Rear main seal installation tool.

[Robert302]

Is there a special tool needed to install the rear main seal? The reason I ask is because unlike other engines I’ve worked on there didn’t seem to be a spot where the seal would drive into and seat. I replaced the seal guessed on the depth, used a small socket to make sure it was the same depth all the way around and 6,000 miles later I have a leak. I just put a new clutch in and I really don’t want to soak it in oil, I also don’t want to be pulling the transmission out over and over again on my back. Any help would be helpful. I’m assuming there is some special tool that is needed to get the correct depth. I am debating on taking it to a shop but since I have a supercharger and aftermarket clutch I’m not sure they will want to put the clutch back. I also live in California so I will probably be charged double what the rest of you get charged. Any input would be helpful. I got the seal from NAPA and assumed it’s a quality seal. Most likely it wasn’t installed correctly, I’m assuming you need some sort of special tool that I don’t have or know where to get.

 

[skwerl]

Sorry, but most of NAPA's parts are cheap Chinese crap just like the other parts stores. For Ford gaskets, I stick with Ford/Motorcraft or Fel Pro. Fel Pro supplies lots of OEM gaskets to Ford. I also have listened to advice from my Ford mechanic, who has 35-40 years of experience working on fords. I believe him when he tells me something.

 

[msvela448]

+1... Use a genuine Motorcraft seal, and slinger (more below).

Yes... There is a tool by OTC and / or Rotunda. You can probably rent / borrow one from a local auto parts store. There is also a tool to set the slinger.. But I was able to use a ARP tapered piston ring compressor to gently set it and tap it in with a rubber mallet

Here's the OEM kit (Rotunda T95P-6701-AH -BH -CH -DH -EH) for the rear main seal and slinger... Removes and installs:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125056008608?hash=item1d1deb41a0:g:6jAAAOSwHSFhxMyE

Lastly, Don't forget the "slinger" that protects the seal surface too....most people leave it out or don't know what it's for. The slinger doesn't actually sling anything but it keeps dust and debris from reaching the seal itself. I've attached some diagrams below.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

 

[Robert302]

I’ve seen that tool but it typically only says it supports the 4.6 2 and 3 valve as well as the 5.4. I know the coyote has a different crank and rear main seal. I wasn’t sure if it would work on the coyote. Also my coyote didn’t have a slinger and I bought the car new in 2013 so I know it hasn’t been removed before.

 

[msvela448]

Didn't know you had a coyote engine... Everything I said above applies to the 4.6 and 5.4 2v and 3v and 4v... I don't know about the coyote.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

 

[TexasBlownV8]

I have the toos for a 4.6L engine; not sure it's the same special tools for a coyote. For both seal and slinger; I do 'rent them out'.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Did you remove the plate to install the new seal or do it with the plate attached to the engine? Did you lube the seal prior to install?

Tool part number is 303-1250 if you wanted to find one.

 

[toeout]

I have the toos for a 4.6L engine; not sure it's the same special tools for a coyote. For both seal and slinger; I do 'rent them out'.

I haven't figured out how to message you directly, but is there any chance that you are still renting out the installation tools for the rear main seal and the oil slinger for the 4.6?

I'm in the middle of replacing the clutch and thought that replacing the rear main seal at the same time is a good idea. I thought it was simply removing the rear seal retaining plate and tapping in the new seal, but that is clearly not the case. Seems very difficult to get the seal and the slinger installed at correct depths without a specific tool.

Thanks,
Kristo

 

[TexasBlownV8]

With the tools, you do NOT remove the rear cover plate.
I do still rent them out. And you are correct, the inner seal and slinger are difficult to put in without messing them up without the tools (been there, done that, had to redo them...then I got the tools!). The set also contains removal hooks, that go in and can be used to pull out the old seals and slinger.
I used them on my 3.8" kellog crankshafts as well as on stock 4.6 crankshafts. If the seal part numbers are the same (except for maybe the first letter/digit), the tools will fit properly.
As far as getting ahold of me without you having enough posts to send a PM, you can text me at fivewontoo 940 twentysixseventyfour.
I require a deposit via paypal as part of the rental, refunded upon return of the tools.

 

[86GT351]

With the tools, you do NOT remove the rear cover plate.
I do still rent them out. And you are correct, the inner seal and slinger are difficult to put in without messing them up without the tools (been there, done that, had to redo them...then I got the tools!). The set also contains removal hooks, that go in and can be used to pull out the old seals and slinger.
I used them on my 3.8" kellog crankshafts as well as on stock 4.6 crankshafts. If the seal part numbers are the same (except for maybe the first letter/digit), the tools will fit properly.
As far as getting ahold of me without you having enough posts to send a PM, you can text me at fivewontoo 940 twentysixseventyfour.
I require a deposit via paypal as part of the rental, refunded upon return of the tools.

If my guys have to do one here, they always remove the plate just for a little extra clearance. Takes 10 minutes including cleaning and re-sealing. Why cut a corner on something so labor intensive once completely back together?

 

[JC SSP]

I had to research this... never seen a specific tool to install a rear main seal, but I definitely would use one just to make sure it's done correctly.

This guy didn't, but not sure if it worked? The video does show how he did it...

ford 4.6 3v rear seal istall - Search Videos

www.bing.com

 

[86GT351]

I had to research this... never seen a specific tool to install a rear main seal, but I definitely would use one just to make sure it's done correctly.

This guy didn't, but not sure if it worked? The video does show how he did it...

ford 4.6 3v rear seal istall - Search Videos

www.bing.com

It can be done without the tool. Just create a better chance of damaging the seal during install.

 

[toeout]

With the tools, you do NOT remove the rear cover plate.
I do still rent them out. And you are correct, the inner seal and slinger are difficult to put in without messing them up without the tools (been there, done that, had to redo them...then I got the tools!). The set also contains removal hooks, that go in and can be used to pull out the old seals and slinger.
I used them on my 3.8" kellog crankshafts as well as on stock 4.6 crankshafts. If the seal part numbers are the same (except for maybe the first letter/digit), the tools will fit properly.
As far as getting ahold of me without you having enough posts to send a PM, you can text me at fivewontoo 940 twentysixseventyfour.
I require a deposit via paypal as part of the rental, refunded upon return of the tools.

Awesome, thank you! I sent you a text.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Awesome, thank you! I sent you a text.

Tools are on the way; let me know how it goes! (We'll continue via text.)

 

[Wolf302]

I think removing the plate seems the easiest. Adds 1-2 extra steps but makes removing/driving in the seat much easier

 

[DieHarder]

Not sure if this is a workaround or better method to install the rear seal. Any ideas?

https://www.cjponyparts.com/rear-main-seal-repair-sleeve-mustang-1983-2014/p/HW4665/?year=2005&gad_source=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3d6256W1hQMVq7haBR2_qQUhEAQYBCABEgIybPD_BwE