Pros and cons different centri brands

mynameismike65

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Also, as far as fuel goes, GT500 pump and 39lb injectors for mid 400's? I know I can do the Boost a pump, but I hear the GT500 is "safer" and better for future power increases.
 

fdjizm

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From a few sources, I've found that you are OK with a BAP under 450whp.
 

Jeffs FRC

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Also, as far as fuel goes, GT500 pump and 39lb injectors for mid 400's? I know I can do the Boost a pump, but I hear the GT500 is "safer" and better for future power increases.
I would go with 60 lb'ers and a gt500 fuel system from the get go. I run 60's, but went cheap and just run a BAP. I will be building a motor in the future so I should have just started with the gt500 pumps...

As far as what each head unit will flow here are a few numbers. A Vortech V3 is the same as a Paxton Novi 1200.
Procharger:
P1 - 1200 CFM
D1 - 1400 CFM
F1A - 1650 CFM

Paxton:
Novi 1200 - 1000 CFM
Novi 1500 - 1200 CFM
Novi 2000 - 1400 CFM
Novi 2200 - 1450 CFM

Both kits will get you all the power you want and more. You have to ask yourself what your future goals might also be. Its better to start off with a bigger head unit if you MIGHT build a motor.

IMO, the Paxton 2200HO is the best kit for the money. I converted mine to a blow through setup like the Procharger for about $325. I've seen a few guys in here mention they dont prefer the belt system the Paxton/Vortech uses, but can ANYONE find me someone that has broken a belt on a Paxton/Vortech setup? Ive simply never seen it... It
also seems the Paxton kits can run big boost on the stock 6 rib and have no belt slip. Im pretty sure there are a few guys on this site running a 10% OD crank pulley and a 2.87" blower pulley with the stock 6 rib stuff. Also, the intercooler that comes with the Paxton is a monster. It barely fits...

Here is a pic of my blow through enhanced Paxton kit.
DSCN0035.jpg
 

fdjizm

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I like how you set yours up! that's much better looking than how it came!
 

Bullitt3478

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I have gt500 pumps and 39lb injectors.My car made 510 on the first tune.Settled it down to 466 and its good on 39's.If I hadnt gotten 39's with my kit I would have upgraded to 60's as Jeff reccomended.And hes right,all these blowers will make enough power to nuke a stock block,It really comes down to personnal preference.And yes the BOV vents to atmosphere,the paxtons and vortechs are all recirculated through bypass valves unless you do a blow through setup like Jeff did.I will tell you the prochargers are loud the others are quieter.Mine sounds like a damn hurricane force wind coming down the road until the rpm's get up and your in boost.Gets all kinds of attention.No hiding a procharger with the red race BOV thats for sure.heres a link to my D1 on the dyno,all the wind sound is coming from the BOV ,when the fender flap drops,thats when the boost kicks in on the pull then you can see it blow back up when he lets off of it.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbLdvs2K0gA
 

MassMustang

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I would go with 60 lb'ers and a gt500 fuel system from the get go. I run 60's, but went cheap and just run a BAP. I will be building a motor in the future so I should have just started with the gt500 pumps...

As far as what each head unit will flow here are a few numbers. A Vortech V3 is the same as a Paxton Novi 1200.
Procharger:
P1 - 1200 CFM
D1 - 1400 CFM
F1A - 1650 CFM

Paxton:
Novi 1200 - 1000 CFM
Novi 1500 - 1200 CFM
Novi 2000 - 1400 CFM
Novi 2200 - 1450 CFM

Both kits will get you all the power you want and more. You have to ask yourself what your future goals might also be. Its better to start off with a bigger head unit if you MIGHT build a motor.

IMO, the Paxton 2200HO is the best kit for the money. I converted mine to a blow through setup like the Procharger for about $325. I've seen a few guys in here mention they dont prefer the belt system the Paxton/Vortech uses, but can ANYONE find me someone that has broken a belt on a Paxton/Vortech setup? Ive simply never seen it... It
also seems the Paxton kits can run big boost on the stock 6 rib and have no belt slip. Im pretty sure there are a few guys on this site running a 10% OD crank pulley and a 2.87" blower pulley with the stock 6 rib stuff. Also, the intercooler that comes with the Paxton is a monster. It barely fits...

Here is a pic of my blow through enhanced Paxton kit.
DSCN0035.jpg

Resurrecting an older thread but as I'm saving up for a Paxton tuner kit, I'm on the fence between the 1200SL and buying an intercooler later, or waiting longer to save cash and buy the 2200SL with intercooler for an extra $1,400.

Thoughts? My goals are only 525-550hp at the crank. I have a Predator tuner, plan on 47# injectors and a fuel pump upgrade from JeremyH.
 

NoviBlownGT

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I ran 492rwhp on my novi2200sl for a while. Stock fuel pump with a BAP and 39lb injectors. Never had any issues. Setup went 11.2's. Id save up and go with the 2200SL. Youll love the kit and the performance.
 

MassMustang

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I ran 492rwhp on my novi2200sl for a while. Stock fuel pump with a BAP and 39lb injectors. Never had any issues. Setup went 11.2's. Id save up and go with the 2200SL. Youll love the kit and the performance.

I agree, it's just another $1,400 out of my reach. Must... resist... spending... money... now!!!

I do have a 302 stroker kit on my wish list though. So I know if I plan on building my 3V, the 2200SL makes more sense.
 

