Push it to the limit!

jlg333

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So what's the most hp/tq you've pushed or still pushing on your mustangs stock block? How long did the motor last before it finally gave out?
 

msczesny1186

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I'm on 500rwhp/430rwtq. Still running like a champ but afraid to hit the track again now that my aftermarket clutch is in. Putting money away now as a just incase.
 

fdjizm

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Pro tip: Just because you make X amount of power on the dyno doesn't mean it will survive the track.

So the answer is... don't get greedy.
 

Silver Bullet

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ive had my novi 2200 for over 2 years, made 510 wheel on 93 octane, and 540 wheel on 110 octane on 12 psi, survived quite a few passes and street drive it everyday! all stock internals and clutch!
 

jlg333

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Pro tip: Just because you make X amount of power on the dyno doesn't mean it will survive the track.

So the answer is... don't get greedy.

I'd never go above 410, I'm too scared to blow my motor. I'm saving up for a built motor though! Just wanna see how ballsy people get around here lol
 

69Mach1-409

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I'm running a Whipple HO and was at 466whp / 445trq (dyno tuned). Ran her like that for 3'ish yrs and 19,000'ish miles with numerous passes down the 1/4.

I had JPC do another dyno tune when they did the T56 Magnum install last month. Currently at 487whp / 482trq with much better driveability then before and have 38,500'ish miles on the clock
 

W3bb3r04

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I currently have 102,000 miles on my stock motor. I have had the turbo on for 5k miles and it makes 492/499. Ive taken it to the track once on street tires but that's it. Running great still
 

19COBRA93

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Broke my first stock motor at 480rwh. Two rods through the side at the track, top of 2nd gear. I had been running that setup for two years without a problem.
 

46Tbird

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What is the most common failure on the 3V? I'm going to assume rods.
 

Riptide

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Rods

I think Marc had the record on whp and longevity here IIRC


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatwat
 

Renesis07

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So what's the most hp/tq you've pushed or still pushing on your mustangs stock block? How long did the motor last before it finally gave out?

Really glad you posted, I'm getting ready to install my Paxton kit and wondered the same thing. A lot of local guys here to Chicago are running 450-500whp and haven't had any problems, everyone calls me crazy for being so nervous to install this thing haha.

Like you, I want to get some more good use out of my stock block. I'm shooting to keep it around 400-425whp until I'm prepared to drop cash on a new block, then I'll pulley down. My car has been reliable as the sun bolt on though. Has 52,XXX miles and no issues whatsoever. Am I crazy for expecting another 20-30K miles with 400whp?

My car is my second car, so 20-30k miles is at least another 3-4 years for me.
 
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Swarzkopf

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I've trapped 120 in my full weight, Novi 1200 blown '05 3V and it held up. That's probably 480ish peak RWHP. I've turned it down a bit since, as it makes me nervous. I've made dozens of passes this year and a bunch of full throttle street runs and it's holding up; it's probably in the 450ish RWHP range right now.

I think it's hard to set a specific, general 'limit', as each approach to making power is different. In my opinion, you may get away with 500 RWHP from a centri blower easier then you would with a turbo or positive displacement blower setup as the power curve is less dramatic and the torque figures are lower.
 

retfr8flyr

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When you go FI it's a crap shoot on the stock shortblock. Some guys have run 550 with no problem and some guys have blown it up at less then 450. The rods are the weak point but the tune is usually at fault. The stock setup just can't take any detonation, the extra force caused by detonation will destroy the stock rods. Also all it takes is one weak rod and there goes you engine, even with a perfect tune. If you can't afford to replace it, then I recommend not going FI. It's just basic facts, if you go FI it can blow and if you can't afford for it to blow the don't do it.

I have a built motor and I have replaced it twice. Once due to the piece of shit that MMR built for me, it was built so badly that I had to pull it out. The second time I had a Comp Cams POS phaser limiter allow the phaser to come apart and this allowed the pass side cam to jump time. Lots of bent valves and dinged pistons on the pass side, along with a nice fire. I am running a conservative pump gas street tune, not an on the ragged edge race tune. It's just a fact of life, when you start pushing bigger HP out of these little motors anything can happen.


Earl
 

Wlkn Tal

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I'm was at 476 for a year till I added LT's now I'm at 485 and have been for almost another year. I don't go to the track much and it does worry me that the motor could go. I have considered forging, only time will tell.
 

jlg333

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When you go FI it's a crap shoot on the stock shortblock. Some guys have run 550 with no problem and some guys have blown it up at less then 450. The rods are the weak point but the tune is usually at fault. The stock setup just can't take any detonation, the extra force caused by detonation will destroy the stock rods. Also all it takes is one weak rod and there goes you engine, even with a perfect tune. If you can't afford to replace it, then I recommend not going FI. It's just basic facts, if you go FI it can blow and if you can't afford for it to blow the don't do it.

I have a built motor and I have replaced it twice. Once due to the piece of shit that MMR built for me, it was built so badly that I had to pull it out. The second time I had a Comp Cams POS phaser limiter allow the phaser to come apart and this allowed the pass side cam to jump time. Lots of bent valves and dinged pistons on the pass side, along with a nice fire. I am running a conservative pump gas street tune, not an on the ragged edge race tune. It's just a fact of life, when you start pushing bigger HP out of these little motors anything can happen.


Earl

This is my biggest fear when it comes to a motor. Id hate to spend so much money to only have it go to shit because it wasn't built right. I've read some not so good stuff on MMR.
 
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