Oil Temps

[GT E UPP]

Under what conditions? Also, the 4.6 Modular is different enough from the 5.0 Coyote that I would say it's not a direct comparison.

Normal oil temp 210-220 highway driving, Royal purple 5w-20 full synthetic, 80-85 outside temp, 7 qt pan, and it's not a Coyote.
Brenspeed built Stroker Boss 5.0 iron block with Ford Racing 3v Heads, etc. etc.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I was at the track the other day and the guy next to us in the pits was running a BOSS 302LS. Had ALL the Multimatic stuff from the BOSS 302R/S on it. So nice, so jelly.

He was running the HUGE Setrab oil cooler, the same ones the race cars run and he was having high oil temp issues (he has them a lot). He wasn't really sure how to solve it aside from adding one of the 11qt racae oil pans. Seems the Yotues like to heat up the oil.

And I trust his results. This guy really had his program together. He was very scientific and methodical about his car setup and problem solving. He even had the big daddy AIM dash/data acquisition system for collecting data.

 

[Sky Render]

^^^
What oil temps was he seeing that he considered high?

Because if normal highway driving yields 230-240 on the oil temps, I'm starting to wonder if the Coyote was designed to run higher temps on the oil.

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[2013DIBGT]

I've read several threads over at Bossmustangsonline about oil temps and oil cooling and from what I gathered from those threads is that 240 deg is a perfectly normal range to be at. Some guys over there we're seeing 280-300 under race conditions and then after the addition of an aftermarket cooler (some in addition to the factory boss cooler) were running in the 250-260 range and were perfectly happy at that range.

Spoiler alert...the factory grill is one of the main culprits to the high temps and by simply swapping it out for a High Flow Roush Billet Grille sometimes yielded even better results then the aftermarket cooler did.

Cooltech who makes an aftermarket cooler even verified this on another forum were they did a whole slew of testing with their cooler under track conditions in high temps while they were developing their product for the market. It was an interesting outcome to say the least. Even more impressive was their honesty telling the public that the use of a better flowing grille alone was probably a better solution.

Moral of the story is that I believe 240 is normal and not of concern.

 

[Department Of Boost]

^^^
What oil temps was he seeing that he considered high?

Because if normal highway driving yields 230-240 on the oil temps, I'm starting to wonder if the Coyote was designed to run higher temps on the oil.

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IDK. This guy had his stuff wired real tight though. His entire operation was top notch and he clearly knew a LOT about what he was doing. We talked suspension, tires, technique, etc and he is no layman. If he said it ran hot, I take his word for it.

I've read several threads over at Bossmustangsonline about oil temps and oil cooling and from what I gathered from those threads is that 240 deg is a perfectly normal range to be at. Some guys over there we're seeing 280-300 under race conditions and then after the addition of an aftermarket cooler (some in addition to the factory boss cooler) were running in the 250-260 range and were perfectly happy at that range.

Spoiler alert...the factory grill is one of the main culprits to the high temps and by simply swapping it out for a High Flow Roush Billet Grille sometimes yielded even better results then the aftermarket cooler did.

Cooltech who makes an aftermarket cooler even verified this on another forum were they did a whole slew of testing with their cooler under track conditions in high temps while they were developing their product for the market. It was an interesting outcome to say the least. Even more impressive was their honesty telling the public that the use of a better flowing grille alone was probably a better solution.

Moral of the story is that I believe 240 is normal and not of concern.

Very well could be true. But without venting the hood running an open grill is going to get you a fraction of the results that you would get if the hood was vented.

With anything cooling there is rarely a silver bullet solution. It usually takes every bite at the apple you can get. Biggest cooler, open grill, vented hood, etc.

 

[Pentalab]

I've read several threads over at Bossmustangsonline about oil temps and oil cooling and from what I gathered from those threads is that 240 deg is a perfectly normal range to be at. Some guys over there we're seeing 280-300 under race conditions and then after the addition of an aftermarket cooler (some in addition to the factory boss cooler) were running in the 250-260 range and were perfectly happy at that range.

Spoiler alert...the factory grill is one of the main culprits to the high temps and by simply swapping it out for a High Flow Roush Billet Grille sometimes yielded even better results then the aftermarket cooler did.

Cooltech who makes an aftermarket cooler even verified this on another forum were they did a whole slew of testing with their cooler under track conditions in high temps while they were developing their product for the market. It was an interesting outcome to say the least. Even more impressive was their honesty telling the public that the use of a better flowing grille alone was probably a better solution.

Moral of the story is that I believe 240 is normal and not of concern.

I have been telling folks this since day 1.... the upper grille on the 2010-2012 cars is junk, it impedes airflow, it's mostly blocked off. Even
the boss grille with the removable foglamp covers is not the answer either. On one of the other forums last year, the folks at the road course track were cooking the oil, with sky high eng oil temps, ditto with CHT, and eng coolant temps. They had already removed the foglamp covers. It was hot enough to put it into limp mode. In desperation they removed the entire oem upper grille assy entirely. Then things improved a bunch. Note the 13-14 GT-500 doesn't even have an upper grille, you can reach right in and touch the HE.

