46addict
13726548
And going back to what you said earlier about being 8-9* off, these cams are spec'd at .547 intake lift and .555 exhaust lift. Can I be 8 degrees off with these cams and not have PTV?
I revisited this post and realized what you were saying about being 8-9* off refers to the reluctors, not the cams themselves.I would start with the part number for the lockout. If they are one-piece (per cam), they are a pretty brainless install... they just drop right in. If they are two-piece, you have to put the cam in the right position to get them installed (which puts the cams 10* retarded, IIRC). If you have a pair of two-piece lockouts, the reluctor finger will be off and the CPS will register it being 1/42, or roughly 8-9* off. I believe that is enough to trigger the CPS codes.
So new reluctor wheels fixed the problem or was there anything else needed?I had a similar issue without reading all 7 pages with a customers car stroked with a kb 2.8 whicked up, turns out the reluctor wheel had worn on the edges that line up with the crank pin. that solved our issue.
So what problem did this cause? The CPS engine codes? Those are gone now with the more common lockouts, but it runs like ass and eventually cuts out one side altogether (spark and fuel). Once all our remodeling projects are done and I have room in the garage again, I'm going to pull the engine and put the 10* retarded lockouts back in and see how it runs.I had a similar issue without reading all 7 pages with a customers car stroked with a kb 2.8 whicked up, turns out the reluctor wheel had worn on the edges that line up with the crank pin. that solved our issue.
I don’t mean to thread jack or call you out, but you weren’t by any chance on an episode of Live PD last week, were you??I did not build this car. This is JoshK's car/build. This car has gone through several changes but the last update is that he had Livernois cams and lockouts installed. I'm fortunate to have the S&H stealth turbo kit because there's a lot of room to work with in the engine bay. Pulling the valve covers off should be no problem.
Yes that was me. I still haven't seen the episode.I don’t mean to thread jack or call you out, but you weren’t by any chance on an episode of Live PD last week, were you??
Yes that was me. I still haven't seen the episode.
I just checked and verified that I have 12v (13.5v, to be exact) before each resistor-dealie. Either they are bad (not sure if that's possupos) or it's something else. Did yours actually go bad and need to be replaced?the one that can be seen is circled. the other is hidden by the intake tube on the other bank. it only has 1 wire, and that wire with key on should be hot with 12 volts. if it isnt hot with key on and both are plugged up, then you need to find the source of voltage loss
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From what I understand, there are several conditions that will trigger the "shut down" of an entire bank... mostly to protect the catalytic converters. When the engine starts, it's in open loop... working off set fuel/spark tables. After a period, it goes into closed loop, accepting feedback from the O2 sensors and making changes in the form of fuel trims. If one side doesn't respond enough to bring AFR in line, the engine will then run that side on the opposite bank O2s, effectively mirroring the fuel trims on both sides. If that doesn't work, it'll cut fuel/spark to the faulty bank altogether.What do you guys mean by "side not firing at all" or dead bank? No spark or fuel on that side at all?