NOT Another...Yes...another auotx build thread

csamsh

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So I decided to share my exploits here, looks like several of you guys get some good feedback when you post what you do, so I figured I'd do the same.

First...a name. Well, I hate yellow Camaros, or is it my car that hates them?


Anyway...one of my friends started calling my car "shockwave" so we'll go with that.

I've had the car for a couple years, never wanted to do any sort of autox/tracking with it due to it being my DD, and due to my 50 mile each way commute. I got a new job this January (And a decent pay bump...heh) so, under the knife my car goes.

This is how it was in January:


What it had going on-
Suspension- Koni Sports (Previously Steeda "somethings") with Eibach sport springs. For my take on this setup, see here: spoiler alert- I will talk about some of this again.
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1800741&postcount=99

Tires- 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot Super Sports- great street tires...not so great track tires.

The car is a Brembo car, and I ran the ORIGINAL pads to 42k miles...pretty impressive. No track work ever on those, but I wasn't exactly "putting around" either. The picture above is from Deal's Gap, where I spent a fair amount of time when I lived in Alabama. GO if you ever have the chance. DO NOT MISS the Cherohala Skyway.

Back on topic- I had autocrossed before a little bit, was never very serious about it. One of my friends from school convinced my to go in January with the Mustang, and I got hooked. Since then, and since my car is no longer a DD, I have decided to make it a dual purpose autox/hpde (maybe TT in a few years? who knows? Stuff gets boring after a while with no competition) car. In the months since then, I ran several events with Delta and Gulf Coast SCCA regions, with several of the events at NOLA motorsports park, which is a great facility. This is where I'll pick up the story...

May 5- Delta AutoX- I had just bought the first round of "real" parts- AST 4150's w/550F/250R springs, whiteline swaybars, and a Torsen T2R.

This thing will change your damn life. I nearly crashed the car turning out of the shop, it rotates so well now.

I had been running on some scrub 275/35/18 g-Force R1's, because they were cheap, and because I wanted to try some R-Comps, and because I knew they would last a while, and possibly be able to be resold. Well...yeah they last a while. I don't think I've been able to heat cycle them yet. They have about 75 runs on them and look BRAND F******* NEW. They don't EVER feel tacky like other R-comps. I DO NOT recommend them for autox.


My hope is to run street tires in STU (please, SEB!!!) and be done with these, or, if we don't get that move, to run 315/35/18 V710's in ESP.

Back on topic- May 4 was the Delta AutoX, I was pumped about all the new parts, and I had some "trackside support" too. You can probably guess who that would be by the parts combo and the wheels. Anyway...I used it. Thanks guys.
_DSF1201-L.jpg


Anyway- the results of the autox were...not great. My car had a pretty catastrophic push, and any corner entry speed at all was greeted with the lovely feeling of understeer. I had ZERO entry speed, I actually had less than I did with street tires and Konis. Conekiller (STX) beat me by 4 SECONDS. Terry beat my by 6, and he wasn't even really competing. Something was WRONG. While my car was up, Ryan from Vorshlag noticed "some" (ok, a crazy amount) of front bar preload. I will let this picture do the talking, after I got a more suitable endlink-

Don't ask me to explain why this made the car push...I don't know. BUT, when I put the shorter endlink on there, everything was fixed, and the car felt good again.

Soon after that event I moved to OKC for work, and was out of any events for a while due to moving stuff. Anyway, since then, I've had two things (both last weekend)

June 29- Eagle's Canyon Track Day

FIRST TRACK DAY EVER!!! WOOO!!!! I was excited. It was a blast, and I'm hooked on it. I ran on the Pilot Super Sports, and they didn't seem to have a whole lot of grip. My instructor thought they sucked as well. Oh well, better to learn with less grip I think.
After all the brake fade horror stories, I went with Carbotech XP16/XP12 pads, and super blue fluid. Changing stuff trackside (really easy, btw)
20130629_110159-L.jpg


The brakes didn't fade at all, I was on them pretty hard by the last couple sessions, so hard that it made it difficult to do things like shift and steer. I never like the seats in this car anyway, and I think that being planted a little more securely would help lots of things. So, that's up next.

