Removing 3v manual trans

09gt3v

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Well went to the track today and broke 3rd gear in the trans! So it has to come out... Was wondering if I will have to pull off my long tubes (bbk) to get it out? And also I will be putting a new clutch in was wondering what all there is too bleeding the system when I put it back together and how hard is it to get the hydrolic line of the tranny? Thanks
 

07graygt

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It's pretty easy I pulled mine in 3 hrs on jack stands in my garage. I didn't remove my long tubes (jba). The cluch Line has a little clip that holds it on to the slave. Do lose it or you will have to buy a whole new line. As for bleeding you just pump the pedal and check the fluid. When I pulled mine I took everything apart. Bad synchro. It cost me about 100 buck to replace the synchro. I used pennzoil synchro mesh and added a mgw shift best shifter.

Also to get the top teams bolts I loosen the motor mount bolts and dropped the trans down so it tilted towards the back of the car. Used a bunch of extensions to get up to the bolts. Getting it back it I had to have a second person. We used two floor jacks one in the front and one in the back.
 
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BruceH

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Also to get the top teams bolts I loosen the motor mount bolts and dropped the trans down so it tilted towards the back of the car. Used a bunch of extensions to get up to the bolts. Getting it back it I had to have a second person. We used two floor jacks one in the front and one in the back.

The best way I've found is to take the battery and tray out. Then get both top bolts from the passenger side on top. Much easier.
 

fdjizm

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Broke 3rd gear? how did that happen..
do you mean you smash up your syncro?
 

09gt3v

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Thanks guys, and yeah either 3rd gear syncro or I broke a roll pin... Not sure till I get it out lol shouldn't be bad though it was time to put a clutch in this winter anyways so the timing was about perfect
 

hazzardoustoysjr

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ive broken 3rd and 2nd gear in my old 3650s. and a swivel socket and long extensions make light work of the top to bolts, but if very tight or you just cant get on them take the battery and tray out like bruce h said. and don't loose the little clip on the line!
 

RetroGT2006

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Yeah when i blew my auto and swapped in a manual I did it with my long tubes on. As Bruce H said, remove battery tray for a lil easier access.
 

hunter1022

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If you have a small hand held vacuum pump and an old cap for your master cylinder or rubber stopper you can pull vacuum on the master cylinder and hold it for about a minute then release and pump the clutch it will help a lot removing the air, no bleeder just pump the pedal.
 

redbar0n11

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I'm actually in the middle of my clutch replacement now. I finally got the trans off, after a looooooong battle with it. I couldn't break loose my exhaust nuts at the time, so I just dropped it without. That was a PITA! Gonna soak them and break them tomorrow so it goes back up easier and more straight.

Here's my question though: When I was dropping the trans, it was tilting the engine back a good bit because it was stuck on the guide pins (what took me so freaking long). Well, after the trans dropped, it was still tilted back quite a bit. The exhaust was disconnected and hanging from H-Pipe forward. Is that just heavy enough to pull the engine down? Or is the center of gravity toward the rear of the engine? This is the most major thing I have done with my car, I'm just concerned about it leaning TOO far back and causing an issue with something - like bending/breaking HVAC line or something like that? Any concerns with this? Something I should check on after it's all said and done? Thanks! - sorry for jumping in on this - but figured it might help OP as well vs starting new thread over it.
 

hazzardoustoysjr

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dont worry about it leaning back, when you put the trans back in and bolt up the crossmember it will return to where it should be.
 

NUTCASE

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I did not remove my LTs

also I reached my top 2 bolts from the top. I did not even remove anything. I forget if I tipped the motor foreward or backward though, the awnser should be obviuos when you are in there. a stubby 15mm is useful, but a ratchet wrench would be best I think.

lower the trans slowly and keep attention to your clutch line. don't wanna break that.

drop DS before disconnecting shifter, its just easier that way.

drop trans with x member and DS loop attached (at least thats what I did)

best way to bleed clutch is vaccume bleed. Get a vaccume pump and a sink stopper. 15-20in vaccume, 30 seconds, release, pump clutch, if 3 cycles of this do not work something is broken.
 
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