Project Break a Boss
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ford20
forum member
I received in my -12AN PCV fitting from JPC Racing as well. They are a very high quality little piece IMO.
The reason why I got these was because Darren who has a 318ci N/A road race car was having excessive blow by issues. A few suggestions thrown his way was to run a vacuum pump or to go with larger AN hoses from the valvetrain to the catch can to try and prevent it from choking the motor by not dispensing the blow by fast enough. Another person chimed in saying that they have run -12 lines to the Peterson Catch can without issues.
This just seemed like the easier thing to do than to try and setup a vacuum pump that was capable of handling road course duty without if failing. The less moving parts the better. Who knows whether my car would run into the issues that Darren's car was having in terms of blow by, but if I could stop an issue before it presented itself then I figured I would go ahead and jump on it. In doing so I removed the -10 AN lines from my Peterson Breather Can and got to work assembling some -12AN hoses.
I ended up getting the Aeroquip Startlite Hose for this application as it is 45% lighter than their Stainless Steel hoses. Granted the weight difference is extremely nominal, .16lb-ft for the startlight compared to .29 lb-ft. for the stainless steel but racecar & Matt D style weight savings, so I went with the Startlight.
I went ahead and put them in and started working on cutting the AN hoses to length.
I grabbed my Earls Hose cutter that I bought and began measuring the hoses to cut to length. For this I used Aeroquip's assembly instructions except that I used Mineral Oil instead of their assmebly lube as that is what I have seen most people use while assembling the hoses.
After I cut my hoses I went ahead and grabbed my AN fittings that I bought from Phenix Industries. These are made out of 6061 Aluminum. Their elbows are made of one solid piece of billet aluminum and they appear to be quality pieces and they are Made in the USA.
I then grabbed my Koul Tool and pressed the hose into the fitting. This part was so simple and if you plan on assembling a bunch of hoses, I would say this is a nice tool to have. You just put the fitting into the tool and you just push the hose in the other end and boom, all nice and seated. I then put a piece of scotch tape on the end of the hose right up against the fitting so that I can tell if the hose had pushed out during assembly.
I then put the other half of the fitting into the aluminum vice insert as such, and placed some mineral oil on the fitting and pressed it in, then spun it onto the threads.
You want to try and put some pressure on the hose as you are screwing the fittings together. When you are putting them together I have been told that you want to leave a very small gap between the fittings, something like the thickness of your fingernail is a good gauge to go by. As you can see the hose did push out a little bit so I twisted and pushed the hose at the same time and got it seated back all the way into the end of the fitting.
I then went out and grabbed my Peterson Breather Tank and wanted to give it some TLC. As you can see, it looks like it has seen some better days so I just wanted to clean it up a little bit to make it look a bit nicer.
I grabbed a rag and this stuff I picked up at Carlisle called Chrome it and started working on the Breather Tank. I think it came out decent, nothing spectacular although I think it looks a lot better then it did before I started out on it. I grabbed my hoses and some Teflon Tape and ran the Teflon Tape on the -12AN bungs that go into the Peterson Breather Tank and tightened everything up.
This is how it looks all assembled on Kelly from BMR's car, very nice
. I hope he doesn't mind me whoring out his picture a little bit.
The reason why I got these was because Darren who has a 318ci N/A road race car was having excessive blow by issues. A few suggestions thrown his way was to run a vacuum pump or to go with larger AN hoses from the valvetrain to the catch can to try and prevent it from choking the motor by not dispensing the blow by fast enough. Another person chimed in saying that they have run -12 lines to the Peterson Catch can without issues.
This just seemed like the easier thing to do than to try and setup a vacuum pump that was capable of handling road course duty without if failing. The less moving parts the better. Who knows whether my car would run into the issues that Darren's car was having in terms of blow by, but if I could stop an issue before it presented itself then I figured I would go ahead and jump on it. In doing so I removed the -10 AN lines from my Peterson Breather Can and got to work assembling some -12AN hoses.
I ended up getting the Aeroquip Startlite Hose for this application as it is 45% lighter than their Stainless Steel hoses. Granted the weight difference is extremely nominal, .16lb-ft for the startlight compared to .29 lb-ft. for the stainless steel but racecar & Matt D style weight savings, so I went with the Startlight.
I went ahead and put them in and started working on cutting the AN hoses to length.
I grabbed my Earls Hose cutter that I bought and began measuring the hoses to cut to length. For this I used Aeroquip's assembly instructions except that I used Mineral Oil instead of their assmebly lube as that is what I have seen most people use while assembling the hoses.
After I cut my hoses I went ahead and grabbed my AN fittings that I bought from Phenix Industries. These are made out of 6061 Aluminum. Their elbows are made of one solid piece of billet aluminum and they appear to be quality pieces and they are Made in the USA.
