Input regarding Saleen Series VI set-up

[Burke]

Hey guys - couple of quick tech questions here:

1) regarding the bypass valve on the back passenger side of the blower - I have seen all the posts regarding raising and lowering the actual unit or running the stop bolt into the blower for quicker boost. Recently (since I do most of this stuff alone) I had my head in the engine bay with the car running and for the first time noticed that the small silver arm coming out of the bottom of the valve with the flat metal 'plate on it' (that sits on the bypass valve when the car is off) was retracted up into the valve - so essentially the plate was nowhere near the stop bolt and there is at least a pinkies width clearance between the bolt and the bottom of the arm when the car is running. Isn't that supposed to happen during actual driving? Is it supposed to be retracted like that at all times when the car is running? I recently dynoed it and boost levels were fine as the first time I dynoed - nothing seems different in driving - gas mileage seems the same. Input?

2) I recently swapped out my stock Saleen boost gauge in the dash for an Interceptor gauge. I got the 2 bar boost sensor mounted in the engine bay and everything wired up - no problems. My boost level is not showing correctly driving however - the gauge is calibrated correctly (slope adjustments, etc) and I have the proper negative at idle (According to Todd at Aeroforce) and he asked me if I was tapped into a positive boost vaccum - I spliced a T into the vaccum hose on the driver's side of the engine, a couple of inches forward of the JDM vaccum T set-up. Should I have this in a different spot?

Any help/advice is appreciated - thanks!

Dave

 

[gloryboy]

Hey Dude.....
I just checked my setup.
The bypass valve should be resting on the stop bolt when the car is either off, or in boost. The rest of the time (idle or regular driving) it should be up ( i believe the vacuum pulls it up so the boost isn't going into the motor).

It sounds like your guage is t'd into the right line. You should be reading about 21 lbs of vacuum at idle.......

check out the pic (old pic btw)

 

[Clay]

gloryboy answered you correctly. That T-line is where I tapped in to also.

 

[Burke]

Hey Dude.....
I just checked my setup.
The bypass valve should be resting on the stop bolt when the car is either off, or in boost. The rest of the time (idle or regular driving) it should be up ( i believe the vacuum pulls it up so the boost isn't going into the motor).

It sounds like your guage is t'd into the right line. You should be reading about 21 lbs of vacuum at idle.......

check out the pic (old pic btw)

Hey man!

okay so I am obviously T-ed into the vacuum right hose

So I should see about -21 lbs correct? Mine seems to be around -10 and when I add power will go to -4 or -3 but never ABOVE that - never makes a positive number.

I'm on lunch break - I am going to grab a buddy head down to the parking lot and have him watch the valve arm to make sure it is moving when I add power as you say in your post.

 

[tom281]

I gotta agree with these guys, this is how mine is. I have an Autometer boost gauge tied into that line for a year now, no problems. (although the gauge does read about 2psi low... common with autometer I'm told).

 

[Burke]

I gotta agree with these guys, this is how mine is. I have an Autometer boost gauge tied into that line for a year now, no problems. (although the gauge does read about 2psi low... common with autometer I'm told).

Tom - thanks bro! - yeah I figured I was in the right line

Right now I can only figure that the calibrations you have to input into the Interceptor to set it up for the boost sensor were maybe off on my part?

I sent both Jim Jr at JDM and Todd at Aeroforce tech the link to this thread to get some input from them.

 

[gloryboy]

Hey man!

okay so I am obviously T-ed into the vacuum right hose

So I should see about -21 lbs correct? Mine seems to be around -10 and when I add power will go to -4 or -3 but never ABOVE that - never makes a positive number.

I'm on lunch break - I am going to grab a buddy head down to the parking lot and have him watch the valve arm to make sure it is moving when I add power as you say in your post.

sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere if your only getting 10 lbs of vacuum at idle, but you said the car is running fine......so maybe the guage is out of wack.....

 

[Burke]

sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere if your only getting 10 lbs of vacuum at idle, but you said the car is running fine......so maybe the guage is out of wack.....

Boost should be fine - just had the car on VMP's mobile dyno back in Janaury and there were no weird issues with the boost on the dyno run - nice even arcing line on the sheet


**update - just confirmed out in the parking lot with my buddy that the bypass valve is working normally**

 

[nmeofdst82]

check to see....

When I first installed my A/F on my previous 04 procharged car, the tubing got kinked in one spot and I had a very similar experience to the one your having. Luckily, where it was kinked I had enough slack to cut it and reattach to the back of the gauge. Problem solved and went to showing way - to 10PSI when I got on it.

I'm assuming you have that super small diameter clearish nylon hose...kink or leak in that line might be your problem.

 

[TungstenGT06]

I have the same gauges and resently hooked them up. I read between -10 and -11 psi at idle,which is between 20 and 21" hg. The reason it reads that way is because the guage can only read in PSI. I have it tapped into my T fitting and I see positive boost when I'm driving and put my foot into it.

 

[tom281]

Curious to see what you find out.... I have two Aeroforce guages and have considered hooking up boost and actual fuel pressure, so I can consolidate guages from 2 Aeroforce and 2 Autometer just to the Aeroforce units.

 

[tom281]

I have the same gauges and resently hooked them up. I read between -10 and -11 psi at idle,which is between 20 and 21" hg. The reason it reads that way is because the guage can only read in PSI. I have it tapped into my T fitting and I see positive boost when I'm driving and put my foot into it.

What boost sensor are you running?

 

[Burke]

I have the same gauges and resently hooked them up. I read between -10 and -11 psi at idle,which is between 20 and 21" hg. The reason it reads that way is because the guage can only read in PSI. I have it tapped into my T fitting and I see positive boost when I'm driving and put my foot into it.

Oooookay - just learned myself something valuable folks

Besides the difference of actually driving as opposed to revving when stopped, its the effectiveness of the bypass valve on the series VI. After re-enterring the calibration numbers, I didn't get to really drive the car other than the stop and go commute to work today - ie, I couldn't put my damn FOOT in it.

Tonight some buddies invited me out last minute - finished up around 8 and took the HIGHWAY home. Well I could downshift and lean on her a bit. And damned if I didn't make some sprints with my FOOT in it and see some postive numbers (5 to 7.5 lbs boost)

So I think its a combo of never having used a gauge showing NEGATIVE vacuum before, and the fact that the bypass valve is so effective, when you ROLL on the power because you can't hammer it, you aren't going to see anything. I think I need to make one slight adjustment to the calibration numbers but at idle I am right there where you are Tungsten (-10 or so) and right where Todd from Aeroforce tech says I should be.

Well learning new things everyday.

Thanks to everyone who posted!

(except Tom )

 

[TungstenGT06]

Tom, I'm running the 3 bar map sensor. Burke I forgot to mention that you probably would not see boost if your just revving the motor without a load on it. Glad to here you got to see positive boost.

 

[Burke]

Tom, I'm running the 3 bar map sensor. Burke I forgot to mention that you probably would not see boost if your just revving the motor without a load on it. Glad to here you got to see positive boost.