Fishstyx
forum member
After my second oil change, baking in the sun, wedged under the car even though I've jacked it up as high as the jackstands will allow, I decided there has to be a better way. I track my mustang on a regular basis so I'm constantly changing fluids, brakes, removing wheels for cleaning, etc. A few weeks ago I started looking for a lift I could install in my garage.
I decided I wanted a 2-post lift because I'm constantly removing the wheels. The problem was most of these things are a) enormous (needing 9'-10' of ceiling clearance, and b) expensive (north of $3000). After a bit of research I came across a "portable" 2-post lift called a MaxJax. It will lift the car 45" (capacity 6000lbs) and the posts can easily be removed from the floor anchors to store out of the way
So, I ordered the thing which was $1900 with free shipping (nice since it's an 830lb package) from CA to PA. After getting it home I decided that since the lift posts weren't permanent I would install the lift in a diagonal config in the 2-car garage to maximize space and help clear the garage door rails. These things are secured to the floor with huge "Power Drop" anchors that require the concrete be at least 4.5 thick. There are five 5/8" bolts per tower and the anchor holes must be precisely drilled.
I rented an electric hammer drill and the 5/8" & 7/8" bits. Unfortunately, the instructions for drilling the holes are shit and would probably result in misaligned holes. I decided to make a jig from 5/8" plywood to accurately drill the holes:
Mounting one of the towers, then using that as a reference to measure the exact distance, angle and then snap a chalk line for the second worked well. With the 5/8" pilot holes drilled the 7/8" anchor holes are a no-brainer. Once those holes are done, just hammer in the anchors and set them. Here's both posts installed:
Here are the posts against the wall for storage:
They hardly take up any room with the car in:
I had some issues with the drill before I could finish all the final 7/8" hole but I should get that fixed tomorrow when the tool rental place opens. Then I'll be ready to lift.
With respect to lifting S197s I did a bunch of research online and found it somewhat difficult to get a straight forward answer. Fortunately it looks like the right answer is the easiest one from a 2-post lifting perspective. The pinch welds, just under the kickplate on the side of the car where the spare tire jack is intended to go is the place. I was initially concerned about this because it seems like such a narrow piece of metal to carry the weight of the entire car. The lift pads have rubber covers on them which I expect will be cut by the pinch weld, well see. I wonder if I should remove the rubber and just lift with the bare metal on the arms?
One piece of advice was to never jack or lift the car where the K-member bolts to the unibody as it can deform the skin of the unibody (literally pushing the K-member up into the body). Somone on a Shelby forum posted pics of damage there.
I decided I wanted a 2-post lift because I'm constantly removing the wheels. The problem was most of these things are a) enormous (needing 9'-10' of ceiling clearance, and b) expensive (north of $3000). After a bit of research I came across a "portable" 2-post lift called a MaxJax. It will lift the car 45" (capacity 6000lbs) and the posts can easily be removed from the floor anchors to store out of the way
So, I ordered the thing which was $1900 with free shipping (nice since it's an 830lb package) from CA to PA. After getting it home I decided that since the lift posts weren't permanent I would install the lift in a diagonal config in the 2-car garage to maximize space and help clear the garage door rails. These things are secured to the floor with huge "Power Drop" anchors that require the concrete be at least 4.5 thick. There are five 5/8" bolts per tower and the anchor holes must be precisely drilled.
I rented an electric hammer drill and the 5/8" & 7/8" bits. Unfortunately, the instructions for drilling the holes are shit and would probably result in misaligned holes. I decided to make a jig from 5/8" plywood to accurately drill the holes:
Mounting one of the towers, then using that as a reference to measure the exact distance, angle and then snap a chalk line for the second worked well. With the 5/8" pilot holes drilled the 7/8" anchor holes are a no-brainer. Once those holes are done, just hammer in the anchors and set them. Here's both posts installed:
Here are the posts against the wall for storage:
They hardly take up any room with the car in:
I had some issues with the drill before I could finish all the final 7/8" hole but I should get that fixed tomorrow when the tool rental place opens. Then I'll be ready to lift.
With respect to lifting S197s I did a bunch of research online and found it somewhat difficult to get a straight forward answer. Fortunately it looks like the right answer is the easiest one from a 2-post lifting perspective. The pinch welds, just under the kickplate on the side of the car where the spare tire jack is intended to go is the place. I was initially concerned about this because it seems like such a narrow piece of metal to carry the weight of the entire car. The lift pads have rubber covers on them which I expect will be cut by the pinch weld, well see. I wonder if I should remove the rubber and just lift with the bare metal on the arms?
One piece of advice was to never jack or lift the car where the K-member bolts to the unibody as it can deform the skin of the unibody (literally pushing the K-member up into the body). Somone on a Shelby forum posted pics of damage there.
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