Planned modlist for '13 GT, please advise.

Hans_Gruber

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Hey all!

New to the forum, this being my first post (done reading a lot, though...)

In short: for my upcoming '13 GT premium 6MT, I have a goal for the car to be a superbly-handling-but-somewhat-civilised-DD. It will see the track sometimes, mostly road/tack racing. No serious competition, no drag racing.

I have read the forums for months and have a planned modlist, which should cover more or less everything. I'd be very grateful for some opinions or suggestions! (note: will call sam strano at some point, but don't want to use up his time before everything is ready).

Only experience driving a mustang for me is a '10 V6 convertible auto, and that was terrible in terms of power / confidence. Rented it for a day, so no hard driving.

Deep breath...

Base car: '13 GT premium 6MT, leather recaros, electronic pack, glass roof, 3.73 gears. NO track pack or brembos

Tires: Michelin pilot super sports OR Nitto Invo's (cheaper), 275/40R18 all around, forgestar cf5's 18x9

Steeda sports
Koni yellows
MM CC plates
Fays2 watts link
Strano adj. sway bars & endlinks (considering strano/umi or steeda street endlinks)
Rear LCA's (steeda billet) with relo brackets
adj. UCA & mount (steeda comp/street)
FCAs: BMR or stock with steeda x11 balljoints coupled with steeda bushings
CHE k-member support with torque limiters (should improve shifting, a bit worried on the alum. block handling it as well as possible nvh)
Steeda (red) adj.motor mounts
Steeda bumpsteer kit
BMR or stifflers subframe connectors (again, heard good things from users, others saying they are unnecessary)
SR strut tower brace (it won't hurt, even though effect is likely to be minimal)


For the driveline:

MGW shifter with TWM shifter extender
Clutch pedal extension (heard good things about it, and its cheap even if I dont need it)
DSS driveshaft & che loop
JHR clutch line
Detroit truetrac & steeda finned diff cover w/fill&drain plugs
Clutch: stock
Flywheel: stock
Trans: stock MT82 with some RP trans fluid (T56 would be great, but too expensive)

Brakes:

Front: Wilwood 14" slotted, 6 piston calipers, street (Q) pads (slight overkill, but lighter and more powerful than brembos, hate to hear randy pabst's comments on the stock brembos not being good enough)
Rear: hawk ceramic pads
Brake cooling kit, kenny brown (possible fitment issue with the bumper)
Brake fluid (brembo lcf-600)
Goodridge SS lines

Power/exhaust:

Steeda CAI & bama tune (wont' be adding SC or anything, there should be enough power)
GT500 axlebacks
Boss side exhaust with electric cutouts (issue with SFCs; they must be modified a little)
Boss oil cooler
CSF all alum. radiator

Other:

Sound deadening, sound deadener showdown (hope to counter the nvh created by mods, as well as reduce tire roar)
CG lock lap belt
Braille battery (save 10lbs)
Remove spare tire (save 40lbs)
JLT pass. side oil separator
Shorty antenna
Hood struts
SHR fuel door
Polk audio speakers
Royal purple fluids all around (except diff, that need mineral oil)

I know, it's a long list and possibly not everything will be implemented.
 

Hans_Gruber

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Considered the Boss, but there's a few things which are better in this modified GT -setup:

1. Better parts. E.g. koni yellows, CC plates, fays2 watts link... almost everything is better-performing than stock Boss gear. Except for the engine, of course... (even though cai+tune should be pretty close to boss hp)

2. Price. One can get a well-specced GT for much less than a Boss, possibly even below-MSRP. Even fully modified, the final cost is similar or below.

3. The fun of spending afternoons in the garage / driveway, building your very own car

4. Possibility of being happy with just doing the list partly.

Of course, the Boss has a cool factor, and a better resale value. But hey, who buys a Mustang thinking primarily of resale? :D

Oh and sorry if this is in the wrong section, but didn't see anything more fitting. Corner-carving? Chit-chat?


Would be very grateful and interested in hearing comments on the specific parts of the build!
 

stkjock

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chit-chat...

moved


good luck with the build... yippie-kai-yay Mother Fucker
 

Hans_Gruber

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the bug hasn't hit him yet...it will

I'm very afraid of that...:p

I'm thinking the 5.0 should have enough power & torque to satisfy my needs, and don't want to risk the durability of the engine if it was supercharged. Also the cost is quite immense, since the transmission would probably have to be replaced by a T56, as well as clutch & flywheel along with it. For starters...
 

ksack

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if you get a centri and keep the boost low that coyote will hold up no sweat!
 

DDTCM

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The coyote will be safe enough at 550 or even 600 and that will be enough to cause you to get your seats recovered.
 

Hans_Gruber

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Haha, you guys seem pretty certain I'm going to supercharge it! Well, you never know...might want more power someday. But right now, the suspension & other stuff is taking enough funds. Haven't even researched SC's yet.

Right now, I should figure out all the other stuff: BMR fca's or steeda x11's, subframe connectors or not, which front swaybar endlinks (strano or steeda), which tires (nittos or michelins), final brake setup, should i order the car with track pack or add the components myself...for these, I'd need help and opinions.
 

Powered by Ford

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You should talk to Filip from Cortex Racing too. I have his watts link and I would take over the Fays2 for a number of reasons (not to say that the Fays2 is bad, but when it was the only watts link out there it definitely had the market cornered).
 

Fantas

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Haha, you guys seem pretty certain I'm going to supercharge it!

It is because you aren't the first and you won't be the last. They are just basing everything off historical data.

.... Like me, now I have a Comp Turbo strapped to the front of a built motor. Good luck on the build.
 

Hans_Gruber

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You should talk to Filip from Cortex Racing too. I have his watts link and I would take over the Fays2 for a number of reasons (not to say that the Fays2 is bad, but when it was the only watts link out there it definitely had the market cornered).

Good point. I've only looked at Fays2 and Steeda watts linkages, but that one seems like a quality piece too. Bit more expensive but not by a huge margin..and a different type of design.

I originally stayed clear of griggs & cortex due to the car being street driven mostly, and I wanted to keep NVH down. How's your experience with cortex in that regard? What other reasons made you choose it over fays2? How's clearance? Compatibility with rear sway bars (plan on getting them from Sam)?

Thanks!
 
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