Naturally. Unless you use some sort of rod/spherical end.Okay, that’s fine .... except that if it’s the “right way,” then the same has to be applied to the UCA, panhard, and sway.
Naturally. Unless you use some sort of rod/spherical end.Okay, that’s fine .... except that if it’s the “right way,” then the same has to be applied to the UCA, panhard, and sway.
... Bolts on these kind of bushings should be torqued ride height:
....Poly bushings are totally different. It really doesn't matter where the suspension
is when you tighten the bolts.
If that is the case then they are already being replaced with MM CC plates.If you had it up off the ground, and the steering was stiff with no road
contact, I am going to go with strut bearing caps, too much drag for
some reason.
As far as I know, there are no under drive bullies installed.underdrive pullies installed? noticed my steering a tad harder when I installed mine.
It doesn't take much to pop off the tie rod ends. Pop them off and see if the steering is still stiff. If it is then it's rack or steering shaft related. If it goes back to normal then it's related to the suspension. At that point you can turn each wheel by hand and see if one or both are hard to move.
Hmmmm.....It would narrow it down to the hydraulics or rack, if you pop the tie-rod ends out of
the knuckles and see if it is still stiff. If it's freed up after doing so, then more
then likely it's the strut bearing caps. Doubt the end links would be the issue.
Update incase anyone has the same issue. Replaced the intermediate steering shaft and solved everything. The car turns freely and butter smooth now. Found mine online for $60 on Ebay. Matching part numbers and rust free.
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