HOW TO GET THE MOST BOLT ON POWER FROM MY MUSTANG GT

[Monkeyporn]

Hi Mustang Family I need a little help. I'd like to see if I can get a little more umfff out my mustang GT while still keeping it NA and doing just bolt ons. Right now I've got a SCT 91 tuner that came with the car. I don't known anything about the tune except for the tuner itself is very old, SLP Loud Mouth Cat Back, DSS one pice aluminum driveshaft and a Cervinis ram air hood. I must keep in mind that Arizona is an emission state so I have to stay compliant to pass inspection. With that in mind please give me some ideas for some bolt on power.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

These links to my site might inspire you:

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/S197_Bolt_Ons.htm

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/Dyno.html

This is where I am with N/A bolt ons:

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/Parts.html

 

[Monkeyporn]

These links to my site might inspire you:

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/S197_Bolt_Ons.htm

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/Dyno.html

This is where I am with N/A bolt ons:

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/Parts.html

Hey Dino yeah you've done a lot more than I want to.....I also need opinions of what mods are worth it and which aren't because money doesn't grow on trees. I also need ideas of what shop to get a good custom tune in Phoenix Az.

 

[Dan07]

How about replacing the rear gears. The car is fun with 4:10s just have to shift a lot

 

[Monkeyporn]

How about replacing the rear gears. The car is fun with 4:10s just have to shift a lot

YEAH Gears are on my list of things I want to do. I'm think of going with 3.73 since my cars an auto. I feel their a good medium between fuel economy and performance.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

YEAH Gears are on my list of things I want to do. I'm think of going with 3.73 since my cars an auto. I feel their a good medium between fuel economy and performance.

Since yours is an auto, I'd suggest you go 4.10s and upgrade to a TCI 3000rpm stall torque converter. These two mods alone will really wake up the car.
For a tune, go to none other than Lito. Shoot an email to [email protected]

 

[Pentalab]

LT's is one mod that was a real wake up call. But dunno if they will pass in AZ.
The 5r5ss automatic already has lower gears in 2nd and 3rd, vs the manual.

My 2010 auto came with a 5r55s..and a 3.31 rear axle gear. You would need a 3.73 rear axle gear in a manual to be the same as my auto in 2nd gear. And you would need a 3.90 rear axle gear in a manual, to be the same as my auto in 3rd gear.

If you install a 4.10 rear axle gear, all your max speeds in each gear will be exactly 80% of what they are now. (and 88.7% if a 3.73 rear gear used).

3.31 / 4.10 = .8
3.31 / 3.73 = .887

 

[Monkeyporn]

LT's is one mod that was a real wake up call. But dunno if they will pass in AZ.
The 5r5ss automatic already has lower gears in 2nd and 3rd, vs the manual.

My 2010 auto came with a 5r55s..and a 3.31 rear axle gear. You would need a 3.73 rear axle gear in a manual to be the same as my auto in 2nd gear. And you would need a 3.90 rear axle gear in a manual, to be the same as my auto in 3rd gear.

If you install a 4.10 rear axle gear, all your max speeds in each gear will be exactly 80% of what they are now. (and 88.7% if a 3.73 rear gear used).

3.31 / 4.10 = .8
3.31 / 3.73 = .887

Pentalab you sound very knowledgeable about this, as for my car it's the same as yours 3.31 gear and auto. So what gear would you recommend ?

 

[GriffX]

and, while you are in there, an Eaton Trutrak differential. You will love it from the first corner.

 

[Pentalab]

Pentalab you sound very knowledgeable about this, as for my car it's the same as yours 3.31 gear and auto. So what gear would you recommend ?

In my case, I have a small roush M90 blower, instant boost, instant TQ hit. Then added the FRPP twin 62mm TB, JBA ceramic coated LT's, 94 octane tune. On the dyno it was 386.3 rwhp and 370 rwtq. Before all the mods, it was just 252 rwhp / 260 rwtq. I left the oem 3.31 rear gear alone. But I did install the DSS-DS aluminum DS, and also the Eaton-detroit tru-trac LSD, along with the whiteline watts link..and a ton of other suspension mods.