I then grabbed my Koul Tool and pressed the hose into the fitting. This part was so simple and if you plan on assembling a bunch of hoses, I would say this is a nice tool to have. You just put the fitting into the tool and you just push the hose in the other end and boom, all nice and seated. I then put a piece of scotch tape on the end of the hose right up against the fitting so that I can tell if the hose had pushed out during assembly.
I then put the other half of the fitting into the aluminum vice insert as such, and placed some mineral oil on the fitting and pressed it in, then spun it onto the threads.
You want to try and put some pressure on the hose as you are screwing the fittings together. When you are putting them together I have been told that you want to leave a very small gap between the fittings, something like the thickness of your fingernail is a good gauge to go by. As you can see the hose did push out a little bit so I twisted and pushed the hose at the same time and got it seated back all the way into the end of the fitting.
I then went out and grabbed my Peterson Breather Tank and wanted to give it some TLC. As you can see, it looks like it has seen some better days so I just wanted to clean it up a little bit to make it look a bit nicer.
I grabbed a rag and this stuff I picked up at Carlisle called Chrome it and started working on the Breather Tank. I think it came out decent, nothing spectacular although I think it looks a lot better then it did before I started out on it. I grabbed my hoses and some Teflon Tape and ran the Teflon Tape on the -12AN bungs that go into the Peterson Breather Tank and tightened everything up.
This is how it looks all assembled on Kelly from BMR's car, very nice
. I hope he doesn't mind me whoring out his picture a little bit.
ford20
forum member
So you show us a picture of the headers wrapped in a bag? WTF?
Half my Family is Italian, no one had even sat on my Great Grandmothers couch since she bought it in like 1952. Plastic stays on everything. It's a Ginny thing.
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
Is it done yet?
ford20
forum member
Is it ever really done?
No, and i feel your pain.
Amen.
Last week we had a blizzard day so I was stuck at home. I read your entire post from start to present. Phew! Gorgeous car! Gotta be killing you not being able to drive it! Just the snow months around here puts me into advanced stages of withdrawal.
ford20
forum member
The snow was the only good thing about this! It gave me a good reason not to try and do things. Now that it has been in the 50's 3 days out of the last 7 I would say, it has been killing me!!
If your wallet isn't smoking, you're not trying hard enough! 
ford20
forum member
Well that and money. I got pretty sick recently and without insurance it really ate my engine rebuild fund.
ford20
forum member
Since my car has been sitting for so long I definitely needed a new battery and I wanted to go ahead and go with something a little bit lighter than stock. JPC Racing built this really cool looking and functional battery tray and breather combo right here and used a Braille B2015 battery.
Considering I already have my Peterson Breather Can, I couldn’t justify spending all of the money on the new setup right away. I might go ahead and grab it in the future, but as of now I couldn’t do it. So I went out and bought the same Braille B2015 battery which should be perfect for what I will use it for. It is very small and compact and only weighs 15 lbs. which will save me about 16lbs. off the front end and have enough CCA to get the car up and running without issue. The problem is that the battery is MUCH smaller than the factory battery so I would have to fabricate a way to keep it in place. Since weight savings is life bc racecar I decided to make it out of Carbon fiber. So I went out and bought a 12” x 24” sheet of Carbon fiber and some carbon fiber 1” angle to make and reinforce the battery box with. After taking my measurements I went ahead and fabricated the box. Here it is with the front and back all mocked up followed by the sides.
In order to cut the carbon fiber I used a hacksaw and a tungsten carbide blade as it will not cause the carbon fiber to chip or splinter as you cut it like it would with a wood cutting or metal cutting blade. You should also wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt when cutting carbon fiber as in my research, it is very much like fiberglass as the particles can get stuck in your pores and cause all sorts of itching everywhere and it is a worse sensation than fiberglass is. Also, some sort of mask would be advisable as well as safety goggles just in case. I’m still sneezing Carbon Fiber dust out of my nose 4 days later so it would be a nice thing to have thought about at the moment.
From there I cut the bottom of the carbon fiber piece to fit in the battery tray to give it a sort of finished look to it. After a lot of sanding I got it to sit nice and flat in the tray
I still have to cut the bottom try so that I can put the bolts in and take them out with ease as well as cut the insert for the nylon strap to go through since I am changing the way it mounts. I am thinking of mounting it to the battery tray down here with 2 rivets in the same way that the factory strap is mounted assuming I can fit a rivet gun in that space so that the rivet is mounted directly to the strap the way it is from the factory.
I ended up buying these rivets from McMaster-Carr and looking at the material thickness range I think I will be in good hands considering the plastic at that spot I believe is .118” judging by the plastic closest to it where I could take a measurement and the nylon strap is .074-.080” so with any luck this will work. This rivet appears to be almost the same rivet used ts the factory except that the factory one has a large washer for lack of a better term built into the back of the rivet where this one doesn’t.
