Saleen SC questions

donnyonee

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ok looks like nobody wants my overpriced 06 so i might as well jump on the straight away thing.
i just ordered a new set of racemasters (325s) and im waiting for the shaker to come out. hope they get it smog legal. right now im at 10# and i think 12 is about all the saleens are good for..?
what is the going price for the forged internals. crank rods pistons oil pump and rings bearings gaskets?
what about some head work?
a/my stock block is ok?
what if anything else?
im pretty much a wrenchhead, is anybody doing the work themselves?
adam has me at 481 whp and i think i already have most of the bolt ons . it must be getting close to the launch time.
donny
 

tmcolegr

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Just FYI - I regularly see 13 - 14 psi with my Saleen running the OEM C/S pulley.
 

psfracer

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ok looks like nobody wants my overpriced 06 so i might as well jump on the straight away thing.
i just ordered a new set of racemasters (325s) and im waiting for the shaker to come out. hope they get it smog legal. right now im at 10# and i think 12 is about all the saleens are good for..?
what is the going price for the forged internals. crank rods pistons oil pump and rings bearings gaskets?
what about some head work?
a/my stock block is ok?
what if anything else?
im pretty much a wrenchhead, is anybody doing the work themselves?
adam has me at 481 whp and i think i already have most of the bolt ons . it must be getting close to the launch time.
donny

Stock block is fine. Stock crank should be fine, as I have not heard of any crankshaft failures yet---although a cobra crank could be cheap insurance. I chose a cobra crank for peace of mind.

A saleen at 14psi will be enough to hang with the rest of us at the track. I would be concerned about your rear suspension. What do you have back there?

For the heads I would go with some Manley intake and exhaust valves. As far as the porting is concerned, if you have the money then why not---but its definitely not required in order to run 10's. I know of a few cars that run 10's with stock heads and stock cams.
 

gloryboy

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ok looks like nobody wants my overpriced 06 so i might as well jump on the straight away thing.
i just ordered a new set of racemasters (325s) and im waiting for the shaker to come out. hope they get it smog legal. right now im at 10# and i think 12 is about all the saleens are good for..?
what is the going price for the forged internals. crank rods pistons oil pump and rings bearings gaskets?
what about some head work?
a/my stock block is ok?
what if anything else?
im pretty much a wrenchhead, is anybody doing the work themselves?
adam has me at 481 whp and i think i already have most of the bolt ons . it must be getting close to the launch time.
donny

I'm in your exact shoes........481 rwhp at 10 lbs on stock bottom end. I have an 8 rib kit, 3.0 s/c pulley and 18% oc pulley just waiting around.....i know this stuff will blow the stock motor. The motor only has 6000 miles on it. I was also wondering if i could just swap rotating assemblies, or would it be neccessary to have the block bored and have someone build me a short block. Also, i know the sc will generate over 15 lbs of boost, but will it be able to draw enough air through that small intake to make the power you should see with that much boost?
 

ZmanM3

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I think Adam is working on an intake for the Saleen S/C too.
 

gloryboy

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I hope he can come up with something, but the bottle neck seems to be the sc case in the back where the intake hooks up......When you pull the intake off, the back of the case where the intake air enters seems to be the narrowest part of the intake stream.
 

tmcolegr

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I hope he can come up with something, but the bottle neck seems to be the sc case in the back where the intake hooks up......When you pull the intake off, the back of the case where the intake air enters seems to be the narrowest part of the intake stream.
.
+1
 
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tmcolegr

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Hey tmcolegr, that video really helps you see the restriction...

JMO -
I believe this is the reason you will not see more than about 15 psi with the Saleen Series VI S/C no matter how fast you spin the rotors. Since this is part of the main S/C case, which is already right up against the firewall, I don't see any way of increasing the efficiency of the Saleen. Still good for 550 - 600 RWHP though.

Keep in mind when Saleen originally released this S/C it was intended to produce 4 psi.

http://ywnv.vidiac.com/video/28852e03-172e-45c6-a402-99a40187c271.htm
 
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hotairgypsy

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that is a great video showing the construction of the blower...i know my blower has had work done to it from GIJoe too help the flow i guess but no idea what kind of gain above stock
 

gloryboy

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I little positive pressure through the intake should help, I wonder if a 76mm helion turbo kit would fit on a saleen sc'd motor.......:onfire:
 

donnyonee

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ok so the stock crank should be good for a couple hunderd hp more.
so actually just rods and pistons with some head work.

i recently just turned 9000 miles w/ 6 being on the sc.

saleen and jdm are working on a new shaker for the saleen sc. replaces the complete top with a very short air path, lgr tb, filter and fresh air scoop. looks to be worthwhile for hp gains. looks trick, have you seen it?

550 -600 rwhp would be nice.

i have the tokico spec ds, pro springs, bmr adj pan bar and brace, bmr lower control arms, bmr adj upca and mount and the stock 355 posi with the super additive:) ADS and the df clutch.
 

gloryboy

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Definitely get a forged rotating assembly. Forged crank, rods, pistons...Stock block is fine....stock heads are fine.... ported and polished heads are expensive but will get you decent gains. Livernois prob has the best heads out there right now.
 

hotairgypsy

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I have wonder if you can just pull out the crank, pistons, and rod from the bottom without taking out the engine..i am thinking the cross member is in the way and too hard to pop the pistons back in
 

Mick

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I was not going to do outside mods. But since I have a dimple in the hood from the engine torque before I had the lowering motor mounts installed, the Saleen Shaker has my full attention. Waiting to hear from JDM.
 

Darth Stang

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" I have wonder if you can just pull out the crank, pistons, and rod from the bottom without taking out the engine..i am thinking the cross member is in the way and too hard to pop the pistons back in"


Ummmm...definitely NO!! :shock:

You will have to remove the engine to do anything with the rotating assembly. I've said this before, several reputable shops have thrown out quotes in the $6-8K range to do a bottom end. That almost seems regardless of swapping a shortblock or building our blocks, because the same prep work needs to be done on the blocks. The advantage to using a TEKSID or other swapped block is less downtime. From my research, it should be a week or two to get everything done to your block if there's a good machine shop available that can work you in, and from reading things from Larry_H and others, unless you build engines, this really isn't a DIY project. It's scary to think it, but many of us will have put $15K into these cars with just a S/C and bottom end, which is the bare minimum necessary to ensure long performance life and to get what we want out of it. That just turned my $30K GT Vert into a $45K "non-GT500" Vert. Frickin sick...good thing i'm keeping it for the rest of my life!:victory:

Personally, I find things like grinding journals, magnafluxing, and deck honing to be akin to black magic best practiced only by those who know it.

-Darth
 

PenguinGT

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$6-8k for the labor on a bulletproof bottom end?

Well, that certainly helped me decide the fate of my eventual buildup... For a car I drive maybe once every 2 months in the winter/fall and twice a week in the summer, it's not worth $15k to me for 500+ rwhp.

The smaller Whipple is looking better to me every day. I can live with upper 300s to the wheels knowing that I'm not gambling on borrowed time.
 

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