if you adjusted your pinion angle, come in!

mds08

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I'm taking the front wheels to a different/better tire shop and having the TPMS sensors removed and having them take off all the weights and re-balance them from scratch. I really feel it's a tire balance problem from the way it's acting.

I took them to Wal-Mart and had them checked before and they said they were fine, but I think I want a second opinion and a fresh start. The semi-local reputable tire shop assured me that they very well could be "balanced" but not balanced, especially with the types of machine that Wal-Mart uses.

On a side note, I took my Jeep to Wal-Mart with the same issue and they "balanced" it and I still had a shimmy. Then I took it to this other shop and they did it and it's smooth as butter.

Did you order the ET lug nuts?
 

DKS

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Did you order the ET lug nuts?


The tires are getting re-balanced today on a Hunter Road Force. I'm going to test it out first before I spend any more money on this thing. If it's fixed, no point in spending more on it if I don't need them.

The wheels only had weights in one place on each wheel. Looks like they were just static balanced and I'm 99% sure that's the problem.

I have a set saved in my bookmarks and that will be my next step, but I'm sure the balancing is the issue.
 

mrdeath2000

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FYI, PST driveshafts have a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft with a CV at the rear instead of using a slip-joint and 2 sets of u-joints for ~750. Much better pinion angle tolerance like the stocker.

http://www.pstds.com/news_events.htm
Check em out, I haven't picked one up yet myself, but tinking aboot it :)
 

DKS

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Update: My problem was morons not knowing how to balance tires, twice. Found a shop with a Hunter Road Force and my baby is smooth as glass covered with KY Jelly.
 

ElSpa

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ok guys quick question

Should I substract the values between the drive shaft and the flange ?
So if the driveshaft is at -5, the flange should be around -2 to get a 3 degrees negative angle, right ?

thanks,
 

rojizostang

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BMR Tech

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ok guys quick question

Should I substract the values between the drive shaft and the flange ?
So if the driveshaft is at -5, the flange should be around -2 to get a 3 degrees negative angle, right ?

thanks,

-5 DS and -2 flange would put it at -7.

Here is a good picture.

2.jpg


Here is a good link to have on u-joint angles: (if applicable to your application)

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-DSSP.pdf

Although it does not feature Mustangs, it has a good bit of info and pictures.
 

ElSpa

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great, thanks for the answer...
so I have to adjust my BMR upper controll arm to +2 to get a 3 degrees negative angle.
 

gil_t2

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great, thanks for the answer...
so I have to adjust my BMR upper controll arm to +2 to get a 3 degrees negative angle.

You never said if you are using a factory or 1p Alu DS? It Makes a difference?
 

zachman

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Just received my 1 piece axle exchange drive shaft. Their instructions say the transmission flange should be 2.7 down and the axle flange should be 2.7 up. Has anyone set their 1 piece driveshaft to these specs?
 

gil_t2

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My trans flange was only -1.6, Get an angle gauge and check it. I did not do it that way.
 

tmcolegr

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Just received my 1 piece axle exchange drive shaft. Their instructions say the transmission flange should be 2.7 down and the axle flange should be 2.7 up. Has anyone set their 1 piece drive shaft to these specs?

That's is exactly what I set mine to - required an adjustable UCA. I used a digital level accurate within .1*. The transmission output flange and differential pinion flange must be at the same angle to start with. Then measure the working angle of the drive shaft at both ends - should be 2.7*.

Note it is very important to have the vehicle either on a lift with all 4 tires supporting the weight of the vehicle or if you use ramps. Either way the vehicle must be at ride height and supported by the tires to get accurate results. If you don't believe me, support the vehicle by the body, A-Arms or rear axle and take a pinion angle measurement. Then support the vehicle by the tires and measure the pinion angle. The pinion angle will change.
 

zachman

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I have car with weight on tires on ramps sitting level. Bought J&M adj. upper control arm. Waiting on bushings for contol arm. They failed to include with arm.
Thanks
 

rojizostang

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wow. some of these posts have gotten pretty complicated. pinion angle and transmission flange angle is merely the amount of deflection or difference between the drive shaft plane, and the pinion or transmission flange plane. (a right angle between the flanges and the shaft would be represented as a 0 when it's probably more accurate to say it's 90 degrees)

your car doesn't have to be level, just the suspension weighted (front and rear). neither does the drive shaft have to be level. just establish the angle of the drive shaft relative to 0 degrees or level, and either add or subtract the appropriate amount to reach 0, and then add or subtract the appropriate amounts to your flange angles to reach zero, and the difference between the measurements are your angles. i think a better way to describe it is degrees of deflection.

having said all that, adjusting the pinion angle on mine made no difference. i think it's way over blown, unless the anlge is pretty severe.
 

BMR Tech

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Bought J&M adj. upper control arm. Waiting on bushings for contol arm. They failed to include with arm.

Wait, what? You received an upper control arm with no bushing in it?

having said all that, adjusting the pinion angle on mine made no difference. i think it's way over blown, unless the anlge is pretty severe.

I have run a span of about 4-5 degrees in my Mustangs, with no ill effects.....so I tend to partially agree with you.

The goal is to have the actual angles of the crankshaft/trans parallel to the angle of the pinion flange.....under load. This ensures no binding, or vibration.

On my personal drag car, I set the angles without the driveshaft in the car. I set the pinion flange down 1 degree in relation to the trans output....and throw the DS in. Works everytime.
 

rojizostang

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Wait, what? You received an upper control arm with no bushing in it?



I have run a span of about 4-5 degrees in my Mustangs, with no ill effects.....so I tend to partially agree with you.

The goal is to have the actual angles of the crankshaft/trans parallel to the angle of the pinion flange.....under load. This ensures no binding, or vibration.

On my personal drag car, I set the angles without the driveshaft in the car. I set the pinion flange down 1 degree in relation to the trans output....and throw the DS in. Works everytime.

whew...i was afraid you were going to rip me a new one lol.
 

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