Here's a picture of the car at that event:
DSC_8970-L.jpg


Anyway, this was a success, and my intention of doing track stuff with this car is gaining traction.

June 5- OK SCCA AutoX #5

First event with the new region. They hold events at Remington Park in OKC, which is pretty good, but it aint NOLA. Anyway- this event went pretty well. We got 9 runs, which was cool.
Format explanation:
-First five runs were "in Class," ESP for me.
-Second four runs were in "PAX," with choices of:
-M- Old guys
-X- ST classes and R-comps
-T- Street tires
-N- Novice
Technically...I'm still novice eligible, but I ran in X for more fun. Doesn't look like anybody here runs ESP, which sucks.

My first five runs were not too great- inconsistent, with bad feeling lines. The car was SUPER loose steady-state (and was at Eagles canyon as well, which was pretty unnerving) and even resulted in me spinning once in a sweeper. I took the rest of the run 60%, and learned the line..hmm.. may have to take first runs slow to figure out what it feels like from in the car? That may be a viable strategy.

Anyway- On runs 6-9, I dropped about 1.5 seconds, from run 4, and ran +/-.12 seconds between runs 6-9. Here's the best run of the day-


I think a 34.9 may have been possible with a hero run, but whatever. If I can't get it in 9 runs...the problem is clearly with me. I would love to do an autox school, and I'd love to collect some data during my runs. At this point, I am holding the car up, not the other way around.

So that was fun. Short course, but fun. A decent-ish metric- I was about 2 seconds slower than a BSP E46 M3 on pretty new A6's with a very good driver. Is there that much time in tire compound, from R1 to A6? I have no idea. But for now I'll think there might be, and that makes me feel good.

I ran this event on AX6 pads, which are pretty fantastic. I run them on the street too, with some noise. Going from 42k mi Brembo pads to brand new AX6's, with stainless lines, was a bit of a difference.

Since this event, I have softened the rear bar in an effort to get the car closer to neutral, or at least to the point where I can do finer adjustments of balance with tire pressures.

Plans for the car for the future-
-Forgestar is building my 18x11 F14's as I type this. If we get STU, they will get 285 RS3's. If we don't, they're getting 315 V710 (for the height)
-I need some seats. I like the look and feel of Cobra Imolas
-If we get the diff cover- I want to do a Watt's Link, Probably Whiteline becuase I know it fits with their rear bar, and I have been
impressed with their stuff.
-This winter I'm going to put the car on jackstands for a while and do headers and intake. Even with the R1's, I don't have the power to spin the wheels at any given moment, which is something I want.
-I want a front splitter because it looks cool.
-I want to do a catch can on the cylinder head=>intake PCV tube
-I want to do a more permanent solution to my rigged up spurting axle tube solution:



I have since repositioned the flask so it is above the axle tube so the gear oil should drain back down, but I'm still not satisfied. The barb fittings still leak.

If this wasn't TLDR, thanks for reading.
 
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skyline247

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I like your reviews, particularly on the various suspension setups. I'm looking forward to seeing where this build goes.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2
 

csamsh

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on the barb leak, it looks like pipe thread, get some Teflon tape and tighten a little more.

I have since done this- the problem is surprisingly with the axle fitting, not the can fitting. I'm thinking a tiny hose clamp or some zip-ties may do the trick, because, well, zip ties always do the trick.
 

csamsh

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Where did you get the shorter end links?

From Vorshlag- I believe they're for a WRX? Terry if you see this, please confirm this or correct me. They look to be Whiteline products.
 

neema

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subscribed. I love reading up on this stuff.

Why did you decide to go with an xp16/xp12 setup? I only ask because I was recommended an xp12/xp10 setup and I have more tire than you do (not to knock your setup, but I'm questioning my recommendation).

Also, why not use the BFG R1s on track?
 
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Full_Tilt

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I like the axle catch can.
In my experience that kind of hose will eventually "soak through" with oil and basically start to deteriorate. You could get some oil resistant hose and some better clamps and it would should work pretty well.

