Nitrous?

[joedls]

Thanks, Mark.

 

[Freaknazty]

ok i got a question for you guys is it worth it to run the cryo2 system to just the intercooler ( not in it, on it ) or should i just use a nitrios kit to do the same ? and i shouldnt have to adjust any tune just for that huh ?

 

[joedls]

ok i got a question for you guys is it worth it to run the cryo2 system to just the intercooler ( not in it, on it ) or should i just use a nitrios kit to do the same ? and i shouldnt have to adjust any tune just for that huh ?

I don't think I'd spray CO2 anywhere it might have a chance of making it into my intake.

 

[ChevyKiller]

^^^ Zactly! I bought a complete cry02 system with 2 intake bulbs, and even a fuel line block and after examining the kit I sent it back for a refund and put an N20 kit on the car.

Their spray bar system is a joke because it is far too easy to get C02 where it shouldn't be and lose power.

I was big on it until I had the actual kit in my possession...

 

[95PGTech]

I'm not going to pretend to be the world's leading expert on BAPs, but if you needed the BAP to run the 10% pulley, it would stand to reason a 50 shot would put you at the limit of the BAP or over it. I'd protect my investment with a dual fuel pump style system.

I would retard the timing 2 degrees in the range that your nitrous is activated, and would not activate below 3000rpm or not at WOT. I would use a WOT switch and a window switch to bring it on rather than a button.

The long tubes are going to be very important with the nitrous as you are tempted to spray more and more. The exhaust side of a nitrous car's cylinder head is extremely important for example. I wish I had taken better pictures of my recent motor's melt down (not nitrous related, spraying 150 wet on stock motor, every bolt on known to exist). The exhaust side of my heads and long tubes tell the tale of the abuse that motor was going through.

And, for god sakes, get it to a dyno.

 

[joedls]

I'm not going to pretend to be the world's leading expert on BAPs, but if you needed the BAP to run the 10% pulley, it would stand to reason a 50 shot would put you at the limit of the BAP or over it. I'd protect my investment with a dual fuel pump style system.

I currently run my BAP knob at 10. I have more capacity with this, I believe. And I just intend to spray a 35 HP shot. I also intend to datalog my fuel pump duty cycle and AFR with my wideband. I understand that if I max out the capacity of my fuel system that I have to go to a dual fuel pump system.

I would retard the timing 2 degrees in the range that your nitrous is activated, and would not activate below 3000rpm or not at WOT. I would use a WOT switch and a window switch to bring it on rather than a button.

The Zex kit has a WOT switch built into it and I've programmed my window switch to only spray between 4-6K RPM. What made you think I was doing this with a button?

The long tubes are going to be very important with the nitrous as you are tempted to spray more and more. The exhaust side of a nitrous car's cylinder head is extremely important for example. I wish I had taken better pictures of my recent motor's melt down (not nitrous related, spraying 150 wet on stock motor, every bolt on known to exist). The exhaust side of my heads and long tubes tell the tale of the abuse that motor was going through.

I will take that into consideration if I ever spray more than I am currently planning to, but I don't believe I will on this stock block.

And, for god sakes, get it to a dyno.

Again, really? For a 35 HP shot? I had a dyno tune done on this car and was never comfortable with the tuner. So I just went through the process of having Justin Starkey (VMP Tuning) tune the car through e-mail. The process took a couple of weeks of me datalogging with my SCT and wideband and him tweaking the tune, and to tell you the truth, I feel much more comfortable with the tune now and my car feels like it has more power. I've yet to test it at the track to compare results, but plan to soon. Plus I learned alot through the process. I'm kinda old school and like to get my hands dirty, and yes, I've paid for that privelege at times. But that's what makes it fun for me.

 

[Nickoli]

spray the shit out of it! 35 is a VERY small shot and I wouldn't wory about it. I used to have a kenne bell 1500 on a 95 5.0 and when I maxed out the blower at 11psi I threw a 100 shot on it.

