Anyone know places that sells these or who makes them? Eaton? I did find a couple of places and the price has doubled since I last bought one. Just looking for other options before dropping $100+ for it.
Need: Saleen Bypass Valve Actuator
- Thread starter scramblr
- Start date
NickD87
forum member
Jon Bond performance should have one as well, I ordered a low vacuum bypass for my Eaton from them and they list many different types
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Thanks guys. Waiting for an email from S281 on price. Found it on Jon Bond as well, but pricey ($149). Looks like Brenspeed may have some for $99. Price on these went up a lot. ughhh....
Brenspeed has it as well with the lowest price, $99. Now I need to figure what caused it to break before I install the new one.
If this is the same unit, it's $79.99
https://www.vmpperformance.com/Bypass-Valve-BPV-for-2-3L-TVS-on-GT500-Cobra-5-p/newbypassbpv.htm
https://www.vmpperformance.com/Bypass-Valve-BPV-for-2-3L-TVS-on-GT500-Cobra-5-p/newbypassbpv.htm
Yes I know, I need to find what caused it to rip.
Unfortunately that one has two outlets and the Saleen only has one.
Do you have the stop screw installed and adjusted correctly?
I do. This has happened twice before until I found the problem. See post 45 in below thread. I'll be looking inside the s/c tomorrow to see if the same thing happened.
https://www.s197forum.com/threads/acceleration-problem.65429/page-3
https://www.s197forum.com/threads/acceleration-problem.65429/page-3
I had the same problem, however I don't see how that could affect the the bypass valve as the broken piece just rattles around on top of the cooler? Just allows hot air to bypass the IC. One issue I discovered on mine was the butterfly valve would stick closed until I adjusted the screw to keep it from closing so tight, that could possibly cause a bind? Grasping at straws? Sure hope you figure it out, those canisters aren't cheap @ $100 a pop. Good Luck!
When it happened before I think I was getting so much turbulence in the s/c that it "may" have caused vacuum issues and/or the butterfly to act erratically enough to rip the diaphragm. Happened twice until I fixed it six years ago and then all has been good.
Just took the top of the s/c and the h/e is intact. I did find a bit of oil in there that's probably coming up from the rotors, not sure. I saw it last time I took it apart as well. I have breathers, so it didn't come in through the intake or PCV.
But I think I know what may have happened. I swapped an old catch can with a breather to the passenger side with a new one . Soon after I developed an oil leak at the oil pan and thought it was the rear main. Changed the gaskets, cleaned it up and the oil leak persisted through the gasket on the left side of the oil pan. However, it was mainly leaking when I'd go WOT as I'd see a nice cloud behind me. Long story short, turns out the catch can I was using was too restrictive and the crank case could not relieve pressure, so the pressure found the path of least resistance. Just got that fixed, added a breather to the passenger side in-lieu of the can and the CFM breather in-place of the oil cap. One on the drivers side was already there. No more oil leak as the motor can now breath.
My hypothesis is the pressure in the crank case looking for escape may have stressed the bypass to the point where the diaphragm ripped. The new one will be here Monday, so I'll swap it out and see what happens. Or I may just be full of shit and have no idea what's going on and another Benjamin. LOL.... I'll double check the stop screw as well.
cost me
Just took the top of the s/c and the h/e is intact. I did find a bit of oil in there that's probably coming up from the rotors, not sure. I saw it last time I took it apart as well. I have breathers, so it didn't come in through the intake or PCV.
But I think I know what may have happened. I swapped an old catch can with a breather to the passenger side with a new one . Soon after I developed an oil leak at the oil pan and thought it was the rear main. Changed the gaskets, cleaned it up and the oil leak persisted through the gasket on the left side of the oil pan. However, it was mainly leaking when I'd go WOT as I'd see a nice cloud behind me. Long story short, turns out the catch can I was using was too restrictive and the crank case could not relieve pressure, so the pressure found the path of least resistance. Just got that fixed, added a breather to the passenger side in-lieu of the can and the CFM breather in-place of the oil cap. One on the drivers side was already there. No more oil leak as the motor can now breath.
My hypothesis is the pressure in the crank case looking for escape may have stressed the bypass to the point where the diaphragm ripped. The new one will be here Monday, so I'll swap it out and see what happens. Or I may just be full of shit and have no idea what's going on and another Benjamin. LOL.... I'll double check the stop screw as well.
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