BruceH

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The Procharger is a better system. I've had both. The Procharger is already set up as blow through, the parts are a better made, and the impeller is machined from a billet vs a cast piece with the Paxton. This is important for spinning the blower to higher rpms. Higher rpms allow you to use a smaller pulley from the start in order to build boost sooner. You can build boost sooner and use a wastegate to control the final amount. This gives you more power sooner. You are limited with a cast impeller wheel because it will explode if spun too fast.

The Paxton is still a good setup. I converted mine to blow though and it did everything it should of. The Procharger doesn't require any conversions because it's set up correctly from the factory.

To get close to an apples to apples comparison a Procharger D1 setup would need to be compared to a Paxton/Vortech with the billet wheel supercharger which I believe is the YSI. You would still need to convert it to blow through and upgrade the bov.

Why is blow through better? First it allows for a much better maf signal. The suck through on a Vortech/Paxton will work but the backwash of air over the maf can make for some big fuel trim swings. In fact when my Paxton was suck through I turned off the adaptive correction for fuel trims because the wide swings were teaching the ecu crazy corrections. They try to limit the air backwash with the big 180 degree turn but it's not a good solution.

The biggest drawback for the Procharger is how much tension is required to get the belt to not slip. Even though it's a separate 8 rib drive it still needs a whole lot of tension to not slip. The Procharger air intake location looks like a Chinese copy of a Russian tractor but it works just fine. I always have monitored iats and I can tell you that they are lower with that intake location during normal driving than a na motor. The reason is because of the awesome air to air intercooler that all of the air passes through. As long as the car is moving the iats are pretty low. This is with iats being taken after the intercooler and prior to entering the motor. The na iats are taken right at the maf for this comparison.
 

MassMustang

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Anyone running a Novi 1200 with a 3rd party intercooler/heat exchanger like the AFCO? I know the 2200 pushes more CFM but I'd prefer an intercooler with fans (when sitting idle). It'd be ideal to buy the 2200 without an intercooler.
 

MassMustang

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The Procharger is a better system. I've had both. The Procharger is already set up as blow through, the parts are a better made, and the impeller is machined from a billet vs a cast piece with the Paxton. This is important for spinning the blower to higher rpms. Higher rpms allow you to use a smaller pulley from the start in order to build boost sooner. You can build boost sooner and use a wastegate to control the final amount. This gives you more power sooner. You are limited with a cast impeller wheel because it will explode if spun too fast.

The Paxton is still a good setup. I converted mine to blow though and it did everything it should of. The Procharger doesn't require any conversions because it's set up correctly from the factory.

To get close to an apples to apples comparison a Procharger D1 setup would need to be compared to a Paxton/Vortech with the billet wheel supercharger which I believe is the YSI. You would still need to convert it to blow through and upgrade the bov.

Why is blow through better? First it allows for a much better maf signal. The suck through on a Vortech/Paxton will work but the backwash of air over the maf can make for some big fuel trim swings. In fact when my Paxton was suck through I turned off the adaptive correction for fuel trims because the wide swings were teaching the ecu crazy corrections. They try to limit the air backwash with the big 180 degree turn but it's not a good solution.

The biggest drawback for the Procharger is how much tension is required to get the belt to not slip. Even though it's a separate 8 rib drive it still needs a whole lot of tension to not slip. The Procharger air intake location looks like a Chinese copy of a Russian tractor but it works just fine. I always have monitored iats and I can tell you that they are lower with that intake location during normal driving than a na motor. The reason is because of the awesome air to air intercooler that all of the air passes through. As long as the car is moving the iats are pretty low. This is with iats being taken after the intercooler and prior to entering the motor. The na iats are taken right at the maf for this comparison.

Thanks for all the advise, Bruce.
 

eighty6gt

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Bruce could write a pretty good ebook on the S197, sell it for $19/pop as a downloadable .pdf everyone would pirate. Maybe get sponsorship from MMR/beefcake racing if he plugged their parts?
 

BruceH

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Anyone running a Novi 1200 with a 3rd party intercooler/heat exchanger like the AFCO? I know the 2200 pushes more CFM but I'd prefer an intercooler with fans (when sitting idle). It'd be ideal to buy the 2200 without an intercooler.

My Paxton started life as a 1200. I added a cx racing intercooler kit that I had to do the fab work on.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70369&highlight=paxton+intercooler

Some more info on how it worked:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70369&highlight=paxton+intercooler

Here is the dyno pull with the air to air intercooler. The iat just didn't climb. Boost was pretty low at the time though. Pump gas and 11:1.



This is the same setup without an intercooler. Made more power with the same pulley but iats went up to about 150 at the end of the pull.

 

MassMustang

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My Paxton started life as a 1200. I added a cx racing intercooler kit that I had to do the fab work on.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70369&highlight=paxton+intercooler

Some more info on how it worked:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70369&highlight=paxton+intercooler

Here is the dyno pull with the air to air intercooler. The iat just didn't climb. Boost was pretty low at the time though. Pump gas and 11:1.



This is the same setup without an intercooler. Made more power with the same pulley but iats went up to about 150 at the end of the pull.


Nice info! Thanks! Interesting why the power dropped on the 2nd run, after the intercooler was installed. How did the ambient temp compare between the two days? Anything else that could be different?
 

BruceH

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Nice info! Thanks! Interesting why the power dropped on the 2nd run, after the intercooler was installed. How did the ambient temp compare between the two days? Anything else that could be different?

The intercooler is a boost restriction. That was all from the intercooler.
 

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