Is there any way to test VCT solenoids???

[VanWilder]

Like the title says...I am trying to figure out if my VCT issue I am having is either a bad phaser or possibly the VCT solenoids need to be replaced...We've got it narrowed down to one of those two things...I was just wondering if there was a way to test the VCT solenoids to see if they are functioning correctly without having to buy new ones in "hopes" of it fixing the problem...any help greatly appreciated

 

[JeremyH]

Yes it has to do with running a ground wire to it while cars running. PM TonyN he has done it before.

 

[VanWilder]

Yes it has to do with running a ground wire to it while cars running. PM TonyN he has done it before.

Awesome man!! Thanks...I will definately give him a shout

 

[TexasKyle]

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/july2002/techtips.htm

The pins mentioned are probably not for our car, but the prinicple seems sound.

 

[TexasKyle]

Oh, and talk about wicked coincidence, I had just looked that up not five minutes before I read your post. Was just browsing around trying to learn more about VCT.

 

[JeremyH]

Here's tony's post deon another thread:

In your case I have a feeling the VCT solenoid took a crap. I would try replacing it and see if it fixes it. Pretty easy to do. All you have to do is take the valve cover off and remove the small bolt holding the solenoids in.

If you want to test the solenoid, run engine at hot idle. When the engine is running like crap, backprobe a ground wire into the variable camshaft solenoids (located at the top of each valve cover) at the following wires one at a time. Only tap the ground to the wire briefly though as holding it there to long can burn it up.

- Driver's side, Violet and Light Blue wire.

- Passenger side, Dark Green and Orange wire.

If tapping a ground to either solenoid changes it, the solenoid was stuck open. Either because of debris stuck in the solenoid or because the solenoid itself was stuck/bad.

Also try disconnecting the cam sensors while running and see if there is any changes.

 

[bigray327]

Van, what are your symptoms?

 

[VanWilder]

Van, what are your symptoms?

Well a month or so ago when it was really cold I got the car dyno'd...right at the 3800 mark I had a huge spike down in hp and tq (by huge I mean about 20rwhp & 30rwtq) After that happened I started doing some datalogs doing a WOT 4th gear pull 2000-6600rpm to mimic the dyno pulls...right at the 3800-4000 mark my Actual Cam Angle was jumping from 0 to 17 degrees retard...whereas it should gradually climb at a nice 45 degree angle not reaching 17 degrees until right at redline...so we started making some tweaks in the tune here and there and it didn't change the problem...now recently with the warmer weather (about 30-40 degrees warmer) the datalogs are not showing this same issue...it looks almost perfect...the only thing we noticed was that at the 3800-4000 mark the nice 45 degree angle the Actual Cam Angle was making slightly veered off a little and then it started going back up in the right direction...so basically now we are confused because the problem we had all winter basically went away but not completely...Chris Rose at Tillman Speed is who has been working with me...he figures its either a bad phaser in the cam gears, a bad VCT Solenoid, or the oil was bad and causing the problem...I just got an oil change today and it was overdue (I dont drive the car anymore so the months were about 7 months over the recommended time and the miles were only about 1500 over)...when pulling the dipstick it looked like I might have been a little low though...I'm hoping that this fixed the problem...I will be able to datalog it later tonight...if that was the problem I'm guessing due to a little low on oil and the cold weather made it to where not enough oil was making it through the VCT Solenoids and into the phasers causing the problem...what do you guys think?!