The oem upper grille also means the air has to do 2 x 90 deg bends to get into the oem CAI airbox..from upper grille...or 2 x 90 deg bends from the lower grille. By using a 7 bar grille, it's then ram air straight into the 'snorkel' that feeds the oem airbox on my 2010. I noticed the boost went up slightly when on the hwy. The HE on my 2010 Roush M90 is 18" tall x 21" wide...and gets hit with air from both upper + lower grille. Everything runs a helluva lot cooler after that 7 bar grille was installed. I also have 2 x auto tranny coolers, sandwiched between oem eng rad and oem AC rad. 6 x rads in all, ( HE + pwr steering make up the 5th + 6th). Then you have the IC, and an oil cooler would make for yet another rad. For optimum road race cooling under hot wx, a manual tranny cooler + a differential + eng oil cooler would be a good idea..which is what the track version of the GT-500's came with.

DOB is correct though, it would be further enhanced with even a small amount of hood venting. Hood vents would also relieve under hood air pressure buildup. I was worried about rain + water getting into eng bay with any hood venting, so did not install them. If you have a WL watts link, you can still install a differential cooler...via the drain + fill plugs on the wl differential cover.

7 bar billet aluminum grilles for 2010-2012 cars are available from Roush, AM, and also Mr Body kit. Roush uses 4 x mounting brackets. The Mr Body kit version uses 6 x mounting brackets..and is no where near the price of the Roush, they have had it on sale several times. The AM version I believe uses 4 x mounting brackets, works good but some folks have complained about the paint job. You end up losing your oem foglamps if the 7 bar grille is installed.... no big deal imo. I installed 8K hids, which are brighter than the oem headlamps + oem fogs combined. I also installed a pair of PIAA small rectangular halogen foglamps on the cdc lower grille, inboard of the brake cooling ducts...I seldom ever use em, they are not necessary.

I see no point in bigger eng rads, auto tranny rads, HE's, or oil cooler's...if you can't get air through them. IMO, you don't really require bigger rads in most cases...you need more air through the existing oem rads. It's bad enough stacking rads in front of each other as is.

 

[modernbeat]

...With anything cooling there is rarely a silver bullet solution. It usually takes every bite at the apple you can get. Biggest cooler, open grill, vented hood, etc.

...DOB is correct though, it would be further enhanced with even a small amount of hood venting. Hood vents would also relieve under hood air pressure buildup. I was worried about rain + water getting into eng bay with any hood venting, so did not install them...

These things I quoted are two of the things you should be doing. First, evacuate the air from behind the radiator. If you lower the car, add the trans cooling scoop, or use any front subframe bracing, you are causing some restriction to the heat flow under the car. If you can reroute the flow through the hood or fender, that will give you more than cooling gains. And if you reroute enough, you don't have to worry about your grill blocking off too much air. Remember the grille on Big Red? All the air came in the lower grill. The upper grill was completely blocked off for aero reasons. Adding a deep front spoiler or splitter can help the cooling by preventing air from going under the car.

Secondary, get a better heat exchanger and divorce the heat exchangers. Move to a better radiator, appropiate oil cooler, and if you are boosted, the biggest intercooler you can fit.

Third, stop shifting at 7500. If you have to, change your rear gear to 3.55 or 3.31 and shift at a more reasonable 6500-6800 on track. The extra RPMs cause a LOT of heat and oil issues. The few BOSS customers I've been able to switch over to this plan have dropped their oil temps AND their track times.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Third, stop shifting at 7500.

I love this advice. I've run into more people at the track zinging the crap out of their motors for counter productive reasons than I can count.

 

[Sky Render]

Good advice, but I'm still wondering what temperature is the "STOP DRIVING NOW" point.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Good advice, but I'm still wondering what temperature is the "STOP DRIVING NOW" point.

I think the NASCAR guys run theirs up to 280 and then they have a "problem".

I myself would be looking to get things cooled down at about 260. And you don't want to stop driving, you want to cool it down.

 

[Sky Render]

Now that sounds like some good advice. I've only hit 250 once. If it happens again, I might look into that Mishimoto direct-fit oil cooler.

 

[SwissBoss]

From the Boss 302S manual :

The Oil pressure should not drop below 30 PSI during normal operating conditions (except hot idle). Oil Temperature should not exceed 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

https://fordperformanceracingparts.com/Download/BOSS302SPDFs/Boss 302S owners manual version AV4.pdf

 

[Sky Render]

Well, that's a great link! Thanks!

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[Department Of Boost]

From the Boss 302S manual :

The Oil pressure should not drop below 30 PSI during normal operating conditions (except hot idle). Oil Temperature should not exceed 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

https://fordperformanceracingparts.com/Download/BOSS302SPDFs/Boss 302S owners manual version AV4.pdf

I don't care what Ford says, 30psi and 7,000rpm don't mix.