Oil pump failure

ryanmc92000

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2005 GT 4.6l. So, other day i was driving, everything was great. I stopped and came back out and drove off, almost immediately i had low oil pressure light, heard noise, so immediately pulled off into a spot. So not even 1/32 of a mile at 5mph dit it run like that. Towed home, drained oil and it is crsytal clean, flushed engine amd not 1 silver soec. Do these pumps fail like this?
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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It would be pretty unusual but the stock oil pump has powdered metal gears that can fracture on supercharged set ups especially when driven hard. How many miles do you have on the engine?
A '13-'14 GT500 pump (Ford part no. DR3Z6600A) is an inexpensive upgrade and fits directly in the 4.6 3V. Just get a new 4.6 3V oil pump pick up assembly (Ford part no. 4R3Z6622AA) to go with it.
If you don't mind spending a bit more, you could go for the MMR Hurricane #450460.
 

ryanmc92000

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Car has 150k it would be the original stock pump. I am not sc but car has alot of mods and was dynoed at 330hp to wheels. I am going to take apart next weekend to look at pump.
 

Pentalab

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It would be pretty unusual but the stock oil pump has powdered metal gears that can fracture on supercharged set ups especially when driven hard. How many miles do you have on the engine?
A '13-'14 GT500 pump (Ford part no. DR3Z6600A) is an inexpensive upgrade and fits directly in the 4.6 3V. Just get a new 4.6 3V oil pump pick up assembly (Ford part no. 4R3Z6622AA) to go with it.
If you don't mind spending a bit more, you could go for the MMR Hurricane #450460.
What exactly is involved in changing out the oil pump Dino. It's driven off the crank...and is internal. This does sound like a fun job.
 

lwarrior1016

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It’s a very involved job, but not difficult if you know your way around your tools.

Pull the radiator, cam covers, the front accessories, and then the front cover. You’ll have to remove the timing chains to get to the oil pump. The oil pickup tube is bolted to the bottom of the pump and that bolt is very tricky to get out without dropping it in the pan, but it’s doable.

Don’t forget the crank trigger wheel that goes on the crank snout.
 

ryanmc92000

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Yes, i know what im doing with engines, i plan on dropping pan anyhow to inspect. I am going to go with the high pressure/flow pump. And the steeda torsion dampr to prevent anything in future
 

lwarrior1016

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All the pumps I’ve put in my builds, 2v, 3v, and 4vs, I’ve used stock 3v pumps with gears. The pumps are cast with 3v/gt500 on it. They are high pressure pumps and I’ve never had an issue, even at 8k rpm.
 

ryanmc92000

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Any ideas then what would cause zero oil pressure and have no metallic in oil? Ive heard so many people say these gears fracture and break often with modded engines.
 

Midlife Crises

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Remove the oil pressure switch and install a temporary oil pressure gauge. Crank the engine and see if it really reads zero. If I remember correctly my engine would not run with the oil pressure switch disconnected.
 

Midlife Crises

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I did that, i got zero
Ouch! Now you have to look. Loosen the oil pan bolts and remove the front cover and valve covers. After you get the timing chains and gears out of the way you can remove the oil pump. On my car I cannot remove the oil pan without lifting the engine so good luck with that. if I found broken pump gears I’d be very tempted to inspect the main bearings and I would pull the engine to do that.
Dino Dino Bambino has suggested a good pump and pickup option that will deliver all the volume a 3V needs. I would add a set of Boundry gears to the pump.
 

ryanmc92000

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Yes, i drained and flushed engine and not a single speck of silver, so pretty sure bearings are good. Ot wasnt even running a 32nd of a mile. I have an engine support bar to give me enough room to drop pan and inspect anyhow
 

lwarrior1016

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I’m not real sure what would cause the zero pressure, unless it is a broken gear or a stuck bypass valve.

I use boundary billet pumps in everything, even the coyotes I build. They are just about bulletproof. I had a piece of copper wire go through my last boundary oil pump (don’t know how it got there), the gears were chewed to high heaven but the pump still made perfect pressure. I only knew it was damaged because I was putting forged pistons in and pulled the pump apart to clean it.
 

ryanmc92000

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I was going with the melling and use billet gear, but Dino suggested the mmr hurricane which has the billet gears. And not that expensive. So im ordering that. Gonna take it off tomorrow and see. Looking at forums etc. It seems most likely the gears fractured or broke. So going with the hurricane pump, ford racing timing kit ( already ordered ) and steeda crank pulley for vibration dampr. Ill replace water pump too while its all apart.
 

lwarrior1016

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I was going with the melling and use billet gear, but Dino suggested the mmr hurricane which has the billet gears. And not that expensive. So im ordering that. Gonna take it off tomorrow and see. Looking at forums etc. It seems most likely the gears fractured or broke. So going with the hurricane pump, ford racing timing kit ( already ordered ) and steeda crank pulley for vibration dampr. Ill replace water pump too while its all apart.
Good luck with the mmr pump. I’ve had very good luck with a lot of their parts, but oil pumps are not one of them. The last mmr pump I tried to use had a .030” gap between the rotors. I could literally run my finger nail between the gears. Boundary gears, from what I have personally experienced, have much tighter tolerances.
 

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