If you Drag Race, PLEASE weld your axle tubes.

[BMR Tech]

As for the CHE brace, I am not sure why anyone would choose to add a large bracket/brace, weight, and potential clearance issues....when you can just weld your axle tubes.

I have nothing against it, but welding your tubes is a cheaper and stronger solution, that also weighs less.

 

[Sharad]

Every S197 I've seen with twisted axle tubes was running LCA relocation brackets. UPR's 2010 GT, which is a 4,000# porker, runs 9s with 1.35 short times and it doesn't have welded axle tubes.

However, if you want to run the relo brackets, you should definitely weld and brace the tubes as much as possible because the relocation brackets give the LCAs a longer moment arm on the axle tube, which means that it is easier for the axle tubes to twist within the center section when using relocation brackets.

If you're like me and you prefer a simple explanation, it's like this: it's easier to loosen your lugnuts with a 2 foot long ratchet than it is with a 6" long ratchet because you have more leverage on the nut. Well, the relocation brackets space the LCAs away from the axle tubes which gives the LCAs more leverage to twist the axle tubes with. No bueno.

For those of you with concerns about your axle tubes, UPR offers these axle braces:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-888-rear-end-braces.html

 

[weather man]

As for the CHE brace, I am not sure why anyone would choose to add a large bracket/brace, weight, and potential clearance issues....when you can just weld your axle tubes.

I have nothing against it, but welding your tubes is a cheaper and stronger solution, that also weighs less.

Just from the few posts here, depending who is doing the welding, it might end up costing you more than a brace when said and done (and raced).

 

[JDCoon]

Every S197 I've seen with twisted axle tubes was running LCA relocation brackets. UPR's 2010 GT, which is a 4,000# porker, runs 9s with 1.35 short times and it doesn't have welded axle tubes.

However, if you want to run the relo brackets, you should definitely weld and brace the tubes as much as possible because the relocation brackets give the LCAs a longer moment arm on the axle tube, which means that it is easier for the axle tubes to twist within the center section when using relocation brackets.

If you're like me and you prefer a simple explanation, it's like this: it's easier to loosen your lugnuts with a 2 foot long ratchet than it is with a 6" long ratchet because you have more leverage on the nut. Well, the relocation brackets space the LCAs away from the axle tubes which gives the LCAs more leverage to twist the axle tubes with. No bueno.

For those of you with concerns about your axle tubes, UPR offers these axle braces:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-888-rear-end-braces.html

Not trying to call you out on this sharad but i dont see how in any kind of way the lca brackets will put more force on the rear. I would say yea if they moved the leverage further out torwards the tire, thus creating the old cheater pipe effect and making axle tubes longer and putting more stress where the tubes are pressed in the center chunk. If a person is planning on drag racing alot welding the axle tubes and good ford racing diff cover will def stiffen things up and save alot of possible failures.

Not trying to say one shop is better than the other but instant center brackets of any quality brand is gonna help your 60 ft times. Having more adjustments to the rear suspension helps tremendous and the LCA brackets with multi adjustments can control how hard you hit the tires, everyone knows drag slick and drag radials are two diff beasts at the starting line, just ask all the guys who run x275 stock style suspension cars. Just like a n/a aluminum block 5.0s instant center will be different than an iron block nose heavy gt500. Point blank, more adjustments the better.

 

[BMR Tech]

Every S197 I've seen with twisted axle tubes was running LCA relocation brackets. UPR's 2010 GT, which is a 4,000# porker, runs 9s with 1.35 short times and it doesn't have welded axle tubes.

Happy reading, sir:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80723&highlight=twisted+axle

It didn't just twist....it twisted BAD.

I would say 75 to 80% of my customers who have had this issue, do not have Relocation brackets.

 

[Bmr4life]

What causes the wheel hop? Somehow, I've never had any in my 11. I do remember experiencing it in my 05 when burning out in the waterbox.

 

[RazorbackMustang]

What causes the wheel hop? Somehow, I've never had any in my 11. I do remember experiencing it in my 05 when burning out in the waterbox.

<--- Jelly! Mine hops pretty fiercely at times. I wish I could understand why some do and some don't. Does yours have 19" wheels?

 

[wbt]

They are stronger? When did you test this to verify?

Ours do not require welding either. I have stated that in response to your misinformed posts, a few times now. I assume you just do not want to accept what I have to say.

Really? I only responded once in this thread. Where are the multiple times?

How many posts about the CHE brackets have you come across stating they have had a failure? I'll leave this here for others to read:
http://mustangforums.com/forum/gt-s...ould-lca-relocation-brackets-be-welded-2.html

As for the CHE brace, I am not sure why anyone would choose to add a large bracket/brace, weight, and potential clearance issues....when you can just weld your axle tubes.

I have nothing against it, but welding your tubes is a cheaper and stronger solution, that also weighs less.

The CHE brace clears diff. covers, aftermarket exhausts, works with after-market panhard bars, etc... What is this clearance issue you speak of? You obviously haven't had any experience with their products which is fine but don't talk out of your ass.

On welding the tubes....That prevents the tube from rotating but doesn't prevent it from flexing forward. The 2 main causes of breaking spider gears are from not having bearing cap support with a diff cover combined with the axle tubes flexing forward on launch. Also, one just can't hunker down under the car and weld the tubes. The rear end has to come out, be placed in a jig and the welds made. It is not trivial. The CHE brace can be bolted on with the rear in the car.

 

[BMR Tech]

Once again, someone posting a picture of our old design. That design was a great design, that we recommended welding if drag racing. Out of thousands sold, I think we did run into a few people who bent them.