The 3.31 is ample for my use. Burns the tires off in 1st gear, and throws me into the back seat in 2nd. Pulls like a mofo in 3rd. That's with MPSS rears in 305-35-19 on 10" wide rims. ( 285-40-18's on 10" wide front rims). 0-60 mph comes very quickly, 4 secs. 0-100 mph in 10 secs. Like how fast do you want to go ?

Also replaced the oem upper grille with a 7 bar grille. The oem upper grille on the 10-11-12 cars restricts 80% of the airflow. With the 7 bar upper grille, it also eliminated the 2 x 90 deg bends into the..'snorkel' that feeds the oem airbox. ( filter replaced with a higher flow K+N). Boost goes up a bit when on the hwy. On a 2010, the oem airbox flows a lot more than the 05-09 cars. It also flow more than the 11+ cars. I can start at a red light on the hwy, with car manually shifted into 3rd gear...mash gas, shriek of rubber, off we go, to 90 mph...all in 3rd gear. I need 1st gear like I need a hole in the head.

The beauty of the LT's is.... they work in NA mode, or blower mode. I can put my foot into it, with boost gauge sitting at 0, or slightly less, and it pulls hard.

For your NA application, use a 4.10 gear. That would be the fastest, 'easiest' way to make the car accelerate quicker. I'm assuming you may or may not be able to install LT's (which are not cheap).

What is ur height above sea level in AZ ? Toss in hot temps in summer time, and bolt on's may only add a certain amount of hp/tq. The 4.10 gear will definitely work.

10 years ago, I almost went to a ton of bolt on's, cam's, rear gear, etc, then decided to leave it all oem, and bought the small blower, cheap, for $5K. Only lost one street race..to a twin turbo AMG vehicle.

 

[mattjames]

Hi Mustang Family I need a little help. I'd like to see if I can get a little more umfff out my mustang GT while still keeping it NA and doing just bolt ons. Right now I've got a SCT 91 tuner that came with the car. I don't known anything about the tune except for the tuner itself is very old, SLP Loud Mouth Cat Back, DSS one pice aluminum driveshaft and a Cervinis ram air hood. I must keep in mind that Arizona is an emission state so I have to stay compliant to pass inspection. With that in mind please give me some ideas for some bolt on power.

Arizona as a state is not. I have three cars that don't need emissions in Maricopa county. Insure it as a collector, have a daily registered, and it's exempt. My 07 GT and 90GT are Coyote swapped and are like this, plus you get 5 years tags!

Also, if you're looking to get any of your future mods done by a shop, I'm in Glendale at http://www.make-it-modular.com

As far as your car's mods, 4.10 are a MUST, I put them in them in these cars all the time. I have one in right now getting 4.10s along with suspension. I have all my customers tune with Lito remotely, and can facilitate that as well.

Hi Mustang Family I need a little help. I'd like to see if I can get a little more umfff out my mustang GT while still keeping it NA and doing just bolt ons. Right now I've got a SCT 91 tuner that came with the car. I don't known anything about the tune except for the tuner itself is very old, SLP Loud Mouth Cat Back, DSS one pice aluminum driveshaft and a Cervinis ram air hood. I must keep in mind that Arizona is an emission state so I have to stay compliant to pass inspection. With that in mind please give me some ideas for some bolt on power.

Also If you don't want to do it that way, they don't do visual inspections on OBDII gas cars, if your VIN matches the ECU, and most of the monitors are ready, you're good to go, even catless

 

[stkjock]

budget? speed costs money.... how fast you want to go?

 

[07 Boss]

NITROUS OXIDE

 

[Monkeyporn]

Arizona as a state is not. I have three cars that don't need emissions in Maricopa county. Insure it as a collector, have a daily registered, and it's exempt. My 07 GT and 90GT are Coyote swapped and are like this, plus you get 5 years tags!

