I have the same Roush suspension package on my 2010....works great for street use. Lowered the car 1" on the front..and 1.25" on the rear. However, with the rear now l.25" lower, the oem LCA's are no longer parallel to the ground, but 1.25" lower at the front of the LCA's..which will make wheel hop worse. ( front end of LCA's goes to body, rear end of LCA's goes to axle). To eliminate wheel hop, you want the LCA's lower at the axle end, hence the BMR lca relocate brackets.
Once lowered, the axle will no longer be centered, but shifted towards the drivers side by 3/8". So to fix all of that, I installed BMR adj PHB + mating brace..and also adj UCA, and also BMR boxed type LCA's (non adjustable LCA's, with poly on each end). And also the BMR LCA re-location brackets.
The BMR lca relocate brackets allow for a 2-3-4" drop. Since you are lowering the rear by 1-1.25", to keep the lca's parallel to the ground, you will need at least a 1-1.25" drop. Your only choices are 2-3-4". I started off in the top hole ( 2" drop)....then 8 months later, went to the middle hole (3" drop). The middle hole is optimum, and works superb.
Note, that the LCA relocate brackets sold by whiteline and FRPP are not adjustable, and are fixed with a 3" drop. Use the BMR unit, it's built like a tank, being 7/16" thick...and use the middle holes. The BMR unit does not have to be welded either, it's bolted in 3 x places. ( the steeda version is only bolted in 1 place..and does have to be welded. Steeda makes good stuff, but their LCA relocate is not one of them). Get the BMR lca's, uca, and lca relocate brackets. The bmr adjustable UCA is not much more than their non adj version. Then if you have to, you have the ability to fine adj the pinion angle of the DS. The BMR uca is also built like a tank, and mine came with 2 holes to play with ( depending on whether you are lowered ..or not). Their latest version comes with 3 x holes.
You will also require and adjustable pan hard bar. For that fix, I used the BMR adj PHB....and BMR mating PHB brace. It's made from DOM..and the adjustable portion is made from chromolly steel. Adj portion is on the pass side, and inboard a bit, so it's very easy to center the axle, just slide in, on ur back, underneath, and tweak till axle is dead centered..... problem solved.
Once both the roush suspension kit is installed, + bmr stuff, it's one helluva lot stiffer vs oem. Oem, mine would nose dive upon braking hard (and rear end would lift like crazy). Hit the gas at a green light, and front end would lift a bunch..and back end would squat. It would also lean in the corners. Now it doesn't do any of that, corner's flat, no squat or nose dive. The roush front and rear sway bars are a lot bigger OD than oem. The roush kit also comes with new, lower jounce stops.
BMR adj PHB is bigger diam than oem. ( oem are also filled with either sand, or lead shot). BMR mating PHB brace is made from rectangular square tubing, also DOM... the oem brace is junk, it's just 3 x sided stamped steel.
OK, having said all that, I ended up also installing the steeda HD adjustable front strut mounts. That allows for +/- 1 deg of camber adj. Much simpler to install that at the same time as the roush suspension kit.....instead of after the fact...like I ended up doing. Then tweaked the steeda hd mounts for -1.4 deg of camber on both fronts. ( they will easily adj to more than that). Oem, they are not adj, and my drivers side was -1.4.....and pass side was -1.1 at least get em both the same. Don't cheap out using camber bolts, they are fubar at best.