Since you are into the linking game, here is a good one for you:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66325&highlight=relocation+brackets+umi

Post # 16

I bent my CHE ones a few years ago. BMR is holding strong!

As for the posts, I was referring to this post/reply you made in another thread:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1434244&postcount=307

Directly in response to posts about BMR brackets.

As for the clearance, I should have clarified. If you use the CHE axle brace, you cannot utilize the BMR Anti-Roll bar and BMR LCA Relocation brackets without extensive modification. Those two parts, we probably sell more than the entire market....so I am just trying to inform potential or current BMR customers that clearance may be an issue.

 

[GT.350-R]

Holy moly , I thought this was good advice from a good guy. Weld them or don't weld them. He was just giving sound advice.

 

[BMR Tech]

Holy moly , I thought this was good advice from a good guy. Weld them or don't weld them. He was just giving sound advice.

No big deal. We are all on the same page, at the end of the day.

I just wanna see wbt get off the keyboard and go improve on his personal best. His car scoots!

 

[wbt]

Once again, someone posting a picture of our old design. That design was a great design, that we recommended welding if drag racing. Out of thousands sold, I think we did run into a few people who bent them.

Since you are into the linking game, here is a good one for you:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66325&highlight=relocation+brackets+umi

Post # 16




As for the posts, I was referring to this post/reply you made in another thread:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1434244&postcount=307

Directly in response to posts about BMR brackets.

As for the clearance, I should have clarified. If you use the CHE axle brace, you cannot utilize the BMR Anti-Roll bar and BMR LCA Relocation brackets without extensive modification. Those two parts, we probably sell more than the entire market....so I am just trying to inform potential or current BMR customers that clearance may be an issue.

The "other" thread link you posted goes right back to this thread....

...as for anti-roll bars, I prefer the TRZ unit which is sitting in my garage waiting to be installed: http://www.trzmotorsports.com/images/s197/s197-203.jpg

Holy moly , I thought this was good advice from a good guy. Weld them or don't weld them. He was just giving sound advice.

Nothing wrong with welding the tubes however there are alternatives. Other's posted the same thing I did regarding the CHE brace. I have experience running it so felt the need to offer my view.

 

[wbt]

No big deal. We are all on the same page, at the end of the day.

I just wanna see wbt get off the keyboard and go improve on his personal best. His car scoots!

I appreciate that and apologize if I came off too harsh. I have been considering some of your products like the k-member and control arms. I still haven't decided how far I plan to take the car. I will be back out in the Fall shooting for the overall 2011+ N/A stock long block record. Temps are in the upper 90's/lower 100's for the next several months here.

Once the N/A stuff is done, I have a Roush TVS sitting in the garage wiating to be installed for some single digit action.

 

[BMR Tech]

It is in the suspension thread titled "Mastering the art of the S197 3 link suspension (sixty foot)"

I am happy for you preferring the TRZ unit. Why would I ever think you would prefer a BMR part over anything else? lol

Are you going to be at NMRA BG? I will load a box full of cookies for you; or possibly some suspension if you decide that BMR may not be too bad after all.

 

[GT.350-R]

Just trying out the new sig.

 

[wbt]

It is in the suspension thread titled "Mastering the art of the S197 3 link suspension (sixty foot)"

I am happy for you preferring the TRZ unit. Why would I ever think you would prefer a BMR part over anything else? lol

Are you going to be at NMRA BG? I will load a box full of cookies for you; or possibly some suspension if you decide that BMR may not be too bad after all.

I got it on the thread. Again offering an alternative based on my experience with the CHE stuff.

Doubtful on BG. Texas Mile is the same month and may head down to it or just may skip it all and work on the N/A stuff if the weather is cool enough by then.

Link to the axle break on my 2011:

 

[Bud]

...as for anti-roll bars, I prefer the TRZ unit which is sitting in my garage waiting to be installed: http://www.trzmotorsports.com/images/s197/s197-203.jpg

That is the unit I am running after asking around. It works great, tucks up out of the way, and fits with the stock exhaust. Pricey, but a nice unit.

The bmr k-member and arms worked well on my car, weight off the front can't hurt. Only thing I notice is vibration in the car at very low RPM's (under 500rpm), but that is something related to my setup and tune, at idle RPM's swing a little. It only vibrates at the bottom of the rpm swing, once that is resolved I don't think I'll really have any increased noise/vibration from the stiffer mounts in the kmember.

 

[BMR Tech]

I dont wanna turn this into a BMR VS Every other company thread, but must reply to some posts.

The BMR Anti-Roll bar is a streetable bar, that completely bolts-on (except axle tabs), and has ZERO exhaust clearance issues.

The two complaints are:

Hangs too low
I have not one time in all the years, had a customer have an issue hitting anything on the road, and there surely arent turtles crossing the drag-strip.

Has Poly bushings
OKAY, so what do you want. You dont want it because it makes too much noise, and is horrible for street use...but you dont want poly bushings.

FWIW....we have been making ARB's for a long time. We use poly in our 4th gen F-body bars, and have customers well into the 7's on them.

Greg, owner of RET.....is going to be using our ARB on his 7 second Coyote build. I can't wait!

That's all.

 

[Bud]

I think the discussion is good, a little off topic, but good. Wasn't bagging on BMR's ARB at all, just threw out what I liked about the TRZ unit. My car is a bit of a whore, it has a little of everybody's suspension parts in her, including BMR

 

[BMR Tech]

And she also moves out WELL for being a mile high! Great job you have done with that beast.