 

[95PGTech]

Again, really? For a 35 HP shot? I had a dyno tune done on this car and was never comfortable with the tuner. So I just went through the process of having Justin Starkey (VMP Tuning) tune the car through e-mail. The process took a couple of weeks of me datalogging with my SCT and wideband and him tweaking the tune, and to tell you the truth, I feel much more comfortable with the tune now and my car feels like it has more power. I've yet to test it at the track to compare results, but plan to soon. Plus I learned alot through the process. I'm kinda old school and like to get my hands dirty, and yes, I've paid for that privelege at times. But that's what makes it fun for me.

You went from a poor tuner at a dyno to a good tuner mail order. With nitrous, I would ALWAYS get my car on the dyno (obviously at a good tuner). Especially after seeing how much wear and tear on my motor my big shot put. Datalog it on the dyno and send the graphs back to Justin with your SCT datalog.

 

[joedls]

You went from a poor tuner at a dyno to a good tuner mail order. With nitrous, I would ALWAYS get my car on the dyno (obviously at a good tuner). Especially after seeing how much wear and tear on my motor my big shot put. Datalog it on the dyno and send the graphs back to Justin with your SCT datalog.

You're telling me I should run my car on a dyno just so I can send the logs to Justin and have him tune it? Why would I do this on a dyno instead of just on the street? Doesn't make sense to me, but I'll admit I'm pretty new to playing with anything that doesn't have a carb on it.

I followed Mark's (ChevyKiller) advice and consulted my tuner, Justin. He told me with that small of a shot just pull a couple of degrees of timing with my handheld device and I should be good to go.

 

[ChevyKiller]

Zactly, we have to remember we are talking about a 35 shot here - not a super blast...lol

 

[95PGTech]

You're telling me I should run my car on a dyno just so I can send the logs to Justin and have him tune it? Why would I do this on a dyno instead of just on the street? Doesn't make sense to me, but I'll admit I'm pretty new to playing with anything that doesn't have a carb on it.

I followed Mark's (ChevyKiller) advice and consulted my tuner, Justin. He told me with that small of a shot just pull a couple of degrees of timing with my handheld device and I should be good to go.

A dyno puts a different load on a car than a 4th gear highway pull, and from my experience, the in car widebands can be way, way off. Ideally, you would dyno at Justin's shop.

 

[joedls]

A dyno puts a different load on a car than a 4th gear highway pull, and from my experience, the in car widebands can be way, way off. Ideally, you would dyno at Justin's shop.

A couple of things (OK so maybe more than a couple):

First: I'm using an LC-1 wideband/ the one that Justin recommended and sold to me. So I would hope it's accurate and from the datalogs I've run, it seems to be. I free-air calibrated it before datalogging each run I sent Justin.

Second: Justin had me do WOT runs in 3rd gear from ~800 RPM - 6000 RPM, not in 4th gear.

Third: And again, I'm asking because I'm new at this, why would it matter to me if a dyno puts a different load on the car than when I'm driving it? What matters to me is what happens when I drive it.

Lastly, I'm not taking my car to Florida just so Justin can dyno tune it.

 

[Androdz]

spray the shit out of it! 35 is a VERY small shot and I wouldn't wory about it. I used to have a kenne bell 1500 on a 95 5.0 and when I maxed out the blower at 11psi I threw a 100 shot on it.

woah woah woah wait a second remember when you are f/i and you spray it the shot doubles. with a 100shot at 12 psi you will easily gain around 200whp.

Andrew

 

[ChevyKiller]

Agreed - but for the OP - we are talking about a 30-35 shot. Of course I will always recommend to get a custom dyno tune every time you increase performance if you can - but I believe he will be just fine with pulling 2º out of the shot band with a 35 shot and the biggest downside may be his plugs take a crap quicker.

 

[Nickoli]

but with cooler IAT's it should be able to keep the timing should'nt it?

 

[Androdz]

a 100 shot will break havoc if he isn't forged

 

[joedls]

Not to worry. No 100 shot here.

 

[05stroker]

How did this turn out for you ?

 

[joedls]

Worked great. I dropped ~.2 in the 1/4.

 

[05stroker]

Worked great. I dropped ~.2 in the 1/4.

Did it lower the AITs ?