new motor/blower and haven't had issues with it. A buddy of mine put his new motor in and broke it in with the blower on it and he's had multiple issues with the motor. Both of our shortblocks came from mmr, I'm happy with mine.

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

The mototune way to break in a motor is THE ONLY WAY to do it correctly. You can actually feel it building power with each run.

 

[eighty6gt]

If the bores are finished properly the (moly) rings should be done whatever they'll do in a few moments. Means that any special voodoo witch doctor special process you wind up doing won't make much difference.

 

[tnsaleen]

So per the link above, is it recommended that a boosted motor be broke in in N/A form and then the turbo or blower be installed? And I guess on the street you would do a few pulls through 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear to roughly 3500 RPM and then decel on its own, and repeat the process two additional times?

I plan on using Lito for tuning. Would this method be used AFTER the initial start (basically the second tune you would recieve from him) up tune where you're only datalogging say the first 30 seconds of run time?

My initial thoughts is with the fuel system and not boost there is the potential to washing out the cylinder walls with fuel.

 

[mach828]

WOT

 

[tnsaleen]

I meant WOT to roughly 3500 RPM?

 

[stkjock]

6500

 

[01yellerCobra]

Depends on if your FI tune is dialed in already. My last engine was broken in with boost since the tune was already done. Fired it up once to make sure it didn't leak. Shut it down and changed the oil. Drove around the block to make sure everything was ok. Hit the on ramp and gave it full boost in 3rd gear. Did that a few times. That was within the first 1/2 mile. The engine turned 100 miles on the dyno a week later.

 

[Devcon 7]

My last couple motors I started them than drained the oil, after that went and followed the procedures I gave you in the link, changed the oil, than gave it HELLLL. Tell lito what you're wanting to do and see what he suggests.

 

[saleen07gt]

If it were me I would break it in without the turbo, use conventional oil, use a magnetic drain plug, let the motor come up to opperating temp, accelerate it up to half of your max rpm range (driving it of course), bring it back, let it cool down, take it out and give it hell. If it will be a daily driver, get the breakin oil out of by 1,000 miles. This method has always worked for me. I usually switch to full synthetic after this.

 

[Marble]

For mine I did a combo of #1 and #2. It was broken in on the dyno and a base tune was made. Tuner made 1-2 WOT pulls. He then richened the tune slightly and sent me on my way for about a 400 miles round trip. Instructions were to go WOT to about 4500 occasionally and let the engine decel down to a low speed. He really stressed the decel.

I have about 30k on the motor with over 500 rwhp and it runs like the day I brought it home. No oil burning or consumption and makes good power.