Also, if you're looking to get any of your future mods done by a shop, I'm in Glendale at http://www.make-it-modular.com

As far as your car's mods, 4.10 are a MUST, I put them in them in these cars all the time. I have one in right now getting 4.10s along with suspension. I have all my customers tune with Lito remotely, and can facilitate that as well.


Also If you don't want to do it that way, they don't do visual inspections on OBDII gas cars, if your VIN matches the ECU, and most of the monitors are ready, you're good to go, even catless

Those sound like great Ideas but how do I go about getting a daily registration ? I've never heard of such a thing.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Hey Dino yeah you've done a lot more than I want to.....I also need opinions of what mods are worth it and which aren't because money doesn't grow on trees. I also need ideas of what shop to get a good custom tune in Phoenix Az.

For power mods you could go for the JLT 3 CAI, DIY ported stock throttle body, DIY charge motion delete plates, underdrive pulleys, and Lito 91 octane tune with 6500rpm rev limiter. These will get you to ~350hp/365lbft at the crank (yes it's that easy) for less than a grand (you already have an SCT tuner), and with NO mods to the exhaust.
Drivetrain upgrades (4.10 axle gears, TCI 3000rpm stall converter) will complement the power mods and make your car a totally different animal. With 4.10s and stock diameter tires, 80mph would occur at 3000rpm in overdrive 5th gear. You'd also reach the 1/4 mile trap in the low 13s (provided there's good traction) at ~105mph in 4th gear with the engine at ~5500rpm. Stickier tires and a pair of BMR rear LCAs should eliminate most of the wheel hop that these cars suffer when stock.

 

[Monkeyporn]

For power mods you could go for the JLT 3 CAI, DIY ported stock throttle body, DIY charge motion delete plates, underdrive pulleys, and Lito 91 octane tune with 6500rpm rev limiter. These will get you to ~350hp/365lbft at the crank (yes it's that easy) for less than a grand (you already have an SCT tuner), and with NO mods to the exhaust.
Drivetrain upgrades (4.10 axle gears, TCI 3000rpm stall converter) will complement the power mods and make your car a totally different animal. With 4.10s and stock diameter tires, 80mph would occur at 3000rpm in overdrive 5th gear. You'd also reach the 1/4 mile trap in the low 13s (provided there's good traction) at ~105mph in 4th gear with the engine at ~5500rpm. Stickier tires and a pair of BMR rear LCAs should eliminate most of the wheel hop that these cars suffer when stock.

OH My Dino that's a lot of info most of it I'm not sure I understand. OK the JLT 3 CAI I known but it requires a. tune. A DIY ported stock throttle body ? dod you mean like the FRPP 62mm throttle body ? Also by DIY CMDP are you referring to the Steed delta plates ? Likewise I'm guessing for under drive pulleys your talking about the Steeda ones or are there other recommended ones ?

Yes I have a SCT tuner but it's old and I'm not sure it can even be updated. It's NOT one of the pretty blacks ones you see these days this thing looks like a game boy from back in the day. For tunes I have a 91octane tune that came with the car I was told by the seller that I would need to remove it when going in for an emission test and to put the stock tune bak in so that's what I've been doing.Thats the only thing I do with this tuner. As far as Exhaust mods I've got SLP Loud mouths but that's it for the exhaust. I also have a DSS Driveshop single piece Aluminum Drive shaft. As for tires mine are new as I just got them a week ago Their Nitto's Nt555 G2 fronts 255/45ZR18 rears are 285/40ZR18 their sitting on PowerStop slotted and drilled rotors and Koni Yellow Shocks and Struts with FRPP lowering springs and Steeda heavy duty camber caster plates.