Anyway, I got the box all mocked up and grabbed my 3M 110 Epoxy and started epoxying the Carbon Fiber angle onto the sheets of Carbon Fiber. I opened up the box a little bit more to allow the battery to be put in easier so there is a little bit of a gap where you can see the carbon fiber angle, but nothing too bad. Here is where I ran in to a bit of an error as per the norm with me. When I got my epoxy, they sent me a mixing nozzle for a 200ml tube which has a large round ended hole when I actually got a 50 ML tube which has a rectangular attachment that fits into a slot. So I ended up modifying it and it sort of worked. The epoxy barely made it through the tube before leaking out on me so I aborted that idea and cleaned everything off. So I went to the Home Depot and grabbed some Loctitie Epoxy which has a mixing nozzle in it that is a similar mounting design, only problem is that it was too small :/. So I finally got the correct ones from the vendor yesterday and went ahead and started epoxying all of the pieces together. Today I will go ahead and finish the supports for the bottom so that I can mount it to the bottom tray once I cut all my holes and put the strap into the battery tray etc.
Considering I already have my Peterson Breather Can, I couldn’t justify spending all of the money on the new setup right away. I might go ahead and grab it in the future, but as of now I couldn’t do it. So I went out and bought the same Braille B2015 battery which should be perfect for what I will use it for. It is very small and compact and only weighs 15 lbs. which will save me about 16lbs. off the front end and have enough CCA to get the car up and running without issue. The problem is that the battery is MUCH smaller than the factory battery so I would have to fabricate a way to keep it in place. Since weight savings is life bc racecar I decided to make it out of Carbon fiber. So I went out and bought a 12” x 24” sheet of Carbon fiber and some carbon fiber 1” angle to make and reinforce the battery box with. After taking my measurements I went ahead and fabricated the box. Here it is with the front and back all mocked up followed by the sides.
In order to cut the carbon fiber I used a hacksaw and a tungsten carbide blade as it will not cause the carbon fiber to chip or splinter as you cut it like it would with a wood cutting or metal cutting blade. You should also wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt when cutting carbon fiber as in my research, it is very much like fiberglass as the particles can get stuck in your pores and cause all sorts of itching everywhere and it is a worse sensation than fiberglass is. Also, some sort of mask would be advisable as well as safety goggles just in case. I’m still sneezing Carbon Fiber dust out of my nose 4 days later so it would be a nice thing to have thought about at the moment.
From there I cut the bottom of the carbon fiber piece to fit in the battery tray to give it a sort of finished look to it. After a lot of sanding I got it to sit nice and flat in the tray
I still have to cut the bottom try so that I can put the bolts in and take them out with ease as well as cut the insert for the nylon strap to go through since I am changing the way it mounts. I am thinking of mounting it to the battery tray down here with 2 rivets in the same way that the factory strap is mounted assuming I can fit a rivet gun in that space so that the rivet is mounted directly to the strap the way it is from the factory.
I ended up buying these rivets from McMaster-Carr and looking at the material thickness range I think I will be in good hands considering the plastic at that spot I believe is .118” judging by the plastic closest to it where I could take a measurement and the nylon strap is .074-.080” so with any luck this will work. This rivet appears to be almost the same rivet used ts the factory except that the factory one has a large washer for lack of a better term built into the back of the rivet where this one doesn’t.
Anyway, I got the box all mocked up and grabbed my 3M 110 Epoxy and started epoxying the Carbon Fiber angle onto the sheets of Carbon Fiber. I opened up the box a little bit more to allow the battery to be put in easier so there is a little bit of a gap where you can see the carbon fiber angle, but nothing too bad. Here is where I ran in to a bit of an error as per the norm with me. When I got my epoxy, they sent me a mixing nozzle for a 200ml tube which has a large round ended hole when I actually got a 50 ML tube which has a rectangular attachment that fits into a slot. So I ended up modifying it and it sort of worked. The epoxy barely made it through the tube before leaking out on me so I aborted that idea and cleaned everything off. So I went to the Home Depot and grabbed some Loctitie Epoxy which has a mixing nozzle in it that is a similar mounting design, only problem is that it was too small :/. So I finally got the correct ones from the vendor yesterday and went ahead and started epoxying all of the pieces together. Today I will go ahead and finish the supports for the bottom so that I can mount it to the bottom tray once I cut all my holes and put the strap into the battery tray etc.
ford20
forum member
In other news, if you remember I had the rusting issue with some of the items on the inside of the engine, so I went ahead and sprayed them down with some WD-40 and used a brass wire brush to remove the layer of surface rust that I had on those parts and so that I didn’t do any to damage any of the aluminum parts on the engine or the engine itself.
