MT DRs compared to an ET Street or slick

[thunderstang]

Well guys im getting fustrated with the lack of traction. I am spinning my MT 275/60-15 DRs launching at 3300 RPMS off of the two step. Tire pressure has been everywhere from 18 down to 14 psi) If I lower the RPMs I bog down and nose over off the line. My question is how much harder do the MT ET Streets hook compared to the DRs. Is it worth the jump over, or is it worth going to a full blown MT Slick.

 

[firestang70]

I ran a shorter 275/40/17 MT DR. Mine did not hook well with my manual till I was under 12 psi. I would recommend a rear axle brace. I now run a 28by11.50by 15 ET Street. The ET Street definitely hooks harder on the track ( not really an apples to apples comparison) I was NA and a 100 shot with the drs, Whipple @ 10 lbs with the ET streets. They are two totally different tires. The bias ply bites harder but will "walk" ALOT more than a drag radial especially on the big end. Hope it helps. Try lowering your pressure some and is the rest of the suspension dialed in? Being lowered are your LCAs good to go? Good luck.

 

[thunderstang]

Im running adj upper and lower control arms, and I have the lowers on the bottom hole of the BMR relocation brackets. I have the BMR X-tream anti swaybar sitting here I need to find the time to install it, I'm not sure if that helps with the traction or just the squat.

 

[joedls]

What about springs and shocks? Does the car transfer weight to the back tires?

 

[kbchevlvr]

if your spinning the drag radials, i would venture to say something else is wrong with the set up. drag radials flat work. i would run 1.74 60's with a mickey t slick, i changed nothing on the car, only kept the mickey t drag radials (due to laziness) and the car goes 1.71 everywhere (from ny to virginia). the slicks have not been on the car since.

 

[thunderstang]

My springs are Eibach Prokit (about 1.5 inch drop)
shocks are Adj D-spec (full soft front and five turns from firm rear)
front tires are 15x4 jegs pro stars with 28x7.5 MT sportsman fronts

All tubular front k-member, A-arms, radiator support.

I tried to look for the thread from a while back about the D-spec adjustments for dragracing but couldn't find it.

My 60ft arn't toooo bad, any where between a 1.73 and 1.9, (this was my first week with the two step so I'm hopint to get more consistant times. But the spinning is killing me. I know theres better times if I can hook and launch.

 

[fin1]

I've run both and they each have their pros-n-cons.

I've run my fastest 60' & ET in radial but I run more consistent 60' times with slicks, which for me is key in bracket racing.

Radials can be a hit-n-miss affair. They are more sensitive to poor track prep and when they spin, you usually need to lift. If you look at the NMRA Drag Radial class you can see how hard it is for those guys to run this tire consistently. They spend a lot of time getting the suspension just right just to get the tire to work and even then it's not a given it will make it down the track w/o blowing the tire off.

Slicks provide a bit more consistency while trading off some ET and less top-end stability.

 

[chad05gt]

My springs are Eibach Prokit (about 1.5 inch drop)
shocks are Adj D-spec (full soft front and five turns from firm rear)
front tires are 15x4 jegs pro stars with 28x7.5 MT sportsman fronts

All tubular front k-member, A-arms, radiator support.

I tried to look for the thread from a while back about the D-spec adjustments for dragracing but couldn't find it.

My 60ft arn't toooo bad, any where between a 1.73 and 1.9, (this was my first week with the two step so I'm hopint to get more consistant times. But the spinning is killing me. I know theres better times if I can hook and launch.

60$ ON Cobra Jet springs, problem solved... Thats w/ dspecs, stock rad support, stock k's and a's...... swapped springs... 1.6's no problem

 

[05yellowgt]

Just out of curiosity, how do you conduct your burn out?

 

[joedls]

My springs are Eibach Prokit (about 1.5 inch drop)
shocks are Adj D-spec (full soft front and five turns from firm rear)
front tires are 15x4 jegs pro stars with 28x7.5 MT sportsman fronts

All tubular front k-member, A-arms, radiator support.

I tried to look for the thread from a while back about the D-spec adjustments for dragracing but couldn't find it.

My 60ft arn't toooo bad, any where between a 1.73 and 1.9, (this was my first week with the two step so I'm hopint to get more consistant times. But the spinning is killing me. I know theres better times if I can hook and launch.

I've found that with my BMR lowering springs, it's best for me to run my rear shocks 1 - 2 turns from firm. I haven't tried the CJ springs yet, but I will next time I go to the track.

 

[thunderstang]

My burn out,

At my track I have to drive through the water box, theres no going around. Stop in the box and spin the tires in first to get them wet then I roll out of the water box. I set my line lock and do a 2nd gear burn out for about 5 to 8 seconds or until a see a nice white cloud behind me. Tire speed is between 50 and 60 mph.

I'll try the stiffing up the rears next time out.

 

[05yellowgt]

Sounds like a good burnout. I was suprised how much of a difference in traction doing a good 2nd gear burnout made for me. You also might be hitting the tires a little too hard with the LCA's in the lower position of the relocation brackets. Do the LCA's sit level or at an angle with the car on a level surface? Also, what is the pinion angle set to?

 

[thunderstang]

The LCA's angle down towards the back, and I think I have the PA at about -1.5 and thats with the 1pc DS.

 

[Bkid]

The LCA's angle down towards the back, and I think I have the PA at about -1.5 and thats with the 1pc DS.

I would add -2.4 on the pinion angle if it was my car.The springs are killing you.

 

[firestang70]

With a manual tranny DRs have a tough time and ET Streets will recover faster. As fin1 was saying you usually have to lift with DRs.

 

[US-1]

My springs are Eibach Prokit (about 1.5 inch drop).

There's your problem.

 

[j-stang]

i have pretty much the same suspension set up you have but have the sportlines (i know they are killing me i like em tho) and i could never get better than a 1.9 60ft on radials. no matter what i did it just wasnt gonna happen. there was no happy medium between blowing them off or bogging the car. i swapped over to a set of the e.t. streets bais ply's and absolutly love em. i am cuttin low 1.7's with them. i know i could be getting lower 60's but for what i have the bais ply's just work. btw i am running 26x11.5x16 on stock v6 rims

 

[thunderstang]

Before I jump in to read the whole thread on the CJ springs. With my car being lowered will the raise the rear end back up. (are they stock height or a little lower.)

And correct me if I'm wrong but if I add another -2.4 degrees to my -1.5 PA thats a bit much. I haven't read anywhere of running a -3.9 PA.

 

[kevinatfms]

I've found that with my BMR lowering springs, it's best for me to run my rear shocks 1 - 2 turns from firm. I haven't tried the CJ springs yet, but I will next time I go to the track.

maybe your rear end is unloading from the shocks being too soft? try firming them up a little, keep your front as it is but firm the rear up a little and see what that does...
i had qa1's on my lightning and if the rear wasnt firm enough it would squat and then unload causing the nitto dr's to go up in smoke, i firmed them up a little bit each run and got my 60 fts down to a 1.61-1.64's and the et dropped significantly

 

[joedls]

maybe your rear end is unloading from the shocks being too soft? try firming them up a little, keep your front as it is but firm the rear up a little and see what that does...
i had qa1's on my lightning and if the rear wasnt firm enough it would squat and then unload causing the nitto dr's to go up in smoke, i firmed them up a little bit each run and got my 60 fts down to a 1.61-1.64's and the et dropped significantly

I can't get much firmer that 1 - 2 turns out from fully firm. And I've tried firmer settings with no better results.