My goal and how to get there

[BleedinBlue]

Simple question...is it possible to get an automatic 5.0 to run a 11.9999 consistently on the stock converter and street tires in full street trim? My goal is to get into the 11's, then throw on a converter and DR's to put me DEEP into the 11's. I'm only about three tenths off that mark, but I'm not sure how to get there. Suck it up and get a CAI for minor gains? Aluminum driveshaft maybe?

Now this time slip was the only clean run I had last week after an updated tune and o/r pipe. I ran out of time and had to leave...so the car may or may not run a tad bit faster. It WAS done in good air.

As listed in the signature...the car only has a tune, o/r X, BMR springs, STR.T shocks/struts, panhard, and non-adjustable LCA's.

 

[Wicked GT]

Both the CAI and the 1pc driveshaft will play a part in getting you there. I can't remember how they figure out the rotating mass vs 60ft & 1/4 mile time cuts but thought I read the aluminum driveshaft was worth .1-.2 in the quarter mile.

 

[2011/5.0]

What are you calling a street tire? All season tire or a dot approved drag radial

 

[BleedinBlue]

My Nitto 555's.

 

[Whiskey11]

My Nitto 555's.

Yick... Part of the issue is there at least and I know that and I don't even drag race!

Rough year for Missouri... stay safe out there.

 

[2011/5.0]

if their not the R compound you need a great prepped track to be consistent. Also a low da and a great tune. I would just do a rear swaybar relocation kit and some 15x10 rims with a good drag radial and it will be consistent at the strip

 

[BleedinBlue]

Yick... Part of the issue is there at least and I know that and I don't even drag race!

Ha. I realize they've been eclipsed in recent years, but I've been perfectly satisfied with them on the street. At least in this run I managed a 2.02 60 with them, which I don't think is that bad. Maybe I'm still in the bolt on 3V power level mindset, but I wouldn't expect anything better than a 2.00 60 out of an all season, 100% street tire.

Regardless...they're what I started with and where I will base my comparison from. I'm essentially looking to increase my power level enough to hit my 11's before I change the tire and converter.

 

[lindertw]

drive your car as it sits to MIR / Capitol / Cecil County, take advantage of our negative DA, run your 11.9x and drive back home.

 

[Torched S197]

Ha. I realize they've been eclipsed in recent years, but I've been perfectly satisfied with them on the street. At least in this run I managed a 2.02 60 with them, which I don't think is that bad. Maybe I'm still in the bolt on 3V power level mindset, but I wouldn't expect anything better than a 2.00 60 out of an all season, 100% street tire.

Regardless...they're what I started with and where I will base my comparison from. I'm essentially looking to increase my power level enough to hit my 11's before I change the tire and converter.

I pulled a 1.81 on Bfg kdw 2's on spray in my 3v

 

[Johnf78]

Ha. I realize they've been eclipsed in recent years, but I've been perfectly satisfied with them on the street. At least in this run I managed a 2.02 60 with them, which I don't think is that bad. Maybe I'm still in the bolt on 3V power level mindset, but I wouldn't expect anything better than a 2.00 60 out of an all season, 100% street tire.

Regardless...they're what I started with and where I will base my comparison from. I'm essentially looking to increase my power level enough to hit my 11's before I change the tire and converter.

I ran 1.92 with the 555's with all stock suspension other than sportlines in a mild bolt on 3v. You get some good tires on there and get your 60 ft's down and you might just hit your goal without anything else.

 

[Grabber Blue 5.0]

You'll need a better tire for starters.

A CAI will net you nothing.

Who's tune are you running?

 

[BleedinBlue]

The tune is done by a local guy.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Holy smokes, TIRES!!

My 5500# F-150 shorts faster than that with 33" all terrains on it.

No reason that car can't be in the high 1.7's with a tire.

 

[Riptide]

I'd be surprised if you got even .1 > ET out of the driveshaft and cai.

It's tough to get a good 60' out of a few boltons on the stock converter. Look at my sig and you'll see what I mean.

My friend's car that traps 2mph better than I do and has 4.10 gears gets a 1.9.

 

[Sharad]

Does it spin at all? The stock converters are notoriously tight. How are you leaving? Powerbraking, or flashing the converter?

 

[BleedinBlue]

I'm definitely spinning off the line. No power breaking, launching with one foot and just flooring it.

 

[BleedinBlue]

I'd be surprised if you got even .1 > ET out of the driveshaft and cai.

It's tough to get a good 60' out of a few boltons on the stock converter. Look at my sig and you'll see what I mean.

My friend's car that traps 2mph better than I do and has 4.10 gears gets a 1.9.

Last week at the track I ran next to a guy with a '14 automatic. His was tuned by the same guy as mine, and had my mods plus a 4000 stall, DR's, 4.10 gears and E85. His best run of the night was 11.93 @ 113 while getting 1.6x 60's. I HAVE to believe his gears were killing him...I simply just don't want to be in his shoes. With tires I think I could beat him.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

CAI & 1-pc d/s won't get you into the 11's. I do a lot of drag racing and documented my ET's in a separate thread with the 1-pc and 2-pc d/s. CAI's are just eye candy, no power to be had; it's the tuning that nets the improvements whenever you see a CAI/tune write up.

Proper tires and converter will get you well into the mid to high 11's.

 

[BleedinBlue]

Proper tires and converter will get you well into the mid to high 11's.

Yup, I know. I guess the consensus is I'm about at the end of my bolt-on rope? Tires and converter, then I'm done unless I go F/I?

 

[Five Oh Brian]

Yup, I know. I guess the consensus is I'm about at the end of my bolt-on rope? Tires and converter, then I'm done unless I go F/I?

Well, you could do a Boss manifold with bigger throttle body, cams, headwork, long tube headers, etc. Tons of money that would actually pay for a supercharger, so it all depends on whether you prefer to stay NA or go FI.