So I have done some stuff but nothing that gives me umfff they're more the mods that support the umfff. I think from what people have said so far that 4:10 gears and a CAI would be a good place to start and the most bang for the buck....although I'm not sure.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

A DIY ported stock throttle body ? dod you mean like the FRPP 62mm throttle body ? Also by DIY CMDP are you referring to the Steed delta plates ? Likewise I'm guessing for under drive pulleys your talking about the Steeda ones or are there other recommended ones ?

1. I'm talking about porting your existing stock 55mm throttle body in the same way that I did mine. This saves you at least $400 compared to buying the cheapest aftermarket unit and doesn't require an ECU retune.

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/TB_Stock_v_Ported.jpg

2. I'm talking about removing the existing CMCV assembly from the intake manifold and converting it into delete plates. This saves you $280 compared to buying the Steeda items.

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/CMDP.html

If you do these two mods at the same time as installing the JLT 3 CAI, you'd only need to retune the ECU once. If you do the JLT first and do the delete plates later, you'd need to retune twice.

3. The Steeda underdrive pulleys are reputedly the best and will yield an 8-10hp gain with no downsides. This doesn't require an ECU retune and you can reuse the existing stock drivebelt.

 

[Pentalab]

1. I'm talking about porting your existing stock 55mm throttle body in the same way that I did mine. This saves you at least $400 compared to buying the cheapest aftermarket unit and doesn't require an ECU retune.

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/TB_Stock_v_Ported.jpg

2. I'm talking about removing the existing CMCV assembly from the intake manifold and converting it into delete plates. This saves you $280 compared to buying the Steeda items.

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/CMDP.html

If you do these two mods at the same time as installing the JLT 3 CAI, you'd only need to retune the ECU once. If you do the JLT first and do the delete plates later, you'd need to retune twice.

3. The Steeda underdrive pulleys are reputedly the best and will yield an 8-10hp gain with no downsides. This doesn't require an ECU retune and you can reuse the existing stock drivebelt.

I don't get the porting the oem twin 55mm to a twin 62mm ? I can't tell any difference on that pix. Which one is supposed to be ported, top or bottom pix ?

Going from 55mm to 62mm is a helluva lot, like another 7mm in diameter. Even if it could be ported, those oem circular butterfly discs would have to be replaced with bigger diam ones ?

62 / 55 = 27% increase in surface area..... and that's a bunch.

I would not mess with the throttle response mapping though. Too many tuners in the past have done just that...to give the end user, the illusion of...'more power'. When in fact they have turned it into a ...'light switch'.

 

[JC SSP]

Basic Hot Rodding 101: If you look at an engine as an "air pump" then consider intake and exhaust mods first. The more air you can injest and at the same time expel, results in an engine which operates more efficiently as such generates more power. More fuel economy too, if you can keep your right foot out of it. LOL

Known reputable intake systems: JLT, Steeda, Ford Racing, etc. Exhaust, you already have mufflers, consider shorties since you need to keep your cats for emissions. You can always invest in LTH with aftermarket high-flow cats, but they get pricey. Note: Any header short, mid or long is better than factory cast iron logs!

You cannot go wrong with gears! 4:10 is the best for auto. Not mandatory, but to take full use of the gear ratio change a new high-stall torque converter will yield best results, especially for hard launches.

Your handheld tuner although not the latest with all the apps, might be compatible with an aftermarket custom tune. You might even be able to get an "emission friendly" tune too? I will default to others recommendation on custom tuners...

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I don't get the porting the oem twin 55mm to a twin 62mm ? I can't tell any difference on that pix. Which one is supposed to be ported, top or bottom pix ?

Going from 55mm to 62mm is a helluva lot, like another 7mm in diameter. Even if it could be ported, those oem circular butterfly discs would have to be replaced with bigger diam ones ?

62 / 55 = 27% increase in surface area..... and that's a bunch.

Who said anything about boring the throttle body to 62mm? The bottom pic is the ported throttle body (still 55mm) with streamlined bore entries. Airflow velocity is increased, and part throttle response is improved, without needing to revise the throttle angle mapping.