You might want to data log your fuel system to see if your loosing fuel pressure. also google how a boost a pump works as there is a lot of good info to read
Well, today I went and checked all the wiring to the BAP, the S&H fpdm wiring upgrade, and all the grounds.
Also swapped the underhood little square fuel pump relay with the identical relay in the A/C compressor location, 2 spots over (locations 41 and 43 I think).
Then went and opened up the electrical tape I had taped over the original connection I made to the violet/white FPDM connector wire when I installed the wiring upgrade, seemed a bit flmsy so I un-did it and replaced the connector, and put new heatshrink on it, then replaced the connector I replaced a couple/few weeks ago (earlier in this thread), did a better crimp on the new connector and used heatshrink also. Checked and re-routed some of the other wiring back there, to make sure there's no unwanted contact.
Also popped out the rear seat cushion and checked all the fuel pump wiring under there, since I found a TSB that related to '11-'13 cars that might have the driver side harness under there chafing between the body and the bottom of the seat.
No chafing found.
Tested the relay, with the 86 hooked up to the positive terminal of the battery and the 85 hooked up to the negative, I had values of zero showing up on my multi-meter when I was touching the 87 and the 30 terminals with the probes, multi-meter in ohm mode (2k or 200 ohm I think). Supposedly that's a good thing, going by what I was finding on the internet on how to test an automotive relay. Also, the thing was clicking instantly as soon as it was getting power.
And the car started up just fine of course, and drove fine when I took it up and down the road.
Tonight/tomorrow it's gonna rain, so no chance to drive it till at least Saturday.
I think I need to start carrying some parts/tools and my multi-meter with me every time I drive the car now ...