Sorry no after pics haha.
Everything came out looking perfect so I went ahead and grabbed my front cover and VCT actuators and installed those. It was a very easy process although I couldn’t find any torque specs on them so I used the German Specs for the Actuators.
These are the actuators that you have to use with the wiring harness that I got from Ford Racing. They were from cars built after 2/27/12 so they looked different than what I had previously in my engine since it was built on 12/30/2010.
So once I got those bolted in I went ahead and grabbed my gaskets for the front cover and put them on as such:
Then I went ahead and put the engine mount brackets on the engine as such since you have to use a combination of studs and bolts. I will get the part numbers for the studs and for the bolts when I can get my notebook back since I sent it down there with the engine so they can use that for reference. I think the front cover & the engine mount brackets are two of maybe 15 items that aren’t brand spanking new for this engine. That is one reason why this has been taking so long to get done. Damn near every nut, bolt and whatever else has been bought from Ford or JPC so that added to the expense for sure.
Here it is in all its glory! I wish I took a picture of the front cover with all the bolts in the correct place as it took me a while to figure out where they all went from a variety of pictures, but these are just the 8 10mm bolts that are installed along with the 2 studs IIRC.
From there I put the engine on the pallet and screwed it into the wood than strapped it to the pallet and sent it down on one of our trucks that was heading down to DC. You could throw this thing off an airplane and the motor wouldn’t budge haha.
So the motor got to JPC and they got to work on it. The intake cam was degreed correctly and the exhaust cam was off by a few degrees if I am remembering correctly. They said that the motor rotated freely and they had no issues so I have no idea what the heck the case was. I swear to God this thing stopped rotating on me. The good news though was that it rotated freely without issue. I just spoke with Eric and the motor is now done so I will have to figure out how to get my car down there. I tried renting a trailer from UHaul and they said my truck wasn’t good enough to tow my car so I will have to find another trailer to tow it down there soon.
Sorry no after pics haha.
Everything came out looking perfect so I went ahead and grabbed my front cover and VCT actuators and installed those. It was a very easy process although I couldn’t find any torque specs on them so I used the German Specs for the Actuators.
These are the actuators that you have to use with the wiring harness that I got from Ford Racing. They were from cars built after 2/27/12 so they looked different than what I had previously in my engine since it was built on 12/30/2010.
So once I got those bolted in I went ahead and grabbed my gaskets for the front cover and put them on as such:
Then I went ahead and put the engine mount brackets on the engine as such since you have to use a combination of studs and bolts. I will get the part numbers for the studs and for the bolts when I can get my notebook back since I sent it down there with the engine so they can use that for reference. I think the front cover & the engine mount brackets are two of maybe 15 items that aren’t brand spanking new for this engine. That is one reason why this has been taking so long to get done. Damn near every nut, bolt and whatever else has been bought from Ford or JPC so that added to the expense for sure.
Here it is in all its glory! I wish I took a picture of the front cover with all the bolts in the correct place as it took me a while to figure out where they all went from a variety of pictures, but these are just the 8 10mm bolts that are installed along with the 2 studs IIRC.
From there I put the engine on the pallet and screwed it into the wood than strapped it to the pallet and sent it down on one of our trucks that was heading down to DC. You could throw this thing off an airplane and the motor wouldn’t budge haha.
So the motor got to JPC and they got to work on it. The intake cam was degreed correctly and the exhaust cam was off by a few degrees if I am remembering correctly. They said that the motor rotated freely and they had no issues so I have no idea what the heck the case was. I swear to God this thing stopped rotating on me. The good news though was that it rotated freely without issue. I just spoke with Eric and the motor is now done so I will have to figure out how to get my car down there. I tried renting a trailer from UHaul and they said my truck wasn’t good enough to tow my car so I will have to find another trailer to tow it down there soon.
Last edited:
swflastang05
Back for More
Nice work with the CF, and congrats on your engine getting done!
ford20
forum member
Thanks, I'm happy with how the battery box has been progressing so far. I'm super stoked about the engine, now to get the damn car down to MD haha.
ford20
forum member
So I would like to make some custom coil covers for my car and this is one of the designs that I liked. I am probably going to have the Boss 302 slant whatever way the lettering on the fenders is. So the drivers side would look like this:
The Passenger side would look like this:
Since I will also be removing the Boss intake manifold and the Boss 302 plaque that comes on it I was thinking of maybe doing something with the vehicle number on it since you always get asked that question from Boss owners. I will have to come up with a design tomorrow.
What say you folks?
The Passenger side would look like this:
Since I will also be removing the Boss intake manifold and the Boss 302 plaque that comes on it I was thinking of maybe doing something with the vehicle number on it since you always get asked that question from Boss owners. I will have to come up with a design tomorrow.
What say you folks?
I like it.
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