Its a funny thing when I hear people call someone "ghetto", or a "ricer" for rigging something up like that.
Ive seen a lot of purpose built race cars in the SCCA using plastic bottles as overflow tanks and breathers. Its lightweight and it works just as well as a 10lb chunk of billet aluminum.
 

csamsh

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subscribed. I love reading up on this stuff.

Why did you decide to go with an xp16/xp12 setup? I only ask because I was recommended an xp12/xp10 setup and I have more tire than you do (not to knock your setup, but I'm questioning my recommendation).

Also, why not use the BFG R1s on track?

Why 16/12? Because it was recommended by somebody who knows Carbotech brakes pretty well. They worked out fine as far as I can tell, but I don't really have any amount of data other than "they worked well for that day" to back up this assertion. I had zero fade whatsoever, and didn't take any cool-off laps for the brakes.

I didn't use the R1's for the track day because it was my first real "big track" day in this car, or ever for that matter. I thought it better to learn how the car acted with less grip (and more noise) than have my mistakes masked by good rubber. I'll get to the sticky stuff eventually. To your point though- the tires were absolutely the underachievers of anything on the car that day, besides the driver. :p
 
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csamsh

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I like the axle catch can.
In my experience that kind of hose will eventually "soak through" with oil and basically start to deteriorate. You could get some oil resistant hose and some better clamps and it would should work pretty well.

Its a funny thing when I hear people call someone "ghetto", or a "ricer" for rigging something up like that.
Ive seen a lot of purpose built race cars in the SCCA using plastic bottles as overflow tanks and breathers. Its lightweight and it works just as well as a 10lb chunk of billet aluminum.

Yeah I hear you. My logic- does it catch oil? Yes. Did it cost 7 bucks to do? Yes. Seems ok to me.

I need to take another photo of where I have the can now, it's in a much better spot, and doesn't fill with oil anymore.
 

Sky Render

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Do you still drive this car ~100 miles daily? I'm asking because I wonder how well the T2R works on the street under daily-driven conditions.
 

csamsh

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Did Vorhlag or Terry help you choose your spring rates?

Yes. I chose these because...

Do you still drive this car ~100 miles daily? I'm asking because I wonder how well the T2R works on the street under daily-driven conditions.

The car is no longer a DD (although the ride is still very good). However, when it does get street driven, I don't notice any ill effects from the torsen.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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Where did you get the shorter end links?
Yea, we have a bunch of lengths of Whiteline endlinks we keep in stock. We first tried this shorter length design when a local shop had issues installing some S197 4150s onto a car. This fixed him up and Mark got the very next set, which we luckily had in stock. Now we're recommending this length end link with all S197 AST 4150 shocks we sell.

DSC_2151-M.jpg
_DSF9783%20copy-M.jpg


Whiteline's endlinks are the nicest I've seen on the aftermarket, bar none. We've worked with dozens of brands and nothing else has the quality, materials, engineering or unique elastomers their's do. WL end links are always adjustable in length, made with CHUNKY aluminum hex bar center sections, and use OEM-quality sealed ball joints when those style ends are employed. Works of art.

_DSC0665-M.jpg
_DSC9301_DSC9301-M.jpg


These endlinks also come with Whiteline swaybar kits, which is partly why their swaybar prices "seem" high when compared to other swaybar brands. Almost nobody else includes new endlinks with their swaybars.

Good thread - subscribed.
 
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white86hatch

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Nice build! I'll be mirroring yours very closely as funds allow. The AST's are high on my list as soon as the car isn't my daily driver.
 

ArizonaGT

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I have the UMI/Strano endlinks sitting in a box waiting to go on, if those are too long for some reason, I may be purchasing a set from Vorshlag.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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I have the UMI/Strano endlinks sitting in a box waiting to go on, if those are too long for some reason, I may be purchasing a set from Vorshlag.

The Strano endlinks are nice, but I think he uses the stock length. Which works with most struts, just not the S197 AST 4150. These struts have a relocated swaybar bracket that need a much shorter endlink. So unless you have the AST 4150, no worries. :)
 

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