HOW TO GET THE MOST BOLT ON POWER FROM MY MUSTANG GT

JC SSP

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Dino as always 100%++++

TB plate diameter remains the same (stock). What your porting and polishing is the intake part for smooth transition into the butterfly area. Different sanding rolls, variety of sandpaper grits and polishing compound and go to work... polish to smooth high luster! LOL

Some people counter sink the screws, grind down the shaft flush with the plate, radius the rear part of the butterfly and knife-edge the throttle plate itself, but I stay away from that since it can cause drivability issues.

I have done several of these when proven aftermarket TBs are not available and/or way too expensive for the return on HP. Heck, I have even epoxied my Brother's GTO LS TB to build a smoother transition into the intake.
 

Monkeyporn

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Dino as always 100%++++

TB plate diameter remains the same (stock). What your porting and polishing is the intake part for smooth transition into the butterfly area. Different sanding rolls, variety of sandpaper grits and polishing compound and go to work... polish to smooth high luster! LOL

Some people counter sink the screws, grind down the shaft flush with the plate, radius the rear part of the butterfly and knife-edge the throttle plate itself, but I stay away from that since it can cause drivability issues.

I have done several of these when proven aftermarket TBs are not available and/or way too expensive for the return on HP. Heck, I have even epoxied my Brother's GTO LS TB to build a smoother transition into the intake.

Oh that sounds very involved and I have no idea how to do those things. I wouldn't known where to begin.
 

wdrlaw

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You can trust almost everything that guy with the red car ;) and Pentalab say. I followed Kenny Brown's mantra of chassis, suspension, wheels and tires, and brakes--in that order. I wish I had started with 18 or 19x10's all around with 285 mm tires. Other than the crack cocaine of 4.10's, easily the most noticeable improvement I have done.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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This is roughly what you need to bring a 3V up to the stock HP level of various generations of Mustang Coyote:

Gen 1: CAI, underdrive pulleys, LT headers, stock intake manifold with delete plates, 62mm TB, Thumpr NSR stage 2 cams, stage 1 CNC ported heads. Approx. 365rwhp & 345rwtq.

Gen 2: CAI, underdrive pulleys, LT headers, stock intake manifold with delete plates, 62mm TB, SPR stage 2 cams, stage 3 CNC ported heads. Approx. 385rwhp & 355rwtq.

Gen 3: CAI, underdrive pulleys, LT headers, Ford Performance intake manifold, 62mm TB, SPR stage 3 cams, stage 3 CNC ported heads, 302ci stroker kit. Approx. 410rwhp & 360rwtq.

The higher you go the more expensive it becomes. Even then, a 3V won't match the low rpm torque and drivability of a Coyote if you try to match its HP number.

4.9 3V Stroker vs Gen 3 Coyote.jpg

The Coyote simply has more technical advantages (eight more valves, two more camshafts, a 1.2 point higher compression ratio (2.2 points for Gen 3), 350cc more displacement (434cc for Gen 3), and TiVCT). You only need to add a CAI, LT headers, Gen 3 intake manifold, and 93 octane tune to a Coyote to come out way ahead of even a fully built 410rwhp 302ci 3V stroker.

I chose not to go down that route but instead, went low budget with simple bolt ons that took little effort. My 3V currently matches the outputs of a stock Gen 1 F-150 Coyote and has more torque below 2500rpm than a stock Gen 1 Mustang Coyote. I have the parts ready to perform the 07-10 cooling system conversion and once that's complete, there'd be enough room in the engine bay to install an On3 turbo kit if I wanted to. The only mod I'd need to reverse is the JLT CAI and I'd have roughly 450rwhp & 450rwtq (maximum boost restricted to 6psi) at far less cost than a NA 302ci stroker. It would also pull far better at lower rpm and not require higher ratio axle gears, thus allowing it to yield better gas